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Oh I wont be going back to paint again. Its good for now its just the clear is hazy in some areas due to over spray. I am going to try to use my white polish pad to try and remove the over spray and shine it up some. The line dent in the finish up by the head tube I am going to leave going to be too much work to blend it in and I don't want to mess up the finish on the tank in that area trying to fix a small blemish.
Well I painted my fork pieces today they came out beautiful after the clear. So I am ordering two more cans of clear I am going to hang up the frame again wipe it down with eastwood Pre to clean the clear up and I am going to spray the whole frame again with clear try to get it a little thicker and wetter like I did the forks to eliminate the overspray haze.
You'll have to scuff up the clear with a gray Scotchbrite pad before you clear so it sticks or you'll have problems with flaking later..
Well too late for that. I already hung the frame up again wiped it down with my pre which made the clear a little tacky feeling then came back and put two heavy coats of clear on.
First up is the primary fork after its been scrubbed, primed, base coated and clear coated. This is the final coat of clear on this primary fork.
Second is the secondary fork after it too has been scrubbed, primed, base coated, and clear coated. This is the final coat of clear on this secondary fork.
Third is the misc linkage components for the function of the springer fork. Ive seen some keep the upper spring bracket black to match the black headset and black stem. I how ever painted mine red to match the bike even though it will be sandwiched between a black cone upper headset and the black VO stem.
Final two are of the frame after I rehung it wiped it down with Eastwood Pre and shot another coat of clear on to get a more uniform shine. Still has a little roughness in the fuel tank on the side and top but its in an easier to access area that I can hit with some 1000 - 1500 grit sand paper and buff out to blend in some.
lastly is a photo from online of the handle bar I ordered last night.
I wanted the clubman Deluxe which is out of stock till November/December which is identical to this one just that the bar has a higher rise/drop than this one. I will be trying this handle bar mounted upside down with a drop down for a retro look board track racer style and will try mounting up right like a motorcycle and see which way feels better to me.
I haven't ordered the wheels just yet how ever. I am still awaiting for a $185ish refund from Niagra for the 1" threaded fork I ordered initially. Once that comes in I will use that money to buy the wheel set for $115.00 and then buy from Grubee the 61mm HD axle hub and 44T sprocket. I'm also still trying to figure out if the vintage style hoop rear axle kick stand will fit on my 150mm drop out. This guy on another forum I am on said if the guys measurement is correct on height the width is just a hair under 150mm so it can be stretched out to fit my frame.
Are you going with the white rubber tires too, I like the looks of the first picture you posted..
I am not fully sure. I will be running chrome/stainless spoke rims I wont be using black mainly cause I cant find black in my price range or in the plain jane spoke setup without reflectors and without lettering on the rim itself.
Initially I was looking at a black tire with a big white wall.
I am leaning more towards the CST Cruiser tire its 26" x 2.125" with a white wall
But I am also looking at the following tires as well.
Continetial Retro Ride 26"x2" Cream
Continetial Retro Ride 26"x2.2" Black
This CST Cruiser white wall tire with different tread pattern
Minor detail, but they should have used an old school glass bowl fuel filter. For 5 grand though, whattaya expect?
That's what I was thinking of doing. Running a 90* pipe fitting into the tank with tbird style sediment bowl style filter then run a hose from that down to the carb. Not sure if it will work right might have to find something scaled down maybe for a old ford tractor I know the 641 work master we have has one that bolts to the side of the carb inlet. Could probably make something like that work.
Another thing if you look closely at the bike in the first pic they sold for $2,500 you see they have no chain tensioner. All the engine kits you buy comes with a clamp on chain tensioner that clamps on the trailing tube that allows you to tension the chain for proper tension. They also are using coaster brakes on at least the rear. Mine is going to have disc brakes front and rear.
I found a cool little dual cable handle that I am going to use for front and rear disc brakes. Think I will try having the cable for the front brakes set a hair looser so the rear brakes do the initial braking to prevent over braking and throwing you forward over the handlebars.
I was thinking those tires would have been larger than that, the black with the white wall look good and would stay cleaner looking for a lot longer too..
I was thinking those tires would have been larger than that, the black with the white wall look good and would stay cleaner looking for a lot longer too..
These are pretty large tires I'm looking around 2.125". Some claim you can fit a 3" wide tire on these frames and forks but ive also seen some claim that 3" will rub the front forks.
I did post on the forums I am on what the widest tires one can run on this frame and fork I have. I have heard some running 3" others claim they rub. If I can run wider I would like to for more stability.
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