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Old Feb 13, 2017 | 04:26 PM
  #61  
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[QUOTE=knottyrope;16948675]pull the chip with batteries removed, then continue with testing
so by pulling the chip out it automatically brings the truck to stock?
the box is left exposed like that?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2017 | 05:27 PM
  #62  
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From: Bahstun
It's exposed to cabin not outside. Cover with duct tape?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2017 | 06:50 PM
  #63  
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so i removed all battery cables.
went to remove the chip and it was soooo lose. so i removed the chip and put battery cables back on and turned the key and again still no WTS.
took the cables off again put the chip back onto the PCM reinstalled the battery cables and again nothing. i couldnt believe it. i thought i found the issue.
so i went back to check the socket #9 and #22 for power and there wasnt power there!!!
when i checked it yesterday i had power to both of those sockets.
i going to lose my mind. im telling you i had to be the chip.
what happened to my power to the sockets? wierd
 
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Old Feb 13, 2017 | 07:12 PM
  #64  
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I mentioned it earlier but I don't think you commented on it. Do you have someone that can loan you a good pcm that you can test? It would go a long way on narrowing down issues. No power to those fuses is a main issue though.

Can you swap the pcm from one of the trucks listed in your signature?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2017 | 07:51 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by kupiec20
ok
im moving in the rite direction thanks to you all...
i have power to fuse #9 and #22
as simple as it seems to most i just figured out how to use a multimeter

knowing that i have power to both what does that tell me now?
truck cranks but no start and no WTS light.
Are you SURE you have 12 volts on BOTH sides of fuse #22 with the key on? Check it with the fuse in place. Turn the key on, set your meter to read 12v DC, touch the black lead of the meter to the Neg battery terminal. Touch each one of the little metal things on top the fuse on either side of the number with the red lead. You should have 12v on both of them with the key on.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2017 | 04:21 AM
  #66  
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From: DARTMOUTH MA
shouldn't I have power at the #9 & #22 sockets even is the PCM is bad?
 
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Old Feb 14, 2017 | 05:35 AM
  #67  
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Yes you should
 
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Old Feb 14, 2017 | 12:54 PM
  #68  
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From: Bahstun
Here is some of the wiring for you


 
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 03:19 PM
  #69  
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From: DARTMOUTH MA
Can someone lead me in the rite direction on buying a PCM?
 
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 03:25 PM
  #70  
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From: Bahstun
are you sure its the PCM?


have you verified voltages at the fuses and is the PCM relay pulling in?
 
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 03:27 PM
  #71  
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I can help you get a pcm but first lets be sure you need one. Who do you think that?
 
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 04:22 PM
  #72  
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When my PCM took a dive the WTS and all other lights still turned on, have you check if the WTS light is working?
 
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 06:36 PM
  #73  
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From: DARTMOUTH MA
I have no other answers.
So update. I have NO WTS light.
I checked both fuses (#9-#22)
and they both checked out good.
I have 12v going to both of those sockets.
Then i took the horn relay and swaped it out with the PCM relay and still no start.
I also removed the chip and still no start?
Other than the PCM what else have i missed?
Ty
 
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 07:13 PM
  #74  
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I'm talking about the actual bulb it self burning out.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2017 | 08:20 PM
  #75  
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@Adam

Is this like when the charge lamp in the dash burns out and the alternator stops working?
 

Last edited by nateairman; Feb 15, 2017 at 11:08 PM. Reason: Spelling
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