When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I loosened the door latch on the pillar and was able to move it back maybe an eighth of an inch. It pulls the door in some making it not quite flush with the rear door but not noticeable. The squeak, rattle and door movement are gone. So far after about 2500 miles no problems and no squeaks, rattles or door movement. We put about 2K on it pulling our fifth wheel which exaggerates the bumps somewhat and it has held tight.
I loosened the door latch on the pillar and was able to move it back maybe an eighth of an inch. It pulls the door in some making it not quite flush with the rear door but not noticeable. The squeak, rattle and door movement are gone. So far after about 2500 miles no problems and no squeaks, rattles or door movement. We put about 2K on it pulling our fifth wheel which exaggerates the bumps somewhat and it has held tight.
I didn't even think about that.. Funny cuz I checked my driver door n its not flush.. It sticks out tiny tiny bit so that might be the problem.. I'm gona loosen the latch n take it in which will make my door flush n hopefully get rid of the squeak
It's not the seals, not the hinges; doesn't need another dousing of silicone either...
It's the door latch and striker. The striker has a super thin layer of plastic coating that wears quickly. The door latch has plastic coating the steel pawl.
Plastic on plastic equals squeaks over bumps, even minute movements will squeak.
Adjusting the striker in will only cause door misalignment and accelerated wear on latch.
Adding stiffer weather stripping will only make door harder to close and accelerate wear on latch.
My solution costs about 1 cent and 30 seconds. Clean the striker with alcohol. Get 3M cloth gaffers tape (or similar) and wrap 1-2 layers of it around striker. Make sure the tape has full adhesion and no ripples. It is best you leave the tape seam toward the outside.
Close door to check function, it should close just like the factory intended it to.
The squeaks should be gone. The fiber in the tape should last for a few months before replacement.
i had mine in for a rattle and squeak by interior door handle, drivers side. Tech "insulated" the backside of the panel and it seems to have done the trick.
I took my truck back to ford a couple weeks ago to tell the mechanic that the door was noisier than before the prior adjustment. met the mechanic as he was parking my truck outside and he stated that on some trucks the door is sprung and needs adjustment.... I can only assume his adjustment was some kind of 'bending' of the door..... =(
My truck has had a driver's side door shimmy since new. IOW I can hear it flexing around in the frame of the truck as I drive down the road. It also has wind noise on the highway so my guess is the door is not aligned correctly
i now have this "squeek/rattle" started after a weekend at the ranch. Now it wont go away unless I hold the door with force. Its driving me bananas! Going to try to figure it out today.
Ok i think i got a fix for the driver door squeak/tick ..I originally thought about adjusting the striker in more so the door would close tighter. But instead of doing that i put some electrical tape over the striker where the door latch goes over and it seems like it fixed the problem.. Trust me im not happy with putting electrical tape on the striker on a $70k truck to fix a door squeak/tick i shoudlnt have to..anyways its fixed and il keep it like that until i hear the noise again.
It's not the seals, not the hinges; doesn't need another dousing of silicone either...
It's the door latch and striker. The striker has a super thin layer of plastic coating that wears quickly. The door latch has plastic coating the steel pawl.
Plastic on plastic equals squeaks over bumps, even minute movements will squeak.
Adjusting the striker in will only cause door misalignment and accelerated wear on latch.
Adding stiffer weather stripping will only make door harder to close and accelerate wear on latch.
My solution costs about 1 cent and 30 seconds. Clean the striker with alcohol. Get 3M cloth gaffers tape (or similar) and wrap 1-2 layers of it around striker. Make sure the tape has full adhesion and no ripples. It is best you leave the tape seam toward the outside.
Close door to check function, it should close just like the factory intended it to.
The squeaks should be gone. The fiber in the tape should last for a few months before replacement.
can you post a picture or link to this tape please?
Ok i think i got a fix for the driver door squeak/tick ..I originally thought about adjusting the striker in more so the door would close tighter. But instead of doing that i put some electrical tape over the striker where the door latch goes over and it seems like it fixed the problem.. Trust me im not happy with putting electrical tape on the striker on a $70k truck to fix a door squeak/tick i shoudlnt have to..anyways its fixed and il keep it like that until i hear the noise again.
will try this today and see how it works. Thanks for the info
can you post a picture or link to this tape please?
It's a cloth tape, easy to tear side ways, but very hard to tear linearly. I cut a small strip about .75" wide and 1'' long and you can barely see it on the striker, even if you are looking for it.
I tried electrical tape, the nylon is too soft to stand up to repeated door closures and it left a sticky residue upon removal.
It's a cloth tape, easy to tear side ways, but very hard to tear linearly. I cut a small strip about .75" wide and 1'' long and you can barely see it on the striker, even if you are looking for it.
I tried electrical tape, the nylon is too soft to stand up to repeated door closures and it left a sticky residue upon removal.