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2017 upfitter switches

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Old Jan 12, 2018 | 02:00 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Stroking2017
Also I'm just a little confused on the plug in the A pillar? Am I missing how to plug in that connector and run it to the new console?

I have the Lariat Value Trim with power sliding back glass.

Thank you Gentleman!
See Post #33 above. Pretty much spells everything out, with pictures. I too have the Lariat with Power Rear Window.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2018 | 05:35 PM
  #47  
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Success! Many thanks to FatFenders for part numbers and the pictures. I did not go to the extent of following an OEM install but I left enough blood in the wiring looms to call it mine. A pox on Ford for not including this as a standard item but, once again, FTE proved in can be done.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2018 | 12:37 AM
  #48  
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Thank you, everyone, for the effort you have put into this and other threads relating the upfitter install. I am subscribed and 100% interested in this project. If I'm honest, this install scares the crap out of me!
 
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Old Feb 5, 2018 | 08:41 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Central FL Mike
Thank you, everyone, for the effort you have put into this and other threads relating the upfitter install. I am subscribed and 100% interested in this project. If I'm honest, this install scares the crap out of me!
Nothing to be scared of. It's essentially plug and play but...it's not a 20 minute job either. You have some of the best resources here on the forum.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2018 | 09:36 AM
  #50  
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Great writeup, 1956 Fatfenders. Reps sent! I had the luxury of buying a truck already so equipped but this is interesting to see how it all goes together. As for why all trucks don't come this way, there are reasons. Frankly, I've had upfitters on my 2012, added them on my 2016, ordered them on my 2017, and have them on my 2018 Raptor. The only thing I've ever used them for prior to this truck is a high idle switch on my 2016 diesel. Adding them to the 2016 truck was a piece of cake and cost $125 in parts and took 20 minutes of labor. So my point is that many people will never have use for them. In all reality, $165 is a bargain for this option. There is a fair amount of copper wiring in the harnesses, plus the cost of the switches, and relay/fuse box.

One other note, not sure if its been discussed: Typically ordering this option bumps up your alternator. The 6 switches have the ability to run 4x @ 25A and 2x @ 40A for up to 180A simultaneously. That is a lot of amperage! If your truck is a diesel and has the supplemental cabin heater (Standard in cold climates), that heater runs @150A! Combine the two and you have 330A of draw, which does not take into account all the truck's usual draws. So if you're just adding light bars or strobes, etc...no problem. But keep total amperage in mind.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2018 | 05:19 PM
  #51  
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Upfitter ?

Can a guy not add the console and add a switch block like the one over on f 150 forum and then run the wiring from a pillar to the switch block
and do the under hood wiring
prolly just cut plug off a pillar harness and wire the leads straight to the switches
or is there a module in the upfitter style console
 
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 10:59 PM
  #52  
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So if I don't have the connector at the drivers side "A" pillar I'm out of luck?
 
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 11:28 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by tankerboy
So if I don't have the connector at the drivers side "A" pillar I'm out of luck?
I would have to think so. I've only heard of this process being added to those with the a-pillar connector. With considerable work on your part by making some sort of custom cable, I would supposed one could "make it work", but that is outside of what I can begin to help with. The connectors are Molex, and even if you figure out which ones you need, the crimper is about $345. Not worth the time or headache.

I think your truck would be better off with something aftermarket.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2018 | 06:44 PM
  #54  
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1956FatFenders - I took apart my A pillar and have the connector! Pic of it below, as well as what my current console looks like. I've also included a PDF quote from my dealer's parts dept. (page 2 has a pic of the entire assembly). The dealer has been great, both the parts dept. and the service dept. The service dept. sent a separate quote of roughly 3 hours for them to do the install if the connector is in the pillar.

Would you mind taking a look at the quote below and let me know if it's missing anything? Is there anything else I should check for before starting this myself or having them do it? I can't be w/o my truck for long at all. Thanks again for this AWESOME thread. Your pics and the procedure are invaluable.



 
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Old Mar 31, 2018 | 11:57 PM
  #55  
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The only thing I see in your attachment is the console price. Not sure if you intended more.

TASCA has the console for just under $224, but with shipping to AK, your dealer price is likely fair. There is no way for me to know if your console PT# is correct, nor do I know if your inside harness is different as I see you have the moon roof.

The only part that I can be fairly confident as being the same, would be the Upfitter fuse box harness.

From my invoice:
HC3Z-14A303-F Wire Assembly $112.78
 
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Old Apr 1, 2018 | 12:42 AM
  #56  
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Thank you!
 
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Old Apr 1, 2018 | 08:12 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Alaskan_Warbird
Thank you!
Since you've seen the pictures, you know the routing of the harness. Up to you to decide if you want to, or have time to tackle it yourself. Its not hard, just time consuming, and it does help to have that extra set of hands to help control the snake of a harness, as it gets routes under the radiator. 3 hours sounds right. Took me longer only because I had no clue where the main harness routed, and was stopping to take pictures every step of the way. There was some satisfaction when I was done, and all worked!!!

I would ask them 1) have the retrofitted Upfitters before, and 2) do they know the factory routing of the harness?

If they're doing it, it should be under warranty. I'd personally, want to be assured its routed like the factory, and not just wire tied in place because they didn't know where all the push pins go or where the cable clamps are located. If they're not 100% sure, and you're having them do the work, show them the pictures. It'll save them time, and possibly you some money.

Good luck! Its great you have a dealer willing to go the extra mile.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2018 | 08:39 AM
  #58  
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First---A thanks to all of those whom have been a part of solving this. I wish I would have cared more about the up fitter switches when I bought my truck....nothing beats OEM integration.

I found the following as an alternative:
Switch-Pros

used with this mount:
https://fordraptorlights.com/product...2017-f250-f350

I have no idea how the pricing or installation would pan out in comparison, but I do like the graphics for each individual switch. Almost gives you ideas of things you think you need, haha. Only downside that I can see is that you lose your sunglass compartment, but half of mine don't fit in there anyhow. Plus with my full tint job, I rarely need to don my shades....
 
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Old Apr 1, 2018 | 11:06 AM
  #59  
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From: Fairbanks, AK
Originally Posted by 1956Fatfenders
Since you've seen the pictures, you know the routing of the harness. Up to you to decide if you want to, or have time to tackle it yourself. Its not hard, just time consuming, and it does help to have that extra set of hands to help control the snake of a harness, as it gets routes under the radiator. 3 hours sounds right. Took me longer only because I had no clue where the main harness routed, and was stopping to take pictures every step of the way. There was some satisfaction when I was done, and all worked!!!

I would ask them 1) have the retrofitted Upfitters before, and 2) do they know the factory routing of the harness?

If they're doing it, it should be under warranty. I'd personally, want to be assured its routed like the factory, and not just wire tied in place because they didn't know where all the push pins go or where the cable clamps are located. If they're not 100% sure, and you're having them do the work, show them the pictures. It'll save them time, and possibly you some money.

Good luck! Its great you have a dealer willing to go the extra mile.
I actually sent the service manager the link to this thread and he had one of his guys look at it, too. He praised your work as well and was very up front with me about the fact that their work would be warrantied for 2 years but it wouldn't be warrantied like if it came from the factory. He even told me it'd be good if I could check for the connector in the A pillar as you noted in post #33. I'm super appreciative of my dealer. We only have the one and some people like to complain, but they've always taken great care of me. I've purchased 3 vehicles from them and will likely purchase a couple more before retirement age.

My only concern now is that the parts I was quoted is only for the overheard console and all the pieces that go in there. I'm sure he found the right console I need cause he asked all the right questions but I don't think the list is complete. If I understand things correctly, I also need 1 (or 2) wiring harnesses? The 1 for inside the cab, from overhead console down the A pillar, then I'd need the 1 for routing under the truck and in the engine compartment? And also a relay/fuse box?

Did you include a full parts list in this thread somewhere? I plan to reread every single post to look for it but if it's not here and you or one of the other guys have the complete parts list, I'd really appreciate it!
 
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Old Apr 1, 2018 | 07:39 PM
  #60  
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I'm in luck. The picture in post #33 was a little dark, I thought I was looking for a harness end hanging there. Post #56 has better light and I have the connector. I have a black interior with a black overhead console, most I have found have the gray overhead console. Just need to keep looking for that matching VIN #. Thanks a million.
 
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