Same. Had so much trouble with the others, I'm hesitant to spend more $$ to try again.

 

What's the best way to get to the lights? The manual says you can remove the windshield washer fill tube on one side and the air inlet tube on the othe side, but it's a little vague on the details. Of course, the grill and light assemblies can be removemed, but that's a lot of screwing around...

 

That is how I did it, I didn't remove the grille or anyting, just the parts you mentioned, the hard part was getting to the lower bulbs. I change with hid so leds should be way easier. By the way, remember we are still waiting to ship the cancelers for the lower bulbs that flicker when the DRLs are on. Turn off DRls meanwhile until receiving the cancelers. We will ship just one set to TRICON to double check it works and then move to all the other testers. Thank you!

 

I want to share with you a full test comparison we did for led Headlights vs hids, halogen bulbs and the cheaper led kits we call "all in one". I hope this helps those that are looking to upgrade their headlights to a real option.

Go to vanquishauto.com/led-comparison

 

Thanks for posting that VA. Curious if you guys have access to a SuperDuty w factory LEDs? Would be really interesting to see the test numbers next to a factory baseline... for me its hard to quantify how 534 lumens at 100' translates into usability. If I could see that its a percentage(better or worse) than factory, it makes more sense. I get that its x better than the ebay "cheapies" but thats really hard to say that equates to good, usable light.

In the test, a comment is made about how the Hids are more difficult to install. Can you touch on what the difference is? I am not married to a trend, (LED)... I just want the best (most usable light improvement) upgrade I can purchase. These factory non LEDs are mediocre at best and driving me nuts!

Also, if getting the HiD lights, what are the options for the rest of the bulbs, still LEDs Id imagine?

Thanks for the info and trying to educate us!

 

I could just drop by the dealer at night and run the test on the factory led but I would rather bring it to the same spot to keep it in line with the test we did and take the same pictures. As I'm using the obstacles at the end of the 180ft for reference, you can't see them with the halogens or the ebay cheapies but you can clearly see them with our hids and led kit.

I'm glad to see you are not thinking one way( led). As you could see the hids proved to be way brighter and the cutoff wasn't as bad and about the same as the led. The hids are not difficult to install by any means, but for some reason it's becoming a stereotype, same as all hids are the same and discontinued which are not true. Or I wouldn't be able to install on seriously complicated vehicles like the 2016+ RAM.

The lumens at different distances is meant for giving us an idea of how many usable lumens we really get when driving and how much help of the light you get from each distance. Remember this was just one bulb. So for example, if there is an obstacle at 180 ft and your halogens won't get past 120ft there is more chance you will strike this obstacle at night because you didn't see it. If you had the hids or leds there is more chance to step on the brakes on time. To put it into perspective, the led pendant on my walk in closet is putting out a solid 20 lumens, the master bed led lamp about 450. The dedicated led backup lights we make have 1051 lumens per bulb, very bright.

I know you might hate your headlights right now compared to the led ones but I can guarantee you that they have WAY more potential. Just wait until the aftermarket releases a good workable set. We are building quad projector headlights every day for the 2011-2016 and the new headlights are a MUCH better base to start something remarkable.

 

Still no one has tried these yet ?

 

I removed the filler tube and air inlet, but I can't budge any of the factory lights. They won't rotate at all in the reflector housing. They may simply be stuck, but, unless I'm missing something, I think I'm going to have to remove the grill and light assemblies to get them out.

 

Yes, the members that are posting about the install have gotten them already but you won't see their reviews here. They will be individually posted on separate threads I think.

 

I had the same issue with them being "stuck". I kept thinking to myself, "who the heck put these things in?? THOR???"

I finally brought a good friend in who has some NFL linebacker hands and he broke em all loose. He even had some major indentions in his hands from trying so hard. There is a YouTube video where a guy took the grille and headlights out completely because he couldn't get the bulbs loose. He used some pliers to finally loosen em. So that is another option if yours are still stuck.

 

I'm just waiting on the cancellers to post my review. And yes the stock ones were an act of God to remove.

 

I got the passenger side out with out any issues.... the drivers side are stuck like chuck.... I have taken the washer tube out probably a half dozen times, and just tried a few times with the engine bay at different temps thinking maybe the gaskets were stuck. No luck.

I have been driving around in a BRAND NEW truck with two LEDs and two factory bulbs... I am sure I am getting some odd looks.

 

I do have another issue that I ran into...

On the rear lights, I changed out all three bulbs (in each side) with LEDs. Now, if the lights are off, when I turn on my blinker, all the blinkers activate (like I have my hazards on). Only the blinkers come on if the lights are activated... I have added decoders to kill the hyper flash, but that didn't do anything for the blinkers in the back.

I am seriously thinking about going back to stock blinkers in the rear, and just leaving the LED in the reverse lights.... I am honestly tired of messing with them. Every day I regret even getting the idea in my head to change to LEDs.

 

Maybe you could post a link to where anyone who has installed them has posted the results. Tricon is the only one I've seen and he's waiting for more parts parts.

 

I would definitely try the original bulbs as a troubleshooting measure, but I wouldn't give up on the LEDs just yet.

To make sure I am getting an accurate picture, if the park lights and/or headlights are on, the turn signals work correctly, otherwise all 4 turn signals (front and rear) flash? What happens when the brake lights are activated? So they work correctly both with and without the headlights/park lights turned on?