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Old Nov 18, 2017 | 04:05 PM
  #61  
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daniel044
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Tried the electrical tape method, worked perfectly. It’s definitely the striker for sure.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2017 | 04:15 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by daniel044
Tried the electrical tape method, worked perfectly. It’s definitely the striker for sure.
Glad it worked .. Yep definitely the striker
 
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Old Nov 18, 2017 | 09:05 PM
  #63  
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DSLTRK60
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Originally Posted by Rockinfigs
Cheapest 3m gaffer tape on ebay is $23
It doesn't have to be 3M, I used Polyken brand, same type.

Even so why act like $23 is a big deal after you bought a truck that cost $70,000?

The electrical tape works, but it does not last like the fiber tape and looks like s***.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2017 | 09:32 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by DSLTRK60
It doesn't have to be 3M, I used Polyken brand, same type.

Even so why act like $23 is a big deal after you bought a truck that cost $70,000?

The electrical tape works, but it does not last like the fiber tape and looks like s***.
Why spend money on tape when I already have electrical tape at home.. N it's black so it blends in perfect cant even tell its there plus I get no squeak so I'm happy.. So why would I want to spend money on tape I don't need
 
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Old Nov 18, 2017 | 09:56 PM
  #65  
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From: Phelan CA
Originally Posted by Rockinfigs
Why spend money on tape when I already have electrical tape at home.. N it's black so it blends in perfect cant even tell its there plus I get no squeak so I'm happy.. So why would I want to spend money on tape I don't need
Hey, as long as you like it, great. I've already been through this, being an electrician, I have dozens of rolls of the stuff. I tried it on my striker, and it only lasted a week.

Every tape has a purpose. Electrical tape is meant to insulate, it is not abrasion resistant or have good tensile strength, both scenarios a door striker surface replicates each time you close the door.


The Polyken fiber tape I bought cost $8.61, not $23 & certainly not $50.
So far it has outlasted the electrical tape 3-1 and shows little wear. $8 goes a long ways if it means I won't have to remove and reapply tape every week.

The point is you made this out to be a insignificant cost analysis when I am offering the longest lasting fix based on my actual experiences.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2017 | 10:08 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by DSLTRK60
Hey, as long as you like it, great. I've already been through this, being an electrician, I have dozens of rolls of the stuff. I tried it on my striker, and it only lasted a week.

Every tape has a purpose. Electrical tape is meant to insulate, it is not abrasion resistant or have good tensile strength, both scenarios a door striker surface replicates each time you close the door.


The Polyken fiber tape I bought cost $8.61, not $23 & certainly not $50.
So far it has outlasted the electrical tape 3-1 and shows little wear. $8 goes a long ways if it means I won't have to remove and reapply tape every week.

The point is you made this out to be a insignificant cost analysis when I am offering the longest lasting fix based on my actual experiences.
Well I didn't make it out to be a cost analysis.. Someone else did.. but il stick to my electrical tape
 
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Old Nov 21, 2017 | 04:02 PM
  #67  
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I did the tape, the rattle is gone!
 
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 08:57 AM
  #68  
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exactly where are you applying the tape, the striker has three sides to it?
Mike
 
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 09:20 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by cnm_mike
exactly where are you applying the tape, the striker has three sides to it?
Mike
The part the door latch latches onto.. So u have 3 sides on the striker.. Put tape on the outer part.. Il try to post a pic later
 
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Old Dec 14, 2017 | 08:21 AM
  #70  
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Hi all,

I'm having the same issue (I think). I'm hearing the door seal and wind noise through the upper rear portion of the drivers door when hitting sharp bumps. I tried the gaffer tape fix but not yielding the same success that others have had. I used about 1-1/2 wraps of the tape on the striker. Is that not enough? Or perhaps too much?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2017 | 09:22 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by jlalanas
Hi all,

I'm having the same issue (I think). I'm hearing the door seal and wind noise through the upper rear portion of the drivers door when hitting sharp bumps. I tried the gaffer tape fix but not yielding the same success that others have had. I used about 1-1/2 wraps of the tape on the striker. Is that not enough? Or perhaps too much?

Thanks in advance.
Wind noise isn't a good sound, that could be a door misalignment. The tape only eliminates the squeak created by the plastic coated latch rubbing on the striker. What you did sounds right, about 2 wraps on mine and still good.


I'd check body line gaps around your door, and if those look in spec, check to make sure all weatherstripping is seated properly and isn't deformed/folded on itself.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2017 | 09:39 AM
  #72  
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I definitely don't have a squeak, but I thought after reading some of the posts in this thread my issue might be similar.....

I've tried that door seal mod on a previous 2017 and that sort of worked but did make the door difficult to close and open, so not keen on doing that again. I'll have to take another look at the seals as you mentioned.

The door does seem to "move" when hitting sharp bumps which causing the door to compress/release the door seal and I'm hearing a combination of the seal expanding/compressing and some air. And I thought that by putting the tape on the striker, the door catch would have a tighter hold and not allow the door to "move" when hitting those bumps.....

Thanks again.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2017 | 10:07 AM
  #73  
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Has anyone tried just cleaning the door seals. Armor All or Silicone spray?

I haven't tried it on the SD, but that worked great on my GM's and Mustangs.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2017 | 08:18 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Buliwyf
Has anyone tried just cleaning the door seals. Armor All or Silicone spray?

I haven't tried it on the SD, but that worked great on my GM's and Mustangs.

I haven't but will definitely give that a try. My feeling is that the noise is a result of the door moving in/out when hitting the bumps. If that could somehow be resolved, I would think there wouldn't be the noise issue.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2017 | 09:12 AM
  #75  
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101grunt
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My driver door started to squeak like hell when going over rougher ground. Squeak started around 8,000 miles.

I took it back to the dealer for the third time for a roof wind noise problem, and had them look at the door.

They made some adjustments, not sure what, but the squeak is gone. The howling wind noise at highway speeds remains.
 
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