Thanks. I still need to pull the rear kick stand off and see if I can tweak it and modify it to fit my frame flush so I can move my rear axle forward to the middle of my adjustment.

Aside from that I am leaning towards buying a Zeda 80 engine kit for $139.00 and using as many of the parts as possible. At least in this case I can do some modifications to the Zeda 80 myself and see if they make a improvement or not.

 

Well a update pertaining to the step forward and two steps back that Ive made since my last update.

First off I got all my parts for the bottom bracket and got them installed yesterday. Found out the crank on the right side hits the chain stay in the back while the left side has about 1/8" or so of clearance. I bought another crank at $21 with shipping and it is supposed to have 5" between the two arms but eyeballing what I have mine looks closer to 6 inches between. With how close it is I am contemplating of locating some spacers to shim the crank out towards the right side and cut the difference so each side has roughly the same clearance on the chain stays.

Second I received the aluminum cap that looks like a old vintage fuel can cap. Down side it has no gasket which up side is I can make the gasket no problem. Another down side is it doesn't thread down far enough to touch the gasket surface anyways. I think I will have to smear some grease on the threads and slowly work it back and forth till I clean or stretch the threads out so it will fit against the gasket surface.

Third I don't remember if I covered it but I lowered my front end by raising the spring perch with 35mm worth of spacers and installing a low profile stem over my VO high rise.

Fourth I have some vintage looking pedals but haven't installed them yet till I decide what to do with my crank issue. If I opt out and just invest in a 1 piece to 3 piece crank conversion I have to send them back as they are the vintage 1/2" thread where as the 3 piece cranks use 9/16" thread pedals.

Aside from that not much has been done. So far I have a pair of Avid BB7 MTN brake calipers coming in at a cost of $70 after shipping. I have a double pull brake handle coming from Amazon for $10. I also have from amazon for another $10 coming in some Velo brand leather sewn grips to put on bike. Down side is I have no choice in the light brown leather or the dark brown its a luck of the draw so I cant buy my leather seat yet till I see what color the grips are.

These first few pics are over all photos of how the bike looks as of now.










Right side interference between crank arm and chain stay.



Left side clearance between crank arm and chain stay.



modified drop stand mount to fit better. Also modified to allow wheel to slide forward to forward most position.



New fuel cap partially screwed down.

 

its nice I like it...but that speedo just seems out of place...not vintage enough?

 

Its really isn't vintage enough. I have really thought about just simply popping the lens off and having a "Indian" decal of some kind made to place over the center to make it more vintage looking.

Aside from that only thing vintage I could find was Schwinn and other brand bike speedos from the 50`s but I really didn't want a square speedometer that said Schwinn on it lol.

 

I'm not being critical - just thinking out out loud w/ you....

Maybe its the proportion? or the plastic ?
I think if you wrapped the (black) cable in some aluminum or metal/braid it might look a bit more vintage...

OLD board racers had HUGE speeds but they were thin and had heavy cables connecting them.

 

Oh I know. I really was thinking about seeing if I could take the cable apart and slide like some of that cloth braid loom over it to give it more of a vintage feel than that slick modern plastic look.

If I could find a motorcycle style speedometer made out of metal that would work I would so retrofit it. I hate the plastic feel but its the only thing out there.

 

theres a few here too (Barber Motorsports Vintage board Racer Speedo)

 

Its a shame no one is really selling old style board track racer speedometers. I looked on ebay and online didn't really find anything. No biggie I can live with this one for now probably wont last long with the plastic gears it uses.

 

Looks like it's coming along nicely, how does the chain work seeing as the sprockets are on opposite sides...?

 

The chain works in this fashion, the large sprocket on the left side of the bike has a 415HD chain that runs to the 66cc 2 stroke engine and the chain ring on the pedal runs straight back to a small 16 tooth freewheel sprocket for pedaling and kick starting/pedal starting of the engine. Probably going to be noisy as hell as the freewheel was a $40 one that uses 7 or 8 locking pawls that has a very loud ratchet effect. Probably will drive me crazy when running down the street on engine power and that thing is ratcheting along.

It is coming along just had to order some spacers for the crank to try and move the crank to the right some to get clearance between the crank arm and chainstays. I am also contemplating of trying to shift the rear wheel assembly 2mm to the left. Right now the center line of the rear tire with the center line of the bike is about 8 - 9mm to the right. This also throws off the freewheel as it is sticking out further than I think I can shift the crank to get a straight true line.

Way I plan to do this to prevent the rotor from smashing into the chainstay is to remove the spacer between the drive sprocket flange and the hub and reinstall without it, this should move the rotor and sprocket in a good 2 to 3 mm and allow me to shift the wheel 2mm to the left. Aside from that I am pretty much at the limit of what I can do adjustment wise. Only other way to shift the wheel over is to take the whole bike to the shop and request that they dish the wheel to the bike since they charged me $50 to build the wheel but never dished it for my bike.

As of right now I am looking at some old leather helmets with goggles to buy but just really cant find anything that I can wear. Everything I am finding is 22 to 22.8 inch size and my hat size is 7 3/4 which puts me right at 24 1/4" roughly. I guess I shouldn't be surprised the ones I'm looking at in that retro vintage style is all made in Asian and we all know they are a smaller people with smaller heads.

 

I guess I should have went back to the first picture you posted...

 

Yep down side is I just am praying I have no issues with my rear wheel being offset like it is. I don't think I can dish the wheel to the left as I think it will put the tire into the chain. So I also cant shift it to the left either to try and bring the freewheel sprocket in towards centerline as I have to remove the spacer behind the drive sprocket flange so I can remove the 2mm spacer from left and move it to the right side which would put my wheel offset center line from 8 to 9 mm to 6 to 7 mm or under 5/16" off.

Its getting to the point that I am finding more issues the more I put together hopefully the bike rides fine cause if it rides horribly then I will try to find someone to unload it on for about $2,000 so I can make a little something off my time and I will start the process all over again but this time build it on a 135mm dropout frame.

 

Well I did some thinking last night and some measuring it looks like I can shift my wheel to the left 5mm maybe 7mm which would get the wheel from being so far off to the right. I need to shift it as my freewheel is too far outboard as it is and there is no way to bring the chain ring on the pedal out that far to line up without trading the right crank arm hitting the frame for the left crank arm hitting the frame.

I can remove the thick threaded spacer between hub and sprocket flange on the left thread it back on without that moved it in 5mm which will let me remove a 5mm spacer from left side and add it to the right. I currently have 2mm clearance between the brake rotor and the frame at the front and 15mm clearance between the rotor and the caliper mount. To move the wheel over an additional 2mm I would have to find a machine shop that can chuck up my disc brake threaded adapter and shave off 2mm off the back side so I can thread it on 2mm further inboard then removal of the 2mm spacer from left to right would put the rotor with a 2mm clearance again.

Aside from that I would love to run this.

OIL/TOOL BOX | SPORTSMAN FLYER MOTORBIKES

Lots of people Ive read with the Sportsman Flyer bikes use it for storage as well as mounting electronics to hide them. I could use it for mounting a small battery box for powering headlight and tail light as well as a small circuit board I would make so I can have tail light and brake lights out back but I would want wired up where tail light will light up as a brake light as well if the tail light isn't on. Would also use it to mount my CDI to hide it out of view.

Down side is looking at photos of their frames with the boxes mount they have more room than I have so I would have to custom make one and the custom made one would be so slender I don't think its worth wasting time on.

http://sportsmanflyer.com/wp-content...sman-80-11.jpg

http://sportsmanflyer.com/wp-content...sman-80-21.jpg

 

I got the crank I ordered from MB Rebel today didn't think it was going to work why I bought shims to shim what I have. Come to find out their crank clears my frame down side is instead of the right side hitting my crank from MB Rebel is just barely skipping by the frame on the left side. I would guestimate around 10 thousands of an inch. I removed the metal shim washer from between the bearing cone nut and the chain ring. In theory this allowed the bearing cone nut to fit closer to the chain ring which allowed the crank to move to the left more. Well when I reinstalled it the left arm actually hit the frame. unless something wasn't put on exactly right but I got it together and this crank arm looks so much better than that sunlite Chinese junk. The powder and finish on it is shiney and silky smooth.

I also got my BB7 calipers I mounted the front one without adjustments till I get cables. I also tried the rear out and the rotor is perfectly spaced so for me to move my wheel 7 mm to the left to get the tire centered in the frame with 1mm to 2mm difference, I will not only have to remove the 5mm spacer between the chain drive flange and the hub but I also will have to find a local machine shop that can take my disc brake mount and shave 2mm off the back side of that so the rotor will sit 2mm in further than it does now allowing me to move not just a single 5mm spacer but a 2mm spacer as well from the left side to the right.

Looks like I can make this work and the only thing I might have to do is shim out the free wheel for the crank. I am not sure but it needs to move over as its too far out in the rear for the chain to run anything close to true.

 

I keep looking at that photo posted up above as well as my original first photo I posted of that one that sold for $2500 down here. I cant help but think how much better mine looks as mine is more planned out to be a whole package that compliments each area.

Aside from that I got the cables made up for my brakes, the BB7 caliper for the rear doesn't fit right I got it fairly close to being square with the rotor but the rotor is still rotated off square. Not sure if there is a front and rear BB7 or if there is a front/rear BB7 ISO adapter bracket.

Aside from that the bike forum I am on a guy contacted me if I would be interested in building a bike for him that he would pay me $4,500 total for the bike built how he wants it but built with the attention to details as mine is. I had to tell him I would love to do that but I would need to first make sure this build of mine is going to be a good product if it is then I will feel more comfortable with taking on a order. I really hate building something and then expecting the customer to find out all the little bugs and problems. I rather find them out myself cause if you pay that much money you expect something to be rideable not something that will fall apart as you go down the street.

I also shaved 2mm off my disc brake flange and removed my 5mm spacer on the drive sprocket flange to axle hub. I then went to go move the whole wheel 7mm to the left couldn't as I found out the axle in the wheel was installed backwards. I remembered that the guy at the bike shop that built the wheel said they took the axle out and greased the bearings. I thought it was odd to say that considering my bearings for the rear hub are sealed bearings. Well they must have took it apart first before they saw they were sealed bearings. They then installed the axle backwards which caused more threads to be visible on the left side than the right side. Flipping the axle itself put it equal on both sides and the shifting of the wheel 7mm to the left worked out beautifully.

Only thing is my drive sprocket is 2mm further to the left than it was before so I hope I can flip the sprocket around to put the dished in to move the teeth closer to the wheel to get the drive chain true. The free wheel sprocket is perfectly in line so no need for spacers.

Aside from that I bought a vintage style twist throttle for my 7/8" handle bar in black that looks better than the bulky blocky CNC aluminum twist throttles.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Single...72.m2749.l2649

I also got simulated leather grips that are sewn if I can get the 7/8" grip to slip over the 1" twist throttle ill use it otherwise I am going to go with a brown vintage style coke bottle grip that is not leather.

Seat post I am looking at is the following laid back post to move the seat back more over the rear wheel.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lay-Back-Sea...ar=&rmvSB=true

I'm also looking at this seat over the hard leather seat as my reading indicates id have to buy the $200+ leather seat from UK to get one that will last as the cheap ones you find easily will deform and not support you.