When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
does anyone know how to make switches 1 through 4 hot all the time?? I would think the plug to the relay / fuse box should have a ignition wire that could be changed to a constant power wire to activate them all the time?
does anyone know how to make switches 1 through 4 hot all the time?? I would think the plug to the relay / fuse box should have a ignition wire that could be changed to a constant power wire to activate them all the time?
The cable feeding the upfitter fuse/relay box is hot all the time. That's how 5 and 6 can get power all the time. I would think is is possible for 1-4 to be hot all the time, but likely would require surgery in the fuse/relay box. It may not even be possible if all the relays plug into a circuit board...
In all my followings of these upfitter threads, I've never heard anyone doing what you're asking.
Just my luck!! Ugh.. Its been raining here all weekend. Im gonna see what i can figure out when it drugs up.
From what I could find there is a switched wire that comes from the bcm that operates on ignition. I wonder if that could be cut and re routed to a constant.
150 dollar option when ordered new....i get all my trucks with it.....gone are the days of chop and crop for me lol....nice too see you guys working so hard though....forum is very helpful...
Just my luck!! Ugh.. Its been raining here all weekend. Im gonna see what i can figure out when it drugs up.
From what I could find there is a switched wire that comes from the bcm that operates on ignition. I wonder if that could be cut and re routed to a constant.
@Bair1218 I'm on the same hunt as you...looks like you can just provide a 12v hot all the time to the switches in lieu of the Green/Orange wire CBP22 on the attached. The relays themselves are powered from a separate line that's always hot, so no need to make any changes there or worry about overloading anything. (But I'd still fuse your new 12v source with a 5A fuse!) Haven't pulled anything apart to check, but I would have to bet that the Green/Orange wire can be found in the piece of the harness running up the A pillar to the switches. Make sure to protect the BCM side of the wire you cut to avoid grounding out the BCM output line.
Let me know if you get around to it, otherwise I'll give it a go sometime in the next couple months and let you know.
@1956Fatfenders Awesome job with the write-up and all the support you've been giving!
@Bair1218 I'm on the same hunt as you...looks like you can just provide a 12v hot all the time to the switches in lieu of the Green/Orange wire CBP22 on the attached. The relays themselves are powered from a separate line that's always hot, so no need to make any changes there or worry about overloading anything. (But I'd still fuse your new 12v source with a 5A fuse!) Haven't pulled anything apart to check, but I would have to bet that the Green/Orange wire can be found in the piece of the harness running up the A pillar to the switches. Make sure to protect the BCM side of the wire you cut to avoid grounding out the BCM output line.
Let me know if you get around to it, otherwise I'll give it a go sometime in the next couple months and let you know.
@1956Fatfenders Awesome job with the write-up and all the support you've been giving!
well thats awesome news!! thanks! ill let ya know if I get to it son and how t goes!
@Bair1218 I'm on the same hunt as you...looks like you can just provide a 12v hot all the time to the switches in lieu of the Green/Orange wire CBP22 on the attached. The relays themselves are powered from a separate line that's always hot, so no need to make any changes there or worry about overloading anything. (But I'd still fuse your new 12v source with a 5A fuse!) Haven't pulled anything apart to check, but I would have to bet that the Green/Orange wire can be found in the piece of the harness running up the A pillar to the switches. Make sure to protect the BCM side of the wire you cut to avoid grounding out the BCM output line.
Let me know if you get around to it, otherwise I'll give it a go sometime in the next couple months and let you know.
@1956Fatfenders Awesome job with the write-up and all the support you've been giving!
JUST HAVE TO SAY again how wonderful your guide is, @1956Fatfenders . I took time off over the holidays, bought some Rough Country LED lights, and am finally completing this install. I'd already done the interior console work. Some notes below.
Originally Posted by 1956Fatfenders
This is the end game. You'll need to source a 6mm flange nut which is not there.
THANK YOU for this little tidbit of info. I don't recall if I got a 5mm or 6mm nut when starting this but it fit and I'm good.
Originally Posted by 1956Fatfenders
You pulled the right inner fender down before you started, right?
Yessir, I did. And you're right - it's absolutely a must to make it like OEM factory installed!
Originally Posted by 1956Fatfenders
I could not locate a hole for #5. The harness isn't going anywhere, so I didn't worry about it.
I couldn't either. My truck is a bit different from yours, since I'm running the 6.2L gasser. Still, it was similar enough that it was a no-brainer with the pics you provided.
Originally Posted by 1956Fatfenders
Sit back and ask yourself, why did I buy a lot truck without UPFITTER SWITCHES??? For $167, WhyTF didn't Ford put these on every truck???
I've been asking myself that all day! Seriously, thanks again for the guide. SUPER helpful. I'm going back through now and fastening the fasteners along the 'shiny wire chase', then I'll reinstall the wheel well liners (yay!). Then after lunch, time to take the grill apart and install some lights!
JUST HAVE TO SAY again how wonderful your guide is, @1956Fatfenders . Seriously, thanks again for the guide. SUPER helpful. I'm going back through now and fastening the fasteners along the 'shiny wire chase', then I'll reinstall the wheel well liners (yay!). Then after lunch, time to take the grill apart and install some lights!
You're very welcome my friend. Happy to repay some of the knowledge gained from this forum. Happy New Year!
You're very welcome my friend. Happy to repay some of the knowledge gained from this forum. Happy New Year!
I'd give you more reps if I could but already did earlier in this thread, so it won't let me. Here's the final result, so far. Much more to come in the upcoming months.
Does anyone know if these upfitter switches could work on a Chevy or Ram. Can i just buy all the wiring harnesses needed and the switch block get power and ground? Or is there certain plugs on every ford truck harness that is needed in order to power the switches correctly? I was going to order these parts and see if i could make it work HC3Z-13D730-AA, HC3Z-15A404-A, HC3Z-14A303-F, HC3Z-15A404-B. Ive been researching for a while and find it hard to believe no one in the world has tried this or made it work but maybe its just because it cant be done?
Been a while, but finally got back to this. Worked like a charm!
(This worked for me, but I assume no responsibility if it goes wrong for you!)
1) I pulled the overhead console off and disconnected the connector to the upfitters.
2) Pulled the insulation back and cut the Green/Orange (CBP22) and the Green/Red (SB104) wires.
3) Snip snip...no going back now.
4) Used a butt connector to join the Green/Red wire (always hot if you've moved the 5A fuse under the hood to the F4C position) from the harness to the two loose ends from the connector. Make sure to tape off the Green/Orange loose wire to avoid shorting out the switched wire from the BCM.
5) Reassemble and now your upfitters are hot all the time!
