When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The ICP Volts drop causing less power - then ECM is commanding VGT to increase in order to compensate and keep MPH.
I would agree, but the ICP voltage dropped for 2 seconds, MAP stayed down for more, from 16-22 before recovering. Map wend down, forced boost down, demand dropped, IPR responded to a less power command.
It appears that MAP forced the drop, RPM never moved.
Engine RPM dropped when ICPV dropped at 22.
Why I asked for VRef. Really wished he was close to me and we could swap MAP sensors.
- Look at the Filter Reminder thing and replace the air filter if it is not fresh, does the air filter smell like mold? is it heavy? Is this OEM of aftermarket air filtration?
- Look for an intake leak between MAF and Turbo Inlet, this makes the most sense based upon the cyclical nature of your log, the leak is good sized leak and could be hiding within those bellows or a clamp that is not sealed
- Buy a can of MAF cleaner and clean that bad boy
- CCV vents into the Turbo Inlet after MAF, inspect, clean, drive and inspect again to gage if crank case pressure is pushing anything into the Turbo Inlet
- The speed sensor for the instrument cluster is on the rear differential, long shot but has any work been done back there? What size tires are you running? I'm not certain if this sensor is utilized by the cruise control or if it uses a transmission sensor, any work done on the transmission recently?
- Does this motor have the actual throttle body on the horn? I think it is deleted but I'm looking for anything that could block or stumble the air flow - if there inspect
- What is the exhaust? OEM or aftermarket? If OEM there is the remote possibility that the internals of the muffler has collapsed
- Look at the Filter Reminder thing and replace the air filter if it is not fresh, does the air filter smell like mold? is it heavy? Is this OEM of aftermarket air filtration?
- Look for an intake leak between MAF and Turbo Inlet, this makes the most sense based upon the cyclical nature of your log, the leak is good sized leak and could be hiding within those bellows or a clamp that is not sealed
- Buy a can of MAF cleaner and clean that bad boy
- CCV vents into the Turbo Inlet after MAF, inspect, clean, drive and inspect again to gage if crank case pressure is pushing anything into the Turbo Inlet
- The speed sensor for the instrument cluster is on the rear differential, long shot but has any work been done back there? What size tires are you running? I'm not certain if this sensor is utilized by the cruise control or if it uses a transmission sensor, any work done on the transmission recently?
- Does this motor have the actual throttle body on the horn? I think it is deleted but I'm looking for anything that could block or stumble the air flow - if there inspect
- What is the exhaust? OEM or aftermarket? If OEM there is the remote possibility that the internals of the muffler has collapsed
Had air filter out when I did the turbo. Its 5 or 6 years old but still looks new. Cleaned MAF meter and I've done the CCV mod about 6 years ago. No rear end work and running 35inch tires Trans shifts fine and no work has ever been done to it other than maintenance. No throttle horn and no muffler or cat. Have been running a 4inch turbo back for years. Thanks
Had air filter out when I did the turbo. Its 5 or 6 years old but still looks new.
Replace the air filter with a new OEM, not aftermarket, it is way over due even if the Filter Reminder says otherwise. Chances are the Filter Reminder also needs to be replaced. Even if you have been driving the truck in a sterile bubble for the past 6 years, replace the air filter. Compare the weight of your old air filter with the new one on a scale. With that, Your truck will probably balance out as long as the intake path between Turbo Inlet and MAF is sealed.
Replace the air filter with a new OEM, not aftermarket, it is way over due even if the Filter Reminder says otherwise. Chances are the Filter Reminder also needs to be replaced. Even if you have been driving the truck in a sterile bubble for the past 6 years, replace the air filter. Compare the weight of your old air filter with the new one on a scale. With that, Your truck will probably balance out as long as the intake path between Turbo Inlet and MAF is sealed.
I've already got one on the way. I figured it was do anyway wven before I posted my problem. Lol
I'm going to follow also. I've done everything but MAP sensor so far. Most say they shouldn't go bad but I guess I should just swap it and see how it performs
Let us know how that works out - very interesting problem to solve.
I'll keep everyone informed. I was told the filter minder was a good indicator as to when to change the filter. But when I checked the date on the filter when did the turbo I seen it had been awhile.
WatsonR Here is some more data that I took on the way home this morning. I went the long way home and had some stop and go driving. also had a couple of times I had it on the floor and I think it only made 20psi. I think it was line 470.
I'm wondering if my issue is the same. I have an 04 f250 6.0 bulletproofed, with no upgrades except an air cooler. I am waiting for my scan Guage 2 to come in the mail. my truck feels like it idles fine, and runs fine until I reach 60mph to 70mph. I think the transmission goes in to overdrive and then it feels like it is sputtering. I took the ebp out and cleaned it yesterday, and that seemed to improve response a lot, but the problem is still there. I put treatment in my gas, and some mystery oil to see if maybe the injectors are a little dirty and causing the truck to sputter during low rpm high load like overdrive situation but I'm pretty sure it will be a while before that makes any difference. The symptoms stop if I lay in to the pedal, or if I take my foot off. it's weird, just between 60 and 70. Not trying to hijack the thread just wondering if it might be the same issue and if anyone ever figured it out. Thanks
I'm wondering if my issue is the same. I have an 04 f250 6.0 bulletproofed, with no upgrades except an air cooler. I am waiting for my scan Guage 2 to come in the mail. my truck feels like it idles fine, and runs fine until I reach 60mph to 70mph. I think the transmission goes in to overdrive and then it feels like it is sputtering. I took the ebp out and cleaned it yesterday, and that seemed to improve response a lot, but the problem is still there. I put treatment in my gas, and some mystery oil to see if maybe the injectors are a little dirty and causing the truck to sputter during low rpm high load like overdrive situation but I'm pretty sure it will be a while before that makes any difference. The symptoms stop if I lay in to the pedal, or if I take my foot off. it's weird, just between 60 and 70. Not trying to hijack the thread just wondering if it might be the same issue and if anyone ever figured it out. Thanks
Mines just boost droping off. Lack of power down low and boost jumps up then drops off. Truck runs fine and shifts fine. If you weren't paying attention you wouldn't notice it. I'm just use to the way it drives and noticed it was off.
Went over truck today all boots good and up-pipe connection is good. Can't find any leaks anywhere. Wiggling the connections on EBP,MAP,VGT does nothing.