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No worries. Also, if you refer back to the photo in post #119 I believe you can see the adapter that they used at the factory for the brake line to master.
The pictures in the Illustrations are generic, and clearly that is the '64 design. I found this picture on an old thread here posted by OldHarley back in '09:
And here is an NOS 64 MC with the copper cap:
Last edited by 66v8baby; May 7, 2019 at 12:09 PM.
Reason: deleted '63
You've made a good point though: the drawing shows they came from the factory with the fitting. I guess I have an oddball one that has the seat machined into it. I haven't been able to bleed the brakes yet, but if it works it's going to stay put.
The pictures in the Illustrations are generic, and clearly that is the '64 design. I found this picture on an old thread here posted by OldHarley back in '09:
The picture you are showing that was posted by Old Harley is definitely a 1965 or 1966 there. You can also see the spring wire clamps on the short rubber tube coming off of the brake booster to the hard line. That's a detail that you could add for an original look.
Right again Chad! The picture is of a '66. I figured someone just grabbed the '64 MC (or maybe just the lid) because they had a good spare and needed it.
My '66 F250 also has power brakes and the original steel vacuum line. I plan to send it to classic Lines to be duplicated, then I'll add the Corbin clamps for the finishing touch.
Yes, I was admiring the vacuum line on your setup. Looks good. They sure routed it forward quite a ways before heading to the firewall. I bought a used booster and got the line with it, too. Needs some cleanup, but not too bad. I already took the booster apart.
Your engine compartment is looking fantastic!
Here's the one I got. Clip on the line but no attaching hardware for the clip to firewall. Can you take a close-up of that on your truck if you have you and a camera and the truck in the same place again?
Thanks Chad, it's taken way longer than I imagined to get here, but if I can get the brakes bled I'll be on the road this weekend.
I think this is what you're asking for:
My crappy hand bent line is not as crisp as the factory part even using soft copper/nickel tubing I couldn't get a tighter radius without collapsing the tube.
I also made mine longer than the originals. That's an easy fix though.
Last edited by 66v8baby; May 8, 2019 at 06:10 AM.
Reason: spelling
Got the interior in today. Getting close to the finish line!
The tach is an old school Fariah 5K, perfect for a truck.
Seat covers by SMS Auto.
The under dash evaporator is from a '66 Mustang. Unfortunately I wasn't able to finish making the hoses because they sent two 6' pieces of #8 hose instead of a #6 hose for the liquid line. I was able to make the discharge hose and the suction hose, but I was really hoping to wrap up the A/C this weekend. The shifter on the Tremec 5 speed worked out perfect. There's about a 1/2" gap between shifter handle and evaporator in 1st gear.
I had ordered a master cylinder rebuild kit because my NOS master is for some other application. The depth of the recess in the piston is much greater than stock and too much to be able to adjust. It was guaranteed delivery by Friday. Ha! Last I checked it was in San Juan Puerto Rico!! Gotta love the USPS.
I'm probably going to steal the one from my F250 to try to get it on the road.
Almost done. I couldn't stand it any longer. I swiped the factory brake booster vacuum line and Corbin clamps from my F250. The obvious attach point for the line clip was where the ground strap attaches to the firewall.
The brakes are giving me fits. There's a leak when I press on the brakes, I believe it's where the hoses purchased from Mac's attach to the wheel cylinders. The hex on the hoses foul with the I beams such that you can't get a wrench on them, I ordered another pair from NPD. I hope they fit right.
I also did a little research on the master cylinder. I found a reference from the Mustang restoration crowd that beginning in January 1966, the master cylinders had the inverted flare seat machined into the master cylinder instead of using the fitting. Also, the part number in the MPC illustration catalog cannot be found in the text catalog, neither the 1975 edition nor the Sept 1967 edition which covers '57 to '67. The master cylinder fittings are in group 2076, but the '61-'66 F100 application isn't listed. The fitting for the '60 and earlier master cylinders uses NPT thread at the MC. I found out from a restorer/re-builder that the part number for the '61-'65 that's not listed used a 3/8-24 thread in the MC.
I used #8 reduced barrier hose for the suction and discharge hoses. The sight glass hose is from a '69 Mustang which has the quick disconnect. I cut the evaporator end off and put a #6 flare fitting on to mate with the '66 Mustang evaporator.
In addition to fixing the brake leaks, I need to adjust the hood latch before I can drive, but hopefully that won't be much longer.
I saved off pics of the March 1966 built truck with under 12,000 miles on it and it has the same adapter as all of my trucks do. I've looked at every pic I have of that area on original trucks and can't come up with one that doesn't have the adapter. Can you? Just curious.
I saved off pics of the March 1966 built truck with under 12,000 miles on it and it has the same adapter as all of my trucks do. I've looked at every pic I have of that area on original trucks and can't come up with one that doesn't have the adapter. Can you? Just curious.
Chad
No, it's a lot easier to find documentation on Mustangs than trucks, even though the Mustang MC is different than the truck design with the brake switch angling down instead of up, I figured it was reasonable to make the same change to both parts at the same time. I pulled my NOS Bendix master cylinder off to swap out the piston with one from an NOS truck rebuild kit. While I had it off I checked the date code on the bottom. The other ones I've seen start with a letter for the month, e.g. A106 would be January 10, 1966. Mine just has "145". My guess is 14 is the day of the month and 5 would be 1965, but with no letter I can't be certain of anything. It's also the only date code on it. Others I've seen have another one on the bowl that's usually easier to read.
NPD sells an adapter in their Mustang catalog that fits in MCs machined like mine and has a female flare fitting to give the appearance of the stock adapter for people who want a concourse appearance. I don't need to go that far... yet anyway. The cheap aftermarket MC I had barely lasted a year and not a single mile! At least with this one I have a reasonable expectation that it will last several years.
These old trucks will probably never have the dedicated hobbyists or documentation like the Mustang does, so it's mostly you and me that care about this level of detail. BTW, I ordered some split band radiator hose clamps from Ecklers that were listed for the 1960 T-bird and look just like the ones in the assembly line pictures you posted.
I've been replacing the brake lines and master cylinder in my '66. When I try and connect the line to the cylinder there's some movement like it isn't screwed in enough, but I can't tighten it anymore. Is that normal? Truck looks amazing by the way.
You need to use an adapter at the master cylinder. If it's an aftermarket MC you need a metric to SAE 3/8-24 female inverted flare fitting. If it's original you need a 3/8-24 male to 3/8-24 female inverted flare. Most of these single pot MCs don't have a seat machined into them like mine.
