I bought a kit that includes an 80cc 2 stroke engine, fuel tank, bicycle sprocket and other misc. parts to motorize a bicycle. Divorce put the project on hold.

You can probably still find them on ebay, craigslist. They were selling at the same store that sold those Honda GX clones and I had money then.

 

Well a little update so far.

I got my Sunlite double springer forks in, ordered them in 1" threaded vs 1 1/8" threadless so I can use a vintage quill style stem. Down side is this GT2A frame I purchased uses a semi integrated head set so the 1 1/8" to 1" head set adapter I purchased for $25 was not useable. So I mailed that 1" threaded fork back to Niagra for a full refund of $155. In the mean time I purchased from amazon a 1 1/8" threadless Sunlite Deluxe springer fork same as I had just in the right size. This was $99.99 and I will have it tomorrow through the wonders of Prime shipping. My first fork I ordered on the 6th and it arrived yesterday.

Aside from that most of my first stage parts came in. I have two spray cans of 1950 Dodge Red which based off Paint Ref is the same mixing code as Coke-Cola red which I read is a damn close match to 1945 Indian Red. I also got two cans of high gloss clear.

I also purchased from east wood a can of pre paint prep and a can of down to bare metal stripper so I can strip the black powder coat off the forks so I can ensure I have a good base for my paint.

I also ordered two pairs of Gold with black trim "Indian" script decals for the fuel tank. My plan is to prime and paint the frame then apply the decal then clear over the whole unit. Then come back and sand the decal area to thin the clear out to remove any raised lip. Then I will come back with a second layer of clear to blend it all in.

Aside from that due to the frame width of 150mm I picked its hard to find pre assembled wheels but I found some wheel sets that will work but I will have to get a local bike shop to lace in a Grubee 61mm HD hub to fit my frame. This hub is silver so I decided on silver wheels.

Well I am now looking at a Jake board track racer style handle bar but it comes in black only. I'm not sure how a black handle bar and black threadless stem would look on a Coke-Cola red bike with chrome/silver wheels wraped in wide white wall black tires.

Right now my thinking is two fold. I could get a black wheel set but don't know how I would match the silver hub color to the spoke/rim color to match. My second option is to have the handle bar stripped and have it powder coated in silver/chrome.

board track handlebars!

The above are the handle bars I am looking at.

I will be posting photos when I get to the point of painting which might not be this weekend as I haven't received my decals yet. I am trying to handle the frame as little as possible so I wont have to spend too much time with my eastwood Pre to prep the frame for primer.

 

Well I spent a few hours today painting on the frame today. There are some dull spots that might be over spray going to let the clear dry for a bit then try to use my white polish pad and #2 compound and see if I cant gloss it up. If not I will go over the area with Eastwood Pre to clean the polish off and will lightly sand the area and shoot more clear. The polish should keep the over spray off the other area and should allow me to blend it all in through polishing.

Anyways these are the photos I said I would take when I got the frame out for painting.

Primered with Dupli-Color self etching primer


Base coat


Base coat w/ Script decal placed


First coat of clear


Second coat of clear


Third and final coat of clear


The color I used is 1949/1950 Dodge Red I bought two spray cans mixed by CustomAutoTouchup.com. I also bought two cans of high gloss clear from the same people. The color I picked was because on PaintRef.com the mixing code for 1949/1950 Dodge Red is the same code for Coke-Cola Red. I read this one old timer said the closest match to 1940-1948 Indian Red is Coke-Cola Red and that his bike was touched up by professionals when fairly new with Coke-Cola Red when Indian Red was not available.

I didn't do my forks, I will be mounting head set using Red and Tacky #2 grease for the head set, wheel hubs, and crank bearings. But I want to mount the head set first then semi install my fork and threadless stem to mark my steer tube length so I can chop it to length then I will use my Eastwood Down to Metal paint and powder stripper to strip the black powder coat off and start fresh on painting it to match the bike.

I have changed my plans a little bit how ever. I will be going more for a subdued chrome appearance. Handle bars and threadless stem will be black, crank will be black along with seat post being black. The pedals themselves will be black with chrome trim, grips will be black with chrome trim and the springer fork will have black bushings and chrome springs for the spring part. The wheels will be chrome with stainless steel spokes, the chain guards will be chrome and that should be all the chrome on this bike.

 

Looking good!

 

This is coming together very nicely..good job Rusty..

 

Thanks, Only thing is I am having to do some touch up. I re hung the frame the opposite way today and found the back side due to lack of light I missed one spot on a weld seam by the rear drop out it had some primer showing through so I touched that up with a quick spray of red. I also found the down tubes on the back side are kind of dull as it appears I might have missed them after my first or second pass of clear. So I don't know if I will be clearing the whole frame again or just trying to blend in these areas and buff out the over spray on the areas that are good.

I think to save time and clear coat I will only try to touch up the dull areas and avoid the areas that are presentable. I don't think I will try to gloss up the tank anymore even though I think it could use more.

 

Heres a couple pictures I took yesterday after I removed all the masking.



And this one here shows more of the frame you can see the dull spot I am talking about near the seat post tube. The top of the tube I'm not too concerned with shine as there is a clamp that goes there to lock the seat post in place. But the top and side and underside of the tank I am concerned about right here.



Part of me is concerned that using my white buff pad (the ultra fine one used for show car finishes) will not be able to polish up the over spray areas where its dull. So part of me wants to spray more clear on it before hand the other part of me wants to just live with it and be slightly disappointed in it.

In any case I will be building two, first one will be a 2 stroke second I want to use a 4 stroke 212cc predator engine as they have aftermarket performance parts like cams and pistons for them compared to the 2 stroke having to grind on the cylinder to change the port timing.

 

I used the 3M white pad on some over spray on my doors and it removed it no problem if that any help..it looks damn good to me Rusty.

 

It looks good its just theres some dull spots. I also don't know if I need to sit this frame out in the sun but I was using my home made screw press to press the bearing cups into the head tube. One nut I dropped about 4 inches to the top of the tank and it put a straight line dimple in the finish. Seems the finish is still soft even though its been curing since Saturday around 1:30pm.

I cant finish my assembly as one bearing is tweaked and is egg shaped so it doesn't mesh with the race properly and doesn't sit flush enough for me to attempt to dry fit my fork so I can mark it for cutting.

 

From what I understand the clear takes a good 30 days to cure and even longer the more coats you spray..

 

Ah, I put three good layers on first layer was thin second was some what thicker and the third layer was glossy wet thick.

Might have to wait to polish till after 30 days or so cause might burn through the clear if its this soft still.

 

On my truck I started wet sanding the following day and then the polishing process but I sprayed 4 coats..

 

I don't think I'm going to do any sanding I think I am just going to use my white buff pad and my #2 compound and try to buff the overspray out. I'm beyond trying to get a show car shine I will be happy with just a uniform shine.

 

I have big flat panels and had to get rid of the orange peel..

 

Take your time and do it right, you don't want to assemble and then have to go back to paint. Just my $0.02