The NOS cap is on the right. The cap diameter and text font are physically smaller than the reproduction. The NOS cap is noticeably duller than the reproduction, but that could be simply due to age. Notice the dimple on the dipstick rivet is larger on the NOS cap compared to the reproduction.


The NOS dipstick is on top. It's slightly shorter than the reproduction. The text on the reproduction is not shown in the picture, but like the top of the cap it's slightly larger than the original. The "full" dimple is in the same place on both dipsticks, but the "Add" dimple is lower on the reproduction.

 

I don't think Boss is offering me his hose, he's just saying he found one dirt cheap.

Is your NOS cap a later Motorcraft brand? Those came with the dipstick and the square center rivet like yours looks like.

I believe the Mustang guys would give you a hard time about your caps since neither one has the semi-round rivet on the top. But, I know you are not going for a show truck 100% correct. I'm just observing.

If you search eBay on the part number you can see what I'm talking about.

Chad

 

The cap came with the NOS reservoir and there is nothing that indicates Motorcraft on it, so I'm pretty sure it's original. The rivet is more football shaped, rounded on two shoulders and pointed on the others. I think it could qualify as semi-round, but as you noted I'm not going for 100% concourse and if some knucklehead commented on it not being correct I'd probably laugh and knock him upside the head for being a dufus.

 

I had a 1967 Shelby Mustang for years and hung out with the 1965 and 1966 guys too much - they were always talking about this stuff. Not sure if they qualified for Dufus status, but they sure liked their cars.

I remember what it is now. Cars with the straight vertical neck pump like the trucks had originally got no dipstick and A/C cars with the slanted angular neck like yours did get the dipstick. Thanks for talking it thru with me, you jogged my memory.

Chad

 

The part number that is hand written on the tag is C7TZ 3A719J

 

hose is a D3TZ Eyes not so good to read the rest in the truck

 

D3TZ sounds like it's for the '67-76 Thompson pump and Saginaw gearbox not the early Ford (TRW) pump and Bendix gearbox, but of course anything is possible with Ford part numbers.

 

Made progress this weekend installing insulation in the cab and mocking up the A/C. I used Boom Mat self stick squares for sound, and carpet underlay for thermal insulation.



Below is the liquid line mock up.


The receiver drier is from a 69-70 Mustang and worked out beautifully.

 

I repainted the lower dash Wimbledon white the way it came originally. It had been painted over turquoise. Also installed the gauge cluster. The oil pressure and ammeter gauges were re-calibrated and the faces and dials re-painted. To the left of the parking brake handle is the dual fuel tank switch. It's connected to an 80's style fuel solenoid to switch between the fuel sending units and fuel tanks themselves. I don't have the aft tank installed yet, but wanted to get the wiring and interior done now.

Also installed the door panels and pockets with Boom mat on the inside of the door shells. I decided not to use the vinyl covers on the door pockets. I think I'll paint the pocket to match the door panel and call it good. The originals just wouldn't clean up nice enough and needed new zippers installed. I looked at several vinyl samples and couldn't find one with the same weight, color and grain pattern. I think they look good without them.

 

I've tried like crazy to use the '66 Mustang/Falcon under dash unit but it just doesn't look like I can make the hose connections work. The large car under dash unit is slightly larger (15.75 x 3.5 vs 15 x 3 for the main body). The hoses exiting on the passenger side on the large car unit make for a very "factory" appearing installation, much better than any of the dealer installed variations I've seen. The mounting bracket I'm having made is unique to the large car unit and won't work on either the '65 or '66 Ford small car units as they are dimensionaly smaller.

 

I picked up some more NOS parts and a couple of used parts that are small detail pieces that aren't available in reproduction.


I got 2 of the 'press to release' dash ***** for the w/w wipers and heater (only one pictured), a C1VF 12216-A primary wire, not pictured as it's already installed in the distributor, an NOS C5TZ 14448-E block assembly for the ammeter gauge junction, and a piece I had given up on finding NOS; the passenger side door panel. Still looking for an NOS driver's side. door panel. The B7AF 12216-A primary wire used on the 289 and available in reproduction is too short to reach the coil. I'm going to drive with points ignition for at least a year, probably 2, so I want the best parts I can get.

Not pictured are the used parts: the battery hold down tab (not delivered yet) and the coat hook. The coat hook could stand to be re-chromed, but I think I'll wait until I have a few more parts to be re-plated before sending it off. From what I can tell, it looks like there was only one coat hook that went on the lower passenger side headliner panel.

In the upper RH corner you can see a re-worked reproduction alternator harness. I found an NOS '66 big truck harness that wasn't a close enough match to use "as is", but I unwrapped it and took the ground and alternator output leads that are 8 gauge, and replaced the reproduction 10 gauge wires.

 

Larry, that looks like some truly great stuff. That junction block is too cool. I need one or two of those, too....Lol. Quite rare, there.

The door trim panel almost looks like it is missing a little of its grain texture, but that's not too uncommon or it might be the camera angle or flash, too.

I do have three of the LH drivers side, so one spare of those. I might even have the near perfect mate for that one. I think we'd talked about that before, though, and then I went into the hospital for that septic bursitis of the elbow thing that I had and I lost track of things a bit. Let me know if you want some pics of that.

Chad

 

Larry, here's pictures of the ones that I have so far. The one on top is probably closest to a pure white and the others are a slightly more almond or biscuit color which will go great with my Parchment interior. If you would be interested in the white one on top then send me a PM. There is no damage to it - no cracks and it has that correct feel to it of that slightly soft material. I do have the original cardboard sleeve for it, too, just not in these pictures.





Chad

 

Yes, very interested! PM sent.

 

This is the back of the gauge cluster. I wrote the letters/numbers with a marker in case the paper tags fell off.



These are the paper tags on the harness ends.