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Driver Door Squeak

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Old Jun 28, 2019 | 06:14 PM
  #121  
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From: Phelan CA
Originally Posted by jlh1958
THANK YOU DSLTRK60!!

I have a 2018 F-150 Crew Cab XLT and was having the same issue. It sounded like rubber "squeaking" over bumps. I tried the RV rubber seal treatment on the weather stripping, which helped a tiny bit, but it was still there. I was afraid of making things worse by messing with the latch and hinges, and then I found your post about putting some tape on the striker.

All I had was Gorilla Tape, so I cleaned the striker with alcohol and put three revolutions of Gorilla Tape around the striker where the latch meets it. I just got back from driving over all the bumps in my neighborhood that always made it squeak....and it IS SILENT!! A few cents' worth of Gorilla Tape and 2 minutes was all it took!

Door closes perfectly without any extra effort, is solid, and now it is quiet!

THANK YOU!
Glad it helped you, but sorry Ford didn't catch this issue on trucks this expensive.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2019 | 08:31 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by spongecop
i have a tick from B pillar area over bumps...only 2300 miles and not a huge deal so I plan to let it go a while and see
Originally Posted by zephyr74
I just developed a squeak or tick sound next to the B pillar on the drivers side as well after 1500 miles and 2 months of having the truck! Wow, please keep me posted if anybody knows the cause and the fix. Thank you
This sounds like the noise I hear, I've noticed it pretty much since new. Anyone fixes?
 
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Old Jun 30, 2019 | 02:29 AM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by cnm_mike
My driver door has developed a squeak after 1500 miles. I cleaned the seals with 303 with no effect. I took it to the dealer today, they used the "official Ford penetrating fluid". It helped a lot, but still not quiet. The dealer is going to contact Ford to see if any other people have had a similar problems. Has anyone here have the problem? I know past years had issues after the seals were worn and used surgical tubing in the seal to fix it, but this is a 25 month old vehicle!
thx..Mike


I have just hit 1,000 miles on my ‘19 F250 6.7L.
My door also squeaks pretty badly.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2019 | 07:13 AM
  #124  
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I bought my 17 in August of 17. The squeak was irritating. In September I moved the latch inward as much as I could. The squeak/rattle was gone and is still gone. You would think after almost 3 years run on this model they would have come up with a fix. I'm contemplating a 20 next year. I sure hope they do something about it but probably not.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2019 | 08:02 PM
  #125  
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my 2013 Explorer doors are squeaky mess. Lube them and a week later they are squeaking mess again. Another better idea by Ford!
 
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Old Jul 16, 2019 | 03:21 PM
  #126  
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Okay, so the tape kept wearing off periodically and while the squeak was gone, I occasionally would get a clunk when the truck hit severe washboard or holes on the dirt road.

I decided to check other vehicles and low behold the 2018 Chevy Cruze (and Silverado, Buick etc) has a striker dimensionally the same, except the bar is a bit thicker.

I bought the striker from a local GM dealer and have it installed($6 part). Door works great and so far no squeaks or clunks.

Will update on durability but so far this looks like a cheap and (hopefully) permanent fix.


 
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Old Jul 16, 2019 | 05:59 PM
  #127  
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That could be great info for a lot of guys DSL!
 
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Old Jul 17, 2019 | 05:56 AM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by DSLTRK60
Okay, so the tape kept wearing off periodically and while the squeak was gone, I occasionally would get a clunk when the truck hit severe washboard or holes on the dirt road.

I decided to check other vehicles and low behold the 2018 Chevy Cruze (and Silverado, Buick etc) has a striker dimensionally the same, except the bar is a bit thicker.

I bought the striker from a local GM dealer and have it installed($6 part). Door works great and so far no squeaks or clunks.

Will update on durability but so far this looks like a cheap and (hopefully) permanent fix.


WOW!
I hope it lasts!
Great post.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2019 | 06:05 PM
  #129  
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I had the same problems with squeaks and rattles from both front doors.
I tried literally everything from insulating the door panel retainers with electrical tape and put duct tape over the top of the inner door skin where the door panel rest on it with no avail.

The fix is to move the strikers down a touch. You will want the doors to be slightly more difficult to latch.
This will hold the doors down just a touch when they latch.

Some of you experience a rattle sound thats most likely the problem i had. The rattle comes from the black mirror covers on the inside of the doors. Since the strikers are too small in diameter IMO, the doors have the ability to move in, out, up, & down when hitting bumps. When the door moves up while hitting a bump, this causes the black interior mirror cover to move up with the door & make contact with the weatherstrip/door frame. This contact drives the black mirror cover back down into the door panel. CLICK/RATTLE.

I had that clicking rattle sound from the interior mirror cover, a rubbing sound from the top corner of the door, rattles from the door panel, & door pull handle

Moving the strikers down so the doors cant bounce around as much was the fix for me. If the doors are held in a slight bind from moving the strikers, the ability for the doors to move relative to the cab is drastically reduced. If the doors are held still from moving the strikers, then the doors don't have the ability to gain speed and then hit the striker causing a jolt to everything attached to the door.

The striker diameter being too small creates the domino effect that leads to the rattles clunks & squeaks.
DROVE ME NUCKING FUTS for months till i figured it out.

Hope this helps some people get rid of those irritating rattles, clunks, clicks, squeaks & start liking their quiet truck.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2019 | 02:01 PM
  #130  
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Somewhat unrelated but still kind of on topic, I was trying to move the strike on one of the rear doors in a little for better door to cab alignment, I was able to get maybe 1/32" in that direction. How loose do the screws need to be and how much movement do they allow? When the screws are loose i could get the strike to move maybe a 1/16" but as the screws get tightened it would bring it back closer to where I started.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2019 | 02:06 PM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by ForCal
Somewhat unrelated but still kind of on topic, I was trying to move the strike on one of the rear doors in a little for better door to cab alignment, I was able to get maybe 1/32" in that direction. How loose do the screws need to be and how much movement do they allow? When the screws are loose i could get the strike to move maybe a 1/16" but as the screws get tightened it would bring it back closer to where I started.
They are hard to move. They will move more easily if you lightly tap on them with a 2.5lb or 5lb baby sledge hammer.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2019 | 02:31 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by StonedGrey
They are hard to move. They will move more easily if you lightly tap on them with a 2.5lb or 5lb baby sledge hammer.
I knocked on it with a small block of wood and a trim hammer. I would have been happy with the amount it moved if it actually stayed instead of returning while tightening. So if i go at it again, do you just break the screws loose or back them out several turns? Will it actually move inward as far as the body will allow?
 
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Old Jul 19, 2019 | 04:36 PM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by ForCal
I knocked on it with a small block of wood and a trim hammer. I would have been happy with the amount it moved if it actually stayed instead of returning while tightening. So if i go at it again, do you just break the screws loose or back them out several turns? Will it actually move inward as far as the body will allow?
Its been awhile since i adjusted my strikers. Im fairly certain i removed the 2 screws completely and tapped on the striker. Then reinstalled the screws.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2019 | 05:22 PM
  #134  
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From: Phelan CA
Originally Posted by ForCal
I knocked on it with a small block of wood and a trim hammer. I would have been happy with the amount it moved if it actually stayed instead of returning while tightening. So if i go at it again, do you just break the screws loose or back them out several turns? Will it actually move inward as far as the body will allow?
You need to back the bolt out enough to clear the taper of the bolt head. If you don't it will bind against the body when you tap the striker.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2019 | 02:13 PM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by DSLTRK60
Okay, so the tape kept wearing off periodically and while the squeak was gone, I occasionally would get a clunk when the truck hit severe washboard or holes on the dirt road.

I decided to check other vehicles and low behold the 2018 Chevy Cruze (and Silverado, Buick etc) has a striker dimensionally the same, except the bar is a bit thicker.

I bought the striker from a local GM dealer and have it installed($6 part). Door works great and so far no squeaks or clunks.

Will update on durability but so far this looks like a cheap and (hopefully) permanent fix.


Any updates on how the GM door striker is working out? It would be nice to find a permanent fix to the annoying door rattle over bumps.
 
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