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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 07:17 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by Mar10_562
really ? Bevause that scrape seems to have been the water pump due to the amount of plau it had. Before i changed the water pump, it made a scraping/rattling noise. I changed the water pump and then no more noise.
You're more than likely hearing the bad bearings inside the water pump. When bearings go out, you'll have a lot of wobble and play in it, but it's not going to give you forward/backward movement (especially not enough for the pump to move back into the cylinder wall).
If a power steering pump or SMOG pump were to be going bad, you'd hear that rattling/scraping, too.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 10:44 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by Greg Rogers
Good job so far stay at it!
thanks
Im going to try and move her on her own power today
 
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 05:21 PM
  #78  
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And she lives !!!!!! Shes ugly. Shes old. Shes beat up. But she lives !
i was able to drive down the block and back and it was smoother than I thought !
 
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 05:26 PM
  #79  
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Now , i tigged a little too much on the heater core line amd now it leaks, is there a plug i can use to stop the antifreeze from circulating towards the heater core , or is it something that must be operational for the entire cooling system to work ?
 
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 05:43 PM
  #80  
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Get a 3/4" barbed coupler and connect the hoses together.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 06:32 PM
  #81  
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Good for you!

You can bypass the heater circuit entirely temporarily with no ill effects to the engine. A hose off the thermo
 
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Old Mar 29, 2018 | 11:55 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by Mar10_562
Question is this a sign of bad things to come or just a really bad indicator of a bad water pump.
It might be a sign of why it was parked. Then perhaps someone robbed the voltage regulator off of it?

So do the brakes work?

I've used a 1/2" copper 90º elbow fitting to loop my heater hoses while my heater box was out of the truck. If you can find one that is "street" on both ends, it might fit inside the hose a little more easily.

Way to go on waking that sleeping giant!
 
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 01:17 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by BaronVonAutomatc
Get a 3/4" barbed coupler and connect the hoses together.
Got it thanks
 
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 01:19 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by The Frenchtown Flyer
Good for you!

You can bypass the heater circuit entirely temporarily with no ill effects to the engine. A hose off the thermo
i just ended up getting another 5/8 hose and loopong both ends together and snipping the lines off at the heater core.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 01:21 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by meangreen92
It might be a sign of why it was parked. Then perhaps someone robbed the voltage regulator off of it?

So do the brakes work?

I've used a 1/2" copper 90º elbow fitting to loop my heater hoses while my heater box was out of the truck. If you can find one that is "street" on both ends, it might fit inside the hose a little more easily.

Way to go on waking that sleeping giant!
i had a cousin who claimed who could get it running but he isnt the best of people. He may have taken somethings when we said we didnt want him working on the truck.

Thanks man !!! It felt good haha
 
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 01:26 AM
  #86  
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So it looks like my victory was short lived. I tried starting the truck again and nothing. It turns over but nothing. I tried hooking up an auxilary fuel tank right before the mechanical fuel pump, which worked when i first started with the truck, and nothing. My younger brother then offered to clean the fuel lines and carburator. So he cleaned the fuel lines with wd-40 and some reallh old carburator cleaner that has been sittkng for a couple of years too. He said that then he hooked it up and cranked it right away but nothing.

So first , what gives to it suddenly not wantkng to turn on when it did the night before ?

second , was there damage by using carburator cleaner anf WD40 im the fuel lines ? Fingers crossed.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 10:52 AM
  #87  
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SPARK
FUEL
COMPRESSION
Make sure you still have these three essentials. It is likely you are not seeing one of these three.
The cleaner may have loosened some junk that lodged in the wrong passages in the carb.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 11:23 AM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by The Frenchtown Flyer
SPARK
FUEL
COMPRESSION
Make sure you still have these three essentials. It is likely you are not seeing one of these three.
The cleaner may have loosened some junk that lodged in the wrong passages in the carb.
got it. Will do.
Also, before i could see the gas flow into this fuel filter and now i get squat. Can it also mean my mechanical fuel pump is out ?
 
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 12:48 PM
  #89  
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So how difficult is it to rebuild a carburetor? I think that might be it. I just tried the compression check and the lowest was 140. Im assumimg its due the MMO i poured in the first time around. Im abkut to test for spark but pulling them out and grounding them out.
ankther thing i noticed is that the battery gets drained a lot faster. Only a couple of cranks and ita almosy drained. Anybody know whats up with that?
 
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 01:42 PM
  #90  
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Carburetor isn't too awful difficult, but requires your full attention to small details. The kits come with a diagram, and there is some decent info out there on these 1V carbs, on the internet and youtube videos as well.

Battery might be draining faster because it isn't being charged all the way back up. I don't own a battery charger, so in your situation, I'd throw the battery into my daily driver, and see if it comes back to a fuller charge.
 
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