My 66 had a separate push button for WS fluid if that's what your asking, it was located directly above the ignition switch.

 

There were two possible switches used in 1966 depending on your serial number. If before 760,001 then a switch with 4 terminals and no built-in washer pump switch, or after 760,001 then a switch with 7 terminals and includes the built-in washer pump switch.

 

If you aren't worried about being totally dead stock then you could also opt for the later model intermittent wiper switch and governor - It also includes the washer pump switch built-in and with the governor it can give the intermittent swipe with a variable time delay. I know that can be handy in places where it rains sort of slow but steady.

The switch **** stem is a little longer but you can just lop that off a little bit and put the black **** with white center on it like our trucks had and it is hard to tell.

Another option, anyway.

Chad

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As long as it looks original that's good enough. The most important thing was I needed to swap in the 2 speed motor that mates with the 7 terminal switch. If I decide I can't live without intermittent wipers I can easily add them later.


It's hard to find wire harnesses in decent condition, so I'm planning to run some jumper wires from the 2 terminals on the new switch to the harness I already have.


I got a good 2 speed motor that came with a switch with the push to wash but not intermittent. Although it rains a lot here, it's not often slow and steady like the PNW.


Thanks for the reply!

 

The fact that you found an NOS dash harness is blowing my mind. I'd give my second child for one.

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Well as it turns out, although it was "new" still in the box, every single wire to the gauge cluster was cut and the connectors were missing. The seller promptly refunded my money and told me I could keep the harness. I cut off the connector for the ignition switch since that was missing from mine so I can splice it on. I also cut off several other connectors for use elsewhere as repair pigtails.

 

Well I found all the missing pieces for the optional outboard gauges, but I had to buy an entire parts truck to get them. The donor truck VIN says it's an F100, but it has F250 suspension and wheels front and rear (later model outie wheels) and the tool box on the passenger side of the bed. Also, the Custom Cab optional gauges were a lot more common on F250s than F100s. I'm wondering if someone just put an F100 driver side door on an F250?


If it turns out to be a genuine F250 I'll restore it, otherwise I'll take the parts I want and part out the rest.


The hardest part is the truck is in Utah, 3,300 miles away. Guess I need to get ready for a road trip soon

 

Will it be a future project or is it just a donor? Time will tell...


All I really wanted was the optional gauges!
VIN: F10DR708XXX... but everything about it says F250!

 

Did you get the Vin from the warranty tag on the door or from the frame? Someone could have swapped a door from an f100 and not changed the warranty tag. Or maybe you've already verified the frame vin matched the door...if so, someone could have swapped the f250 suspension over to the f100.

 

Nice looking truck. I sometimes wish I had an automatic, tough to shift and drink coffee at the same time!

 

I have not seen it in person yet. The seller provided the VIN. He was selling 3 slicks at the same time and I think he wrote down the wrong VIN in the ad.

 

I prefer a standard myself. Every Ford automatic I've owned leaked or stopped shifting before 100,000 miles. The C6 in my '76 F150 only has 77K on it and I had to add fluid every other day when I was using it as a DD while I repaired my Toyota.

 

That's what mine had. I was asking if the switch with integral push to wash had a dedicated wire harness like our switches. I decided I could retain the original harness and just add jumpers to the new switch. When I retrieve my new slick I will be able to see the other wire harness as it appears to have the integral push to wash switch.

 

Minor point. If I recall correctly it's a pull on the switch to activate the washers. I have a switch here in front of we and that seems correct, but it's not all wired in so I'd have to break out my test meter to make sure.

If you do want to part out the white truck I could sure use some of the automatic bits and pieces. Cooling lines were all removed from my truck so there's that. And if you wanted to sell the Bendix steering pump and brackets I'd be a buyer.

Chad

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I'm going to send the Bendix gearbox to Redhead for a rebuild and add a cooler. I have no use for any of the auto trans stuff, so anything that's useful I'm willing to part with.