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Been a while and Ive made some progress. How ever progress is on hold as work is just starting to pick up and I really need to hold off on spending money and build my bank account back up.
Anyways as of today I took some updated photos to show the Avid BB7 MTN brake calipers mounted front and rear, still need to figure out how to rotate the rear caliper clock wise as the pads are at roughly a 45* angle to the rotor and is half on the rotor and half off. I can slide the wheel back some and it will slide back some to tension the chain. I also have some pictures below showing the 7/8 motorcycle style twist throttle I bought as I wanted something vintage and metal not plastic. This also has a sleek vintage look to it vs the bulky blocky look of the CNC made ones. I just don't know if I should keep the black jack hammer style grip which came pre installed.
I bought some synthetic leather grips from Velo in brown probably wont fit this as the twist throttle is 1". I am thinking of getting the brown/tan Coke bottle grips in rubber at least the brown I think would blend in with the brown Velo seat I am wanting to get.
Not yet. I was saving that for last as the motor will come with a 1 year warranty so I want to get that last so it doesn't sit for some reason and end up out of warranty.
I was looking at the Zeda 80 Weekend Warrior kit for $118 but Zeda Motorsports now only have 2 pages of engine and engine kits where they had 8. The Weekend Warrior kit isn't listed so I don't know what is going on.
I found the kit they still offer it just they call it the Weekend Special now.
I thought of buying it but I still got to buy some go fast goodies like high compression head, aftermarket CDI ignition box, maybe a 12V generator I found on ebay for $44 that everyone swears by. Down side is its 12V AC not DC so I cant run LED lighting have to run conventional bulbs which will have a flicker at low speeds.
Well I was looking at 2 stroke tachs today couldn't really find anything definite. But I came across this one website that sold Voltage Regulator/Rectifiers for motorcycles.
Well I was told about this from the motor bicycle forum I am on and was told it works great it puts out 12V AC how ever but it doesn't eat power from the actual magneto that powers the ignition system of the engine so this magneto should not put much of a load on the engine unless you are powering a lot of electrical stuff.
Problem is the head light and tail light, which the tail light I am seriously looking at going with a glass lens Duolamp, I would use the right side one without the license plate light window. I don't know if I would get the one with the "STOP" lens or just the one with two red glass lens. But anyways the headlight and tail light I want to convert by using 12v LED light strips stuck on the inside. With the Duolamp I was going to link the two grounds together and have the strip for the tail light powered through a switch that will provide power to the headlight as well. The brake light would receive power through a momentary switch if I do the brake light route.
Well problem I would have is 12V LEDs are DC not AC. In comes the Regulator/Rectifier I found. I don't know which one to go with there are many different ones I have found. I think I need just a regular 4 wire one but ive seen 4 thru 8 wire regulator/rectifier versions.
But below is a photo of a wiring schematic I drew up on how I think I would wire it up. I believe one of the AC input wires would have to bolt to the housing of the generator or to the housing of the motor itself. The two wires black and red coming out of the regulator/rectifier would be my 12V DC power and ground so I cant ground to the motor as the ground on the engine would all be AC not DC.
Aside from that I have to ask does anyone on here know about these regulator/rectifiers and which one I should be looking at because I do not want to run a battery since this generator will only be running LED lights just to make it street legal as Texas transportation code for bicycles is they have to have a headlight and a tail light to be legal on the road. Trick is a reflector is considered a light but it also says headlight and tail light has to be visible 300 feet away. Sorry but a bicycle reflector will not be visible 300 feet away as a properly aligned headlight will not shine 300 feet ahead of a car unless they have high beams on but anyways I am just wanting to do this to have functionality incase I do get stopped by a cop and harassed.
Well just ordered the engine from Zeda, I got their Zeda 80 engine which is a true triple 40 engine (means front mount 40mm x piston stroke 40mm x intake bolt spacing 40mm). Sadly I sat on my hands till I had money to make the purchase without having to stress over lack of funds since work still isn't really picking up. Well me sitting on my hands I missed out on the free reed valve so I have to buy my own reed valve.
No big deal on that as I wont be mounting the engine just yet as I want to get some upgrade parts for the engine I really want to get the $200 steel lined cylinder so I can really bump compression up without having to fear chrome flaking off the cylinder wiping the engine out.
Aside from that I am going to have to sit my bike out in the sun for the day as my clear is a little soft for some reason. I turned my handle bars straight earlier today and my brake cable which was leaning up against the steer tube actually stuck to the clear and created a indention in the clear. Not sure what could cause the clear to act like that. Its not like I mixed the paint myself so I know its mixed right, its also not like I rushed I followed the cans to a T on wait time.
Aside from that I am done worrying about it I don't even think I will be touching the frame up where the primer came off down to bare aluminum. I still cant grasp why is it called self etching primer but yet the can states you have to use like 80 grit sand paper to scuff the surface up. Umm isn't that the whole f-ing point of the self etching primer is that it etches the metal as you paint for excellent adhesion. But nope where it scrapes off it scrapes off down to bare aluminum.
Well due to the weather I am still awaiting for my engine. Its currently delayed in Orlando due to weather. Since our airports are still closed down here I don't know when I will get it. Like wise two amazon orders through prime I am still waiting on they are about a week behind due date due to the weather and last update was from two days ago on the seat post it just arrived in Humble the seat which was ordered at the same time via prime has no updates since it shipped out with the seat post. I'm also awaiting on my small $25 dremel and Burr bit set to be shipped, my Oz reed valve has been shipped yesterday.
Aside from that I got a reply from Fred he recommended a 7.0CC head for use in Texas with the engine I have picked, the mods I plan to do and for use with the expansion chamber exhaust and Oz Reed valve. So I will be ordering that but cant as he has a option for fine thread or coarse thread cylinder studs. I don't know what these are so I cant order the head till I get the engine. Then after I order the head 2 to 3 weeks for fulfillment of the order as he machines these heads himself.
Got the engine in, took the jug to work today and did a little porting on it. I knifed the transfer passages on the bottom of the jug to help give a smoother transision to the transfers without having a flat blunt edge. I also used a burr bit a reverse cone one and tried to smooth out the inside ridge on the transfers as best as I could at the cylinder bore. Couldn't get it as smooth as I wanted and I didn't want to risk changing the shape of the transfers too much.
I did a little shaping on the exhaust port but haven't done anything on intake/exhaust ports more than that. I really want to wait till I have my reed valve in so I can port match the reed valve to the intake port itself.
I know I was advised to take and push the intake and exhaust ports to 24mm oval in width but not to raise or lower the port as it will change the port timing.
I measured my jug and currently intake is 22.71mm diameter oval. Exhaust is 20.85mm round.
Not sure if I want to try my hand at widening the intake and exhaust port into ovals at 24mm. Intake wouldn't be a problem that's just going from almost 23mm to 24mm. But now almost 21mm to 24mm is a bit more. I really want to get my exhaust first to see if its round or oval on the exit. That will determine what I do.
As of now I am thinking of keeping the ports like they are just maybe use a fine sanding drum on my dremel and smooth out and polish the ports themselves up.
Another thing is I have to get my window piston ordered so as my 7.0cc fred head is coming in and I need to check my quench. I might have to deck the jug some to get proper quench. Automotive quench is 0.038" - 0.043". For this 69cc 2 stroke I was advised to set quench around 0.012" - 0.024" which my middle ground would be 0.018" is what I would shoot for. Depending on how much I have to take off hopefully if I have to deck the jug some hopefully its not 0.023" as that will cause a 1cc drop in combustion chamber size and will result in my 7.0cc head running like a 6.0cc head instead.
Well still waiting to put the engine together. Zeda in Florida hopes to have shipments heading out today or tomorrow. I am just waiting on a windowed piston and my MZ65 chrome expansion chamber exhaust. Once I get this in I can check quench as well as do port matching between the cylinder jug`s exhaust port and exhaust manifold. Once all that checks out its off to paint.
I decided to go with a VHT metallic engine paint called Black Pearl. I wanted a satin black not a flat black but only VHT engine paint I found was flat black. So only other option was Black pearl which wasn't listed as flat but my test piece I painted is a nice satin finish.
Hope to upload some pics of the cylinder jug after port work and pics of my Fred Head and my Oz Reed valve later today.
Heres some eye candy for those that are interested.
First pic is of the Oz Reed valve that I installed after port matching the Reed Valve to the Cylinder jug.
Second pic is of the Oz Reed Valve and the port matching that was done on the cylinder jug.
Third is two pics of the Fred Head I got from Fred who owns his own machine shop that machined this 7.0cc Stage 2 head out of a solid chunk of billet aluminum.
Aside from that I am awaiting for Zeda in Florida to get back to shipping fully so I can get my Windowed piston kit and my MZ65 chrome expansion chamber exhaust. Once I get this I can do my final port matching and do an assembly to check for quench and see what adjustments I need to make to get quench in the area I want it.
After that I will disassemble the engine again and mask it off and paint it. I am going to use VHT Metallic Engine paint, color is going to be Black Pearl as I couldn't find a satin finish VHT branded Black engine paint. Didn't want gloss and didn't want flat. This will be a satin finish just have some metallic metal flakes in it.
The Cylinder head and Oz Reed valve I am going to spray with VHT`s Header spray paint that is a Satin Clear. I cant bring myself to spray those works of art out of Billet aluminum with Black Pearl paint. I also cant stand to let them oxidize so I will coat them with clear to protect them and keep them looking fresh.
Well here are photos I took today. Ran the bike its loud as hell so will have to find a baffle or a muffler or something to tone it back some. But here are some pics from today after I polished the finish and polished the chrome out.
The seat post, I have the saddle but keep getting sent the wrong size seat post from what I order. I also have some minor issues to resolve. Like the splines are damaged on my clutch cam so my clutch cam arm twisted on me. So I got a new cam and cam arm coming in to replace it.
Another problem I have I thought I fixed it but I just checked about 5 hours later and the brass fitting threaded into my fuel tank is leaking fuel again. I don't know if I should drain the fuel out tomorrow apply more than 3 wraps of the Teflon tape or if I should find like a brass washer and try to use a crush washer technique with Teflon tape. I just don't get it because I tapped the fuel tank aluminum bung since the threads were messed up to be 1/4" pipe so 1/4" pipe threads with 1/4" pipe fitting it should seal without Teflon tape. But it looks like the fuel is eating up the 3 wraps of the blue Teflon tape I used which is supposed to be fuel oil safe. Wonder if I should try 6 wraps. The tape itself on the roll says to do 3 wraps.
Aside from that the only thing left to do is decide how to modify my front fender to make it fit the bracket riveted on is too long so it will not fit my front forks. I also need to find a headlight and figure out how to power my 12V tail light/brake light. I was going to get a 12V generator but decided against it because I am running out of room to hide systems on this bike so I cant hide a 12V regulator/rectifier. So I am thinking of using a modest sized plastic project box and make my wiring hook ups in the box for my tail light and headlight and then buy one of those eight AA battery boxes to provide 12V for my tail light and headlight. I figure it should give me decent time for light since I am going LED.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
