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Old Feb 10, 2017 | 07:13 PM
  #31  
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Bubba Jones
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In the picture in this link, it shows where the pcm relay is:

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/er...uel_heater.png

It's the bottom right relay in the underhood fusebox panel. You can switch the pcm relay with the horn relay (if your horn works) to see if maybe your relay is bad.

If your WTS start light is NOT coming on, then there's a 99% chance that you are not getting power to the PCM so you should spend your time trying to get the WTS light to come on first, so you know that you are getting power to the PCM.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 02:44 PM
  #32  
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From: DARTMOUTH MA
Originally Posted by Bubba Jones
In the picture in this link, it shows where the pcm relay is:

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/er...uel_heater.png

It's the bottom right relay in the underhood fusebox panel. You can switch the pcm relay with the horn relay (if your horn works) to see if maybe your relay is bad.

If your WTS start light is NOT coming on, then there's a 99% chance that you are not getting power to the PCM so you should spend your time trying to get the WTS light to come on first, so you know that you are getting power to the PCM.
Electronics i am VERY weak.
So hang with me.
So do i need to have the key turned on to the run position to test the fuse box sockets?
 
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 02:52 PM
  #33  
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Depends on the circuit. Some fused circuits are dependent on the key in RUN, some are not. Off the top of my head, fuses #9 and 22 are both dependent on the key. I'd have to check the EVTM to know about the sockets for the relays. If you're going to maintain your own truck, a full set of FSMs, esp. the EVTM, is essential. Along with a multimeter and the basics of electricity.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 03:16 PM
  #34  
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From: DARTMOUTH MA
Ok
I put a multimeter to the fuses (9&22) and PCM relay
They checked out good.
Then i put the multimeter to socket #22 and that was good
But socket #9 had no power to it.
Same with the relay socket.
With key turned on
 
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 07:32 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by kupiec20
Ok
I put a multimeter to the fuses (9&22) and PCM relay
They checked out good.
Then i put the multimeter to socket #22 and that was good
But socket #9 had no power to it.
Same with the relay socket.
With key turned on
Not sure if I understand what you are saying correctly but if I do then your truck will not run until forever without power running through #9. It powers all of the stuffs to do that - PCM, PCM Relay, IDM, IPR, trans something or nother etc.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 07:44 PM
  #36  
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From: DARTMOUTH MA
Originally Posted by redman84
Not sure if I understand what you are saying correctly but if I do then your truck will not run until forever without power running through #9. It powers all of the stuffs to do that - PCM, PCM Relay, IDM, IPR, trans something or nother etc.
I was asked to make sure #9/fuse #22 and also the PCM relay was good.
All three checked out good. Then i checked out the sockets that the fuses go into and fuse socket #22 checked out good.
But i checked fuse socket #9 there wasnt any power going to that socket.
So what does that tell me?
Ty for helping
 
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 07:54 PM
  #37  
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So you're saying that the socket for fuse #9 has no power when checking for voltage (did you check both pins to make sure you were on the right side? I'm not sure which side is the output side and which is the input so if you're checking with the fuse out, you should probe both pins on the fuse slot.)

If that's the case, like redman84 said, your truck will definitely not run. Fuse #9 is the power fuse for the PCM, so if it's not getting power to that fuse, your computer isn't turning on.


I don't know the wiring too well for this whole circuit, but apparently this fuse "commonly" blows because the transmission wiring harness rubs against the driveshaft/body wearing out some wires and shorting the fuse out.

Now I know you said the fuse was good so that's probably not happening in your case, but it's worth it to check that wiring harness and the front driveshaft area just to be safe.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 07:55 PM
  #38  
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That is a problem if not THE problem. I don't have a schematic handy at the moment to say where to look next but I bet one of these other fellas probably already knows.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 09:58 PM
  #39  
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I would say to jump a protected 12v to the fused side of the 9 socket and see if it fires, however you have to be 100% sure you are doing it correctly. You don't want to use an infused jumper and wreck more crap. But if it works then you need to trace the fuse 9 power wire back to the positive post on the battery.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2017 | 10:39 PM
  #40  
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Disconnect the two small wires from the glow plug relay and tape the ends up so they don't touch anything. See if you have a WTS light after disconnecting those wires.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2017 | 08:08 AM
  #41  
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From: DARTMOUTH MA
Originally Posted by ReBilld
Disconnect the two small wires from the glow plug relay and tape the ends up so they don't touch anything. See if you have a WTS light after disconnecting those wires.
Ok i disconnected both wires at the GPR and still no WTS light.
So im still not getting power to the #9 socket.
As i was taking the wires off the GPR i noticed a wire had a chafed wire.
(The wire going to my fuel bowl heater which i had disconnected months ago.
Could this be the issue?
 
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Old Feb 12, 2017 | 08:22 AM
  #42  
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From: DARTMOUTH MA
 
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Old Feb 12, 2017 | 10:14 AM
  #43  
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It would be an issue if it were touching a ground. Tape it off and see what happens. Follow it back to the harness; it may be chafed further up.

How exactly are you measuring for voltage at the fuse #9 socket?
 
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Old Feb 12, 2017 | 11:15 AM
  #44  
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From: DARTMOUTH MA
Originally Posted by madpogue
It would be an issue if it were touching a ground. Tape it off and see what happens. Follow it back to the harness; it may be chafed further up.

How exactly are you measuring for voltage at the fuse #9 socket?



This is ehat im using<br/>If theeter beeps its good<br/>If not its not. Rite?<br/>It worked for #22 and the fuses.<br/>Not sure if its the correct way thty
 
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Old Feb 12, 2017 | 11:31 AM
  #45  
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That appears to be both a voltmeter and a continuity tester. Are you checking for voltage or continuity? And where are you putting the probes?
 
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