When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Been a while, but finally got back to this. Worked like a charm!
(This worked for me, but I assume no responsibility if it goes wrong for you!)
1) I pulled the overhead console off and disconnected the connector to the upfitters.
2) Pulled the insulation back and cut the Green/Orange (CBP22) and the Green/Red (SB104) wires.
3) Snip snip...no going back now.
4) Used a butt connector to join the Green/Red wire (always hot if you've moved the 5A fuse under the hood to the F4C position) from the harness to the two loose ends from the connector. Make sure to tape off the Green/Orange loose wire to avoid shorting out the switched wire from the BCM.
5) Reassemble and now your upfitters are hot all the time!
Cheers!
so you connected the switch side of the green orange, AND the green red to just the incoming green red wire? then cap off the incoming green orange?
Just be careful to not go over 40amps total or you could short something out, blow the fuse, etc.
The green/red wire coming to the switches is protected by the 5A fuse that you move in the relay box to enable upfitters 5 and 6 to be hot all the time. All of the relays draw their power from a separate source, and all maintain their original ratings (25A or 40A)
Total load shouldn't matter as long as you respect the load on each of the relays. Check out the wiring diagram attached!
Here is a video of an upfitter installation I found on another forum if this helps anyone. i am getting ready to do this modification to my 2019 F250 STX .
So before I i want to make sure I'm ordering / have everything I need.
1. HC3Z14A303F
2. HC3Z15A404A
3. The correct overhead console with switches (still figuring this out)
I have this connector
Do i have everything covered?
Hey Alaskan_Warbird - what lights did you toss in the grill there? I'm looking to do the same thing!
Rough Country 8" light bars with the specific Lariat brackets. Full details here. I really like them. Used a single upfitter for both. I also recently removed the front license plate and had a 19" bar installed, recessed into that opening. Looks amazing and has great light output with all 3 bars. Pics below.
excellent! thank you for the info. Unfortunately I have to leave the license plate for now... but looking at a new bumper to help with both.
thanks again!
Originally Posted by Alaskan_Warbird
Rough Country 8" light bars with the specific Lariat brackets. Full details here. I really like them. Used a single upfitter for both. I also recently removed the front license plate and had a 19" bar installed, recessed into that opening. Looks amazing and has great light output with all 3 bars. Pics below.
Thank you all for all of the information and detailed instruction/ photos for installing the factory switches! I have one question, where did you guys order your consoles? Every place ive looked i can not find the one i need (HC3Z-28519A58-JAT) for less then 470. Did the prices just increase that much?
I have read this thread in depth at least twice, and then gone back and re-read some parts. Thank you to everyone who has provided some sort of insight or another about the switch install. I AM EXCITED TO DO IT. @1956Fatfenders, your stuff is amazing!
Question: I have an '18 350 Lariat. My Ford dealer says that I (or they) cannot install the switches because some computer update would need to be done that they can't do. I haven't looked for the magic connector in the A pillar yet, but if i have it, is safe to assume i can do the mod or is the dealer right?
TIA...
UPDATE: I HAVE THE CONNECTOR!!!! So does this mean I can do it on my 2018?
I just did it in my 2019 f350. No computer update required. Main difference I found from reading the forums and watching the youtube video was updated part numbers. For my camel interior, there were 3 "updated" part numbers for the overhead panel from the one I found in the forum. It was difficult and very expensive to find the original part number since it was discontinued. Once I figured out the current part number, I was able to find it cheaper and more readily available. I found identical trucks to mine that had the upfitter switches and took those VIN numbers into my local dealer. They could look up the current panel installed in the similar trucks with the switches.
After having both overhead panels to compare, I learned the only thing we really need is the perforated panel that goes around the switches, and the switches themselves. Our "non-switch" panel has everything needed to install the switches, and the small cover surrounding the switches can be popped out. If only ford would sell the small perforated plastic piece around the switches, we wouldn't need to replace the entire overhead panel.
I did the interior install before the fuse box and wires in the engine compartment. Just to save you the confusion, only switches 1-4 will light up until all the under hood wiring is installed. Then 5 and 6 will illuminate correctly.
As Flatfender mentioned it in his thread, loosing the push-in connectors is helpful before running the under hood wires. Some of them needed to be slide up or down the harness. Hardest part was figuring out where the harness runs from the front right corner back over the fender well. Use lots of light to find the holes, and removing the wheel well liner was a must. I had to redo mine a few times to finally get it right. The rest was pretty easy.
My total cost for the three parts was $620 purchased on line. Make sure you compare shipping prices along with part cost. Some have good price but very high shipping. If the truck came with the switches, it was $160 option, so I spent an additional $460. But to save $10k on the truck, it was worth doing the upfitters as an after purchase project.
Last edited by NCMike; Feb 29, 2020 at 09:19 AM.
Reason: clarity
I just did it in my 2019 f350. No computer update required. Main difference I found from reading the forums and watching the youtube video was updated part numbers. For my camel interior, there were 3 "updated" part numbers for the overhead panel from the one I found in the forum.
NCMike,
Aside from the different part numbers and updated console, did you find that the part numbers for the to wire harnesses were the same as the ones mentioned in this thread? Or were those updated part numbers as well? I have looked them up and they seem like they would still be the right ones. Do you have the part numbers that you used?
Below are the parts and location from which I ordered. I have an f350 lariat ultimate package in camel color interior with the electric slider rear window, sun roof, and motion sensors in the overhead panel.
For the overhead console, the letters past the last dash are what signify the different "generations" of panels. From what I could tell, the original panel ended in -LD. The next gen ended in -LAW. The last I found, and I ordered, ended in -LBN (see below).
I only found one option for the assembly from the overhead panel to A-pillar area (HC3Z-15A404-A)
For the Main Harness and Fuse Box assembly, I found four versions. HC3Z-14A303-E, -or -F, or -H. The one I ordered and I think the current version is KC3Z-14A303-BA.
I have no idea why they've changes part numbers so often.
This shipment includes the following items: Item #DescriptionQty
HC3Z-28519A58-LBN Console Assembly - Overhead 1
HC3Z-15A404-A Wire Assembly 1
KC3Z-14A303-BA Wire Assembly 1
Thank you for your business and we look forward to serving you in the future!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
. 
