Yes that helps, I thought I had the Grey coming.

Rob

 

Apparently the F-150 guys have been doing this for a while. I have not read this thread in its entirety, as its 59 pages, but I did find some interesting info in just the first 5 pages.

Take a look: https://www.f150forum.com/f118/retro...315470/index5/

Since these are F-150s, gleaned from the first 5 pages is they are using their own wiring to the switch panel back in Dec 2016.

One thing the caught my eye, to determine the right console to match your interior and options, go the a dealer's lot, find a 2017 SD that matches your needs. Take that truck's VIN number to a parts department, and ask them to look up a console for that VIN.

 

OK, time for pictures. I got the inside and main harnesses run today. The inside harness I have in place to the console, so when my replacement comes, all I need to do, is pull down the current one, and plugin the new Upfitter version.

I have lots of pictures, so I'll start here with the inside.
Remove the driver's side visor, and visor clip. I believe that was an 8mm socket.

Visor removed to allow access above the headliner.


Grasp these covers by the sides. For the top one, pull toward you. It will kinda pivot down, and stay attached to the pull handle with that bottom strap. Don't yank it out!


A 10mm socket removes the two bolts securing the handle.


Once the bolts are out, give the handle a tug down, and toward you. Lift out slowly if you have the tweeters. There are two prongs shown in the next photo, that slip into slots at the bottom of the A-pillar. When you have the handle removed, GENTLY work the headliner free from the rubber door gasket, toward the rear of the driver's door. Disconnect the tweeter if equipped.


Here you can see the tweeter with wire disconnected.


Down at the bottom of the A-pillar, remove the insulation for access to the Upfitter harness connector. The connector seen in this picture is for the tweeter.


See the Upfitter connector? Plug your harness in there! You'll note there are plastic clips all along the A-pillar for securing the new harness up to the headliner. IF YOU DON"T HAVE THIS CONNECTOR, STOP. You will not have the needed connector behind the front inner fender liner either.


To remove the console, grab it on the rear, vertical edge, and pull straight down just enough to release the rear two clips. It takes kind of a sharp, controlled pull, maybe putting your thumbs against the headliner while pulling the console.


This picture shows the location of all the clips holding the console to the console pocket (I'll call it). More on that pocket down a couple pics. The blue box is part of the alarm motion sensors, and one of the harness connectors plug there. To the left of that, you'll see the Upfitter switch connector. Below the blue box is the rear slider window switch. The front connectors are fed by a separate cable running to the console, along the top of the windshield, to the right side of the truck. Had to send this one back as it was cracked out of the box.


Once you have the rear edge clips loose, work down one side, then the other, until the console is free from it's pocket. CAREFULLY disconnect all attached cables to free the console.


Here you can see where my existing harness attaches to the console pocket. Note those locations, as the new Upfitter harness uses the same places to secure the harness. The harness clip is visible just above the hanging connector in the right center of the picture.


Here in the left center of the picture, you'll see one of the other clips. For my installation, since I don't have the new console yet, I just tucked the new harness up in open space above the console pocket. While I COULD have connected the new harness to the power rear window and motion sensors, I figured the less the connectors are plugged and unplugged, the better.

NOTE: There is one connector that is not visible from the driver's seat. It's where the original console harness plugs in, AND, where ONE of the connectors from the new Upfitter harness plugs in. This plug provides power for the Upfitter switch lights when OFF, and powers the rear slider window on my truck. If you look at the above photo. where the cable toward the left comes through the opening, you'll see a clip securing the harness to the console pocket. Looking to the right on that, toward the front of the truck, you'll see another clip with the cable hidden behind the pocket. This clip secures the hidden connector the big retangular plug mates with.

Once you have everything routed and secure, reassemble everything in the reverse order. Only point of concern that should be watched is where the new Upfitter cable routes past the left visor mounting point, so a pinched cable is avoided.

This was a good time to take a break. The next posting with show routing of the main Upfitter power cable to the fuse box on the passenger side.

 

The main harness is run exactly where the factory harness routes, using existing cable clips and chassis holes for the push fasteners. One note, I loosened the majority of those push fasteners, as they're not exactly where they needed to be along the cable. This allows them to fit the factory holes. They're a zip-tied style push fastener, and the zip ties are easily loosened with a automotive straight pick. Do this step before you start. You'll thank me later...

Pictures will be posted tomorrow. Just spent 45 minutes labeling next photos and when I inserted them, they disappeared.

 

1956 thanks for the pictures they will help a lot of us adding this in the future.

 

And here are the pictures, step by step.

Remove both felt inner fenders. The lower two screws are 7mm. I have mud flaps attached, but they use the same screws as trucks without, if I recall correctly. Do this on both sides NOW. There is no easy way or shortcuts for doing a "factory correct" Upfitter harness installation.


Remove all screws securing the inner fender liner on BOTH sides.



Drop the felt inner fender liners. Note I have the hard inner liners installed also. Getting these inner liners out past the inner fender lip is frankly a pain in the ****. I had better luck by starting at the front.
This is where you need to get on both sides. I removed the plastic inner fender liner completely to get enough room for my arms to get in there...


To allow complete access, remove the Torx screws on each side. IIRC, there are three on the left side of the truck, and two on the right.




Above the left inner fender liner, you should see the capped connector, ziptied, or maybe taped to the harness. If you found the connector in the A-pillar, this one will be here also. This connector is required for the Upfitter fuse/relay box.



Snip the wire tie. I have removed the connector's cap for clarity, but I'd leave it on until it is routed for access on top, and the main harness is ready to connect. (Keeps dirt out of the connector.)


Here, the connector is now seen from above. Again, its uncapped for clarity. Put the cap back on until you're ready to plug in the harness.


The harness with the fuse/relay box attached. BEFORE installing this harness, use a mechanic's straight pick and loosen all of the zipties securing the push fasteners to the harness. You'll appreciate this step as I had to do that while the harness was being routed. While the push fasteners are CLOSE to where they end up, they are not placed exactly, and being able to slide them on the cable during install is huge. While the cable COULD be routed by one person, it is much easier with help.


This harness connector mates with the connector in the picture, two above this one.


The airbox snorkle was removed just to have a better sight line to the cable and get some light from above.


Next Slide ---->>>

 

Now start routing the cable. Feed the entire harness though the opening where the Upfitter fuse/relay box will eventually sit. The harness will run just above the fender liner. From below, you will see everything from inside the fender opening. Feed all the cable along and just above the inner fenders liner. For now, just run it out on the floor, in front of the truck.


Dead center of the photo, there is a hole in the blue bracket. That hole is for push fastener #1. The black wedge shaped plastic is the washer reservoir. Front of the truck is to the left.


A close-up of the hole, as seen above. The cable is ready for insertion of push fastener #1. 2nd photo: The hole for push fastener #2 is on this bracket, toward the front of the truck. It cannot be seen, only felt for.



To fully seat the Upfitter relay/fuse box, un-clip the tube I'm supporting in my left hand, from the coolant reservoir. This allows the fuse/relay box to come forward enough to seat on the factory installed Upfitter bracket.



The Upfitter fuse/relay box is seated. Note the tube un-clipped in the previous photo, has not been replaced yet.




Next starts the under the truck routing --->>>

 

The first photo is from under the truck. This view is looking up and toward the left front of the truck. Dead center in this photo (look closely), a hole is visible in the brightest spot. Push fastener #3 inserts here. The cable is routed under the radiator, following the cross member and an existing thick wiring harness.


The power cable is beginning its journey to the right side of the truck. The power lug on the feed end of the cable is just right of center in this picture. It is resting on the lower radiator hose right now. Note: The radiator hose is attached the blue cross member. The cable ends up above the radiator hose, secured to cable clips attached to the existing harness that it follows.


My finger is pointing to the first of the plastic cable clips, put there to secure the Upfitter power harness. This picture illustrates how the "shiny" harness to be followed, runs behind the radiator hose.


This is the end game. Knowing where it needs to end up, really helps with determining routing. The harness lug will connect to this terminal. (You'll need to source a 6mm flange nut which is not there.) Checked with a meter, there is 12VDC at this terminal all the time.



This picture is also for reference of where the cable is heading. Once you've snaked the harness above the radiator hose, following that "shiny" harness, you can prepare for the final routing to the terminal in the above photo. The harness routes along this formed plastic wire chase shown below. For reference, this is looking forward, above the right side fender liner. At the far back of the photo, the two headlight (in my case) LEDs can be seen. This wire chase runs under the right side battery, and push fastener #4 secures the cable towards the front of the wiring chase. The push fastener is where the zip tie is on the cable, and the cable is already secured here.



Taking a step back from the above photo, here the Upfitter cable is seen following the harness under the fan shroud on the right side of the truck. Again, it is secured to the "shiny" harness, with the existing clip in the center of the photo.



This view is just a little different angle from the previous photo. But the cable routing is incorrect. Remember, I needed to figure out best routing as I went... See how the Upfitter harness goes UNDER the large harness? (Keep in mind, this is looking straight up from under the truck.) Actually, the harness should have stayed ABOVE the "shiny" harness, as it needs to end up next to the formed plastic wire chase in the top right of this photo. What I ended up doing, is rotating the clip around the "shiny" harness, so it would better secure the harness, and rerouted the cable correctly.



This photo also shows incorrect routing. The cable does NOT exit where the battery sits. What this does show, at this point, there is still about 5' or 6' of cable left. And you're thinking, from this point to the terminal is only about 2 feet. Where the heck is that much cable getting used??? It's all necessary, believe me.



You pulled the right inner fender down before you started, right?



This is above the right inner fender, and looking slightly left.
The brown bracket supports the fuse box. Note the existing clip on the harness. On the far end of the brown bracket, there is a hole for push fastener #6.
I could not locate a hole for #5. The harness isn't going anywhere, so I didn't worry about it.



The cable is now in place, secured to the locations stated in the photo above. It wraps around, under, and then up to the terminal at the fuse box.
The tan metal on the left is the firewall.



Here the cable lug is shown resting on the fuse box (lower left side of photo). What I'm really showing is that the last, and only white push fastener, #7, gets secured in a bracket hole just below the back corner of the fuse box. Another cable is already secured in a second hole in the same bracket



The same photo as above, a little farther out. I am not connecting to this power cable to the terminal until my Upfitter switch panel is installed. Replace the fuse box cover and reinstall your inner fenders. Have a beer or two. Sit back and ask yourself, why did I buy a lot truck without UPFITTER SWITCHES??? For $167, WhyTF didn't Ford put these on every truck???

 

hi I have to same interior as yours can you confirm the part # for the consol you bought as I have 3 different part # for console on this thread.
thanks

 

I responded in the other thread with a picture of the console installed, but here is the part number:
HC3Z-28519A58-JE

 

thanks appreciate it

 

Thank you 1956 for the pics and info, I just ran my relay box harness from Driver side to Passenger Fuse Panel and like stated above remove the Wheel Well Liners makes it way easier. The only thing I can add is the nut that needed to be acquired was a 6mm flange nut not 5mm. The 5mm was to small and wouldnt even fit over the threads but 6mm fit perfect. I am still waiting on Tasca for my other parts to arrive to finish the install.

 

Typo thanks. I missed it but it has been changed now.

 

Any tips on removing the overhead console? I tried pulling on mine and it seems pretty solid. I was afraid of breaking the tabs or damaging the headliner by denting it or causing it to fall. Trim tool maybe or just muscle it? Also can someone confirm the Grayish console part number?

Also I'm just a little confused on the plug in the A pillar? Am I missing how to plug in that connector and run it to the new console?

I have the Lariat Value Trim with power sliding back glass.

Thank you Gentleman!

 

Just found a video that may help others on removing the overhead console easily.