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I'll try to answer these questions in order, without trying to complicate things.
"My only concern now is that the parts I was quoted is only for the overheard console and all the pieces that go in there. I'm sure he found the right console I need cause he asked all the right questions but I don't think the list is complete."
The console is ordered as a complete unit, not by the parts that are in it (maybe I'm misinterpreting what you're saying)...UNLESS, your dealer has no clue what the complete console's part number is. Best route is to find a truck that already has the options you have PLUS the Upfitters, in the correct interior color. Then use THAT truck's VIN number to search parts.
"If I understand things correctly, I also need 1 (or 2) wiring harnesses? The 1 for inside the cab, from overhead console down the A pillar, then I'd need the 1 for routing under the truck and in the engine compartment? And also a relay/fuse box?"
You need two harnesses.
#1 The harness for under the hood. It connects at the connector that is hidden behind your left inner fender well, INCLUDES the fuse/relay box, and is routed to the positive terminal located in the right side fuse box's unused terminal stud. Part number HC3Z-14A303-F. I paid about $113. See post #21 for picture.
#2 The harness that connects your NEW overhead console to the A-pillar connector. The cable ordered for my console was part # HC3Z-15A404-A. Please be aware my console has the rear slider switch, alarm sensors and Upfitters. The harness for trucks with the sunroof and/or other options, MAY or MAY NOT be the same part number. No way for me to know that. That's why its helpful to use a VIN from a comparably equipped truck to make sure your harness is correct.
"Did you include a full parts list in this thread somewhere? I plan to reread every single post to look for it but if it's not here and you or one of the other guys have the complete parts list, I'd really appreciate it!"
My parts list is as follows, but other than the middle part (under hood fuse/relay box/harness) , your part numbers may vary from what I ordered and installed, due to options or interior color. My parts were ordered from Levittown Ford, in Hicksville, NY.:
I just ordered the parts and I've decided to do the install myself. Will take some pics and update before/after. Will probably be 2-3 weeks before I get 'er done.
Parts came in. I'm confused as to what wire plugs into the connector in the A pillar? I had thought the wire pictured here would be the one to route from the new console over to the connector in the A pillar but it's obviously not long enough to go from new console all the way down the A pillar...? If I open the package, I can't return it.
Not sure if that's the correct part or not. The correct parts are: HC3Z-28519A58-JE Console Assembly - Overhead $206.98 HC3Z-14A303-F Wire Assembly $112.78 HC3Z-15A404-A Wire Assembly $13.95
The new wire will the big out in the a pillar connection, The others are smaller molex and one that looks like disk connector (it isn't).
I had about 6-10 inches of sack after hooking it up.
So, the number at the top of your package is not the right part number. You should have: HC3Z-15A404-A Wire Assembly $13.95
Thanks. When I ordered I specifically asked for part HC3Z-15A404-A. He said for my truck, the system auto-changed it to the -C. Was the -A wire that you got long enough to go all the way from the new upfitter switches, across the top of the ceiling, and down the A pillar to the connector at the base of that pillar?
*edit* I'm going to be taking apart the inside of truck just a bit to see if there is an unused wire already nestled up in the ceiling that goes to the upfitter console.
Yes, the wire was long enough. Seem odd that you'd have a different part than what most everyone else is using.
*sigh* I didn't feel like arguing with the computer nor the parts guy. This sometimes happens when you let technology think for you. It's only ~$15. I'll just have them order me the -A wire and let you guys know what I find. We're picking up a new camper this weekend and I may not get the install done for a couple of weeks.
I already have upfitter switches - but just peeking at this thread out of curiosity. Got to say thanks to 1956FatFenders. Great write up. You are going to help a lot of folks. rep given!
I already have upfitter switches - but just peeking at this thread out of curiosity. Got to say thanks to 1956FatFenders. Great write up. You are going to help a lot of folks. rep given!
Thanks for the reps. I've gained so much info and crossed paths with so many great people on this forum, its my way of paying it forward. I enjoy documenting processes with pictures, and then writing up the step-by-step process so anyone looking at it can say to themselves, "Hey, I CAN do that!"
Ok guys, I purchased a 2018 F350 this past Friday and have been stewing about this the last two days after hearing it's not possible 500 different ways. It irks me that after all my research and looking, I didn't get a truck with the upfitter switches! And, yes, the part about sitting back drinking a beer wondering why I didn't as I install something is still a dream thus far.
So, I have read the 5 pages in this post and many others out there and while reading, gone to my truck 50 different times looking for the items in the pics. 1956Fatfenders did an awesome job documenting the process! Hat tip to you sir!
Going back a bit to his #21 post and the first pic behind the driver fender, I have looked in my truck for that connector for the upfitter fuse box and it is simply not there. I have followed all of the harnesses at that point even up under the fender but there isn't a connector.
Soooooo...my question is, was this a change from 17 to 18, or is this connector burred at a point I haven't accessed?
Everyone I have talked to tells me that it is NOT possible to retrofit these switches in my 2018. I see you guys doing it so...am I a nut job, not holding my tongue right or did they really change this to the point that if it was not ordered from the factory it won't have the infrastructure to adapt like you guys are doing on a 17?
Drivers fender area 1
Drivers fender area 2
I'm not seeing anything like 1956Fatfenders pic in post 21. Or am I missing something?
I appreciate all the help, your work and the fact that you are sharing your trials and tribulations!
I don't see it in your pictures either but the quick sanity check I did on mine was to take apart the A pillar (driver's side), like in post #33. Pull the stuffing, if you find that connector down in there, you should have the connector in the wheel well. If you don't have it, then stop - your truck is not setup for this. I do hope you have it! While my truck was purchased off the lot, I do wonder ever day why someone wouldn't have clicked the upfitter option for only $165!!
I just got the proper harness for inside the cab (pic below). They sent me the wrong one initially.
Alaskan Warbird, couple of unrelated questions...does your gas dually have the 3" receiver hitch or the 2.5? Also, does your plate (RTFM) really mean "read the ford manual?"
Going back a bit to his #21 post and the first pic behind the driver fender, I have looked in my truck for that connector for the upfitter fuse box and it is simply not there. I have followed all of the harnesses at that point even up under the fender but there isn't a connector.
Drivers fender area 2
I'm not seeing anything like 1956Fatfenders pic in post 21. Or am I missing something?
I appreciate all the help, your work and the fact that you are sharing your trials and tribulations!
Respectfully,
Sean
Unless I'm mis-reading your post, based on the pictures you've added, you're looking for the hidden inner fender connector in the wrong spot. IF you have it, the connector can only be found by removing the left front, inner fender liner. Post 36 will walk you through it. This is the connector on my truck as viewed from behind the inner fender liner. It was zip-tied to the harness. I cut the zip tie and fed it up near the connectors in your picture "Drivers fender area 2".
The much quicker way to determine if you have the necessary hidden connector is as Alaskan_Warbird suggested, is to look at post 33. You only need to remove the two bolts securing the pull handle on the driver's side. If the grey connector is behind the white stuffing at the bottom of the a-pillar, you're good to go.