Alright. Im about to check if my soarkolugs are fouled and if they creatr spark. If there isnt a proboem with the spark aspect , then the carburator rebuild kit is next

 

Because this is how carb looms like

 

Trickle a few spoonsful of gasoline into the carb along with maybe a squirt of starter fluid and see if it starts and runs momentarily.

 

I tried that and nothing. The pressure from thr mechanical fuel pump comes and gos. So im confused. I dont see how using the truck up cause so mucb problems haha

 

So I think i have another electrical problem. And i think its the ignition coil.

first i swapped out the plugs for good meaurr and nothing, thinking i damaged it through flooding the engine.

i then measured the spark plug wires and they measured between 7k ohms to 15k ohms so i figured those were good.

i then checked the wiring order for the distributor and spark plug wires and they were weird. They were not in the order that the manual states. The distributor cap marks the first plug for the first sparkplug but the way the distributor sits , the lay out on the distributor does not match the lay out in the manual. But i figured since it worked id leave it alone and check for a spark by grounding the body of the sparkplug.

so i did and i got nothing. I measured the terminals that arrive at the ignition coil and it gets in between 3 volts and 4 volts.

So thats how i arrived at the ignition coil being bad. Is the logic i used good or did i miss something ? Or any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance

 

That's how it works. They are ornery after their long nap. A new fuel pump isn't a bad plan just on GP. Keep the old one as a spare. Steady fuel supply in both pressure and volume at all times, under all conditions, is very important. They get erratic, it will make trying to tune the carburetor forever a moving target. The carburetor must be rebuilt after sitting for so long. The carburetor must be rebuilt after sitting for so long. Did I mention the carburetor has to be rebuilt?

Remember anything made of rubber on that truck is almost certainly shot, from brake hose to fuel hose, door jambs to transmission mounts etc etc. Everything. Everything rots from the inside where it can't be seen.

That glass fuel filter in the pic is a well known fire hazard. They look nice, but. Make sure you have a fire extinguisher ready and available with the truck at all times when first messing with vintage carburetors and old fuel hoses and the rest of it. Trust me.

You are charging the battery back up with a charger right? Remember what I wrote three pages ago? This takes all night when set on low current. While it's possible to overcharge a battery it takes a special effort. 99% of the time batteries get tortured to death, along with starters, starter relays, cables, alternators, etc.

The alternator is not designed to, nor will not be able to, re-charge a dead or even depleted battery, and may well be ruined trying. Keep it charged up and don't roast the starter/solenoid during your troubleshooting.

 

Got it. I just bought a new fuel filter and will install later on tonight. It turns out the reason i had no spark was the ignition coil went bad. Biught and it starts right up with an auxilary tank connected right to the mechanical fuel pump.

 

Now the trucm wont start with its own tank. I dropped it because the guys at autozone sais it had an electric pump in the tank and i dropped and didnt see one. So what gives ? Can it be the tank selector since it has two tanks ? Or can it be that tje mechanical pump isnt strong enough anymore

 

Could be. Could be too the hard line is clogged. There may be some short sections of rubber hose that have slight air leaks now. Pickup tube in tank could be corroded or full of sediment as well as the tank itself.

Have you took a peek inside the fuel tank? I'd try to do that before anything. If the tank is clean, you could try backflushing the fuel line into the tank with shop air, just to be sure. Don't get too crazy, just 20 psi. or so, something like that. Replace any and all rubber fuel hose.

 

So I think i made some progress today. I hooked up the auxilary tank at each break in the fuel line. I hooked up the tank to the hard line right before the tank and I was able to get fuel into the engine. So i dropped the tank and removed the hanger inside and it was so correded/rusted. On inspection, there was no fuel tank in the tank so i just removed the hanger, and cleaned it. I was able to get gas flowing from the bottom of the floater to the top wjere tje fuel gets pulled out of. I did dislodge some trash so I put the hooked the tank back up, withoit strapping up, and still nothing. I then thought that maybe there was not enough fuel in the tank to begin with and i noticed it leaked gas while I poured. Im assuming that this leak causes enough loss in pressure to redice the amount of fuel that gets to the engine. Is my resoning right ?

and the tank was filthy.

 

I apologize for my spelling , phones good for text messages but not for paragraphs haha.

 

No I understand. Yeah, no don't hook up a dirty tank if you can help it. Keep that crap out of the lines, pump, and carb. Nothing but trouble. It is sludge or varnish, sediment and will really screw things up. Old fuel will coat intake valve stems and turn to glue. Bad stuff happens.

 

Damn. Buying a new fuel tank is out of the wuestion right now. Can i empty the tank and go at it with a power washer ? Can the rusted floater ne the cause of the problem ?
Or is it the leak at the top of the gas cap ? The leak is where the gas cap and gas tank inlet hose meet.

 

Tanks can definitely be cleaned internally. Kind of a pita though. If financials are an issue though then go for it. I would recommend buying new hoses though. Buy fuel rated hose, radiator hose is maybe the right size so it is tempting but it won't hold up to gasoline.

Different ways to go about cleaning the fuel tank out. Usually involve installing nuts & bolts, maybe short lengths of chain, even clean rocks or marbles, inside the tank and strong solvents or paint thinner maybe. Spin or roll the tank and let them go to work removing the crud. I read once where a guy tied the tank to a cement mixer and spun the tank that way, you get the idea. Don't have to replace anything fuel related necessarily, but it does have to be clean.

 

Somebody posted a pic of a tank fastened to his tractor's tire with the rear of the tractor jacked up and running. I thought that was an ingenious solution to rotating/tumbling the tank, albeit not without risk if left unattended.