Ive heard from few people that it did but Ive heard few people say it didn't... But u can try it.. The tape works perfect for me now so I'm not going to mess with moving the striker

 

 

I have a rattle not a squeak directly from the center of the passenger front door behind the handle...crazy annoying over pitted roads. And as soon as you pull very slightly on the handle, it goes away. So I'm thinking cable housing.

Here's what I found and it seems reasonable albeit this is a 2015 f150.

https://www.f150forum.com/f118/fixes...peeves-332100/

 

 

No prob..ive had the tape on for few months now n its been good.. I'm sure il have to replace the tape sooner or later.. But I don't mind

 

Update from my end...needed some fresh air from the office, so I went out and wrapped each door catch with 3-4 wraps of electrical tape. Test drive, and voila...door rattle is gone!

$1.00 fix on an $80K truck...haha.

 

Visited my dealers body shop to try to get squeal fixed. Luckily the tech heard it soon as we went for a drive. He grabbed a hammer and a screw driver and we went to a rough parking lot.
He spent an hour adjusting all 4 door strikers to get 99% of the squeaks out. SO much better!!

 

So I'm a ford tech, this noise occurs on my truck as well on all for doors. I would describe as more of a sudden "pop" or "click" from the B and C pillars. I've done as much adjusting as possible per the workshop manual.(btw repairs like this dont pay much, its kind of a @$$ fu##ing from ford when we have issues like this) but being my own personal truck I've played with the issue alot. Never been able to get it to go away. I've done EVERYTHING BY THE BOOK. Until last night, when i broke down and actually got on a forum to see if anyone had found a solution I tried this tape trick, but I only did it on the drivers door to be able to confirm this repair. I no longer heard it from my drivers door, but still from my other doors. Unfortunately this wouldn't be an "official repair" or something you could have "covered". I however have dug deeper and found this latch 9L3Z-1522008-A which has a rubber grommet on it. It was part of an old TSB for older F-150s. But I believe Ford has NOT changed their striker design in the F-series trucks since 1995. However this part number doesn't apply to these trucks, so for the time this is not something that could be done under warranty. just thought I'd post my experience with this issue from an actual tech perspective. I may order one or two of these strikers, but at this time I'm just gonna roll with this tape trick

 

Thank you for the feedback on this, it's interesting to hear this from an actual Ford technician. I think there are potentially two different issues that are coming up in this thread....some have issues with the latch/striker (which is what you have walked through) and some (including me) have an issue with the noise from the door seal (as the door moves slightly while hitting sharp bumps). It seems to me that the door is moving and loosing contact pressure with the inner door seal which is creating that slight popping noise. I tried the tape trick on the door striker but that didn't solve my issue. I've also moved the striker in slightly which helped. There is a limit at to how much you can move the striker though, move it in too much and you could have contact between the rear of the front door and the front of the rear door.

I think that the inner door seal needs better contact with the door. The old "door seal mod" with the surgical tubing does work, but it results in the door being harder to close. Might need to go back to that but play around with different diameter tubing.

 

That latch i suggested actually has a large rubber grommet on it that prevents the door from "moving" when its closed. This should take care of both issues even before i dug into this issue on my truck, that kind of noise immediately lead me to assume it was something to do with the latch and striker. Should have went with my gut from the get go.

 

I'm game. Just ordered two on Amazon. Will report back once I get these installed.

 

While we're on the topic of moving the striker, anyone found a torx bit that actually fits those bolts? T45 is too big, T40 works but is sloppy...you have to be very careful not to strip the head of that bolt.

 

I have a t40 anf t45 never used anything else, its a "special" socket but i always just use torx bits

 

UPDATE: Applied 3 wraps of electrical tape on each stryker, complete quietness

 

I put some black Gorilla tape on all four of my doors last weekend and it worked as well. I was not getting much noise before but now it is completely quiet. Simple fix and when the tape wears out I will put more on.