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I think they added the "C" clip and did away with the external retainer in 83 or maybe 83 was the last year?
Anyways, that is a decent upgrade IMO. Anytime you can go around opening the diff up to do tasks like changing U joints in the front axles then that is time and money saved.
Did he do the upgrade where they add a spring to the stub axle to keep it engaged? A lot of offroad guys do this so the pumpkin doesn't have to be opened up and a fix can be done more easily in the field should the passenger side axle shaft have an issue. I believe they also use a stub from a D50 to do this.
When I put a Lock Right in the front axle of my '95 F-150 I had to eliminate the C-clip (it didn't fit with the Lock Right). It didn't involve going back to the old style retainer, it was like you said, adding a spring. If I recall, it was just a relatively stiff compression spring in the slip joint in the right half shaft. That pushed the outer stub out unto the hub, and the inner side into the diff. So once you took the right spindle off you could slide the entire axle out of the diff housing.
Yes, that was how I understood it NS. Also, a lot of guys will use the stub out of a D50 because it is a little more robust. Although an HD44 may already have the same heavier stub in it.
I think they added the "C" clip and did away with the external retainer in 83 or maybe 83 was the last year?
Anyways, that is a decent upgrade IMO. Anytime you can go around opening the diff up to do tasks like changing U joints in the front axles then that is time and money saved.
The definitive source for all things Bullnose says of the dates "So, the change-over appears to have been between model years 1982 & 1983, with '82 and earlier trucks using the retainer plate and '83 and later trucks using the snap ring." And, he backs that up with lots of obscure stuff from a catalog of some kind.
As for upgrades, while he was in there a new 3.54 ring and pinion, an Eaton True Trac differential, and Warn Premium hubs were also installed. Not to mention new ball joints, tie rod ends, etc.
Yup. There's one on both ends. New ones. And new ring and pinions. And, and, and, and.......... With those tires and diffs it is gonna be fun to get it off the road.
The definitive source for all things Bullnose says of the dates "So, the change-over appears to have been between model years 1982 & 1983, with '82 and earlier trucks using the retainer plate and '83 and later trucks using the snap ring." And, he backs that up with lots of obscure stuff from a catalog of some kind.
As for upgrades, while he was in there a new 3.54 ring and pinion, an Eaton True Trac differential, and Warn Premium hubs were also installed. Not to mention new ball joints, tie rod ends, etc.
I cant help , but wonder if the various part numbers had anything to do with the variety of carriers the D44 TTB used?
I'll be interested in hearing how the True Trac does on snowy/icy freeways (if this truck ever sees that). I know that anything other than an open diff will cause the steering to pull away from the tire that has better traction. And I know that a Lock Right (or any other automatic locker) is dangerous in how much, how fast and how far it will pull. Personally I'm not willing to try anything like a TrueTrac in a front axle, but I've heard they do OK there. But then again I've never heard a report on how they work on a snowy freeway.
Bob - I hope to get it out on something slippery and find out how the Tru Trac does. But, it won't be this round as I'm still pondering why it won't start. GO AWAY, ICE!
Jim - I'll look for the tag, but not at the mo. There's a sheet of ice in that driveway. Shame I can't get the truck in the shop, but Dad's truck is on the lift. Hmmm, maybe I can move the mountain of parts someone put under Dad's truck, put Dad's on skates and roll it forward, and then get Big Blue in the shop and onto the lift. I'll try that when the weather warms a bit.
Gary, It sounds like you're getting close to what someone else on the board called "automotive ADD", having so many projects going that he couldn't focus on any of them!
Close?!?! My son says I need "intervention". But, he was quick to raise his hand and say "I want Big Blue!"
I'm going through the documentation Vernon gave me and have found several very interesting things:
2nd battery: He was planning to put an aux battery in and somewhere in that pile of stuff is what I think is a NOS aux battery tray. He'd already upgraded to a 140 amp alternator as he was also thinking of installing a winch in that Warn front bumper.
Skid plates: The truck has a skid plate under the mid-ship tank and t-case, but someone took a cutting torch to it at some point and took the inside edge off. But, there's no skid plate for the rear tank. So, he was reasearching skid plates and has a printout from the catalog showing which ones fit. As it turns out, I have the right ones in the attic off Dad's truck - and wasn't planning to put them back on due to the weight.
Hydroboost: He was planning on converting the brake system and a kit of parts is in the pile somewhere.
ADD? Absolutely! My plan, as of this 10 seconds in time, is to pull Rusty in the shop and replace the fuel pump, pull the AFR meter off, and swap the Ford air cleaner for a new Edelbrock I have - since I think a kid is going to buy it. And, probably pull the Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller because BB doesn't have one.
Then, with Rusty taken care of I'll turn to BB. Just want to find out what is going on with the engine and how expensive this is going to be.
Wow Gary, nice truck! Glad to see you got it and got it home OK. Hopefully nothing too major on the engine; I'm sure you'll get it figured out in no time.
Great education here as always with all the good to know about the axles. I'll be following along, thanks for the good read so far.
From what I have seen and heard that is one he11 of a nice truck!
Something to think about on skid plates and metal fuel tanks.
They trap a lot of dirt that stays wet.....read rots out metal fuel tanks besides the plate rotting.
This was a big deal on Jeep CJ's.
Dave ----