Ah, Redhead is just a little ways away let me know when it is there and I'll break in once they are done and snag it.....haha

Oh, actually I meant the pump and brackets. I can get a steering box from them thru the back window any time.

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Their website says they don't have any Bendix gearbox cores right now so you have to send yours in to be rebuilt. I would want to keep the original pump and brackets as they are pretty rare options for '66 and may be one year only parts. NumberDummy could answer that question if he reads this.

 

Thats what i did, i may have to opt for a bew motor soon it works good ,but sounds like its weak, if memeory serves me right i got it out of a late 70s bronco, its like you said 2 speed with deley other than adding the govener and wires it bolted right in.

 

As for adding them later if you do it ,you cant tell unless you dod it ir really new your stuff, i shortened the switch rod,filed it down and looks perfect,asude from a new bezel,as mines git impurity bumps

 

Breaker, Breaker - I'll try to answer the question you asked on the NV4500 post. I wasn't sure whether we were highjacking his post so I thought I'd do it this way. Your speedometer drive bits appear to be the same as mine. And the speedo driven gear is inside the tailhousing. What's missing from your picture is the O-ring seal. I'm going from memory, having done this in 2012, but I'm pretty sure my local Dodge dealer did not service that seal, and I've had a bitch of a time getting that sucker not to leak, having tried several O-rings and combinations of seals. It doesn't pour out, but it is annoying. I got my speedo drive gear from PATC in Louisiana. They were super to deal with and cheaper than the Dodge dealer, though by no means cheap ($39). I think you found it cheaper. The gear I bought was Mopar P/N 12DG2-33. It's the long gear and has 33 teeth. My truck has 3.50 gears with 235/75 X 15 tires and the speedo is dead accurate with this set up. It looks like you've seen my photo album on this website so you will have seen a lot of pictures of the installation. We used the OE trans mount crossmember, with a new trans mount insulator, but relocated aft and below the frame to get the angle right. I had a local transmission shop who are good at specialty work do the job so that I wouldn't screw it up and make an expensive mess of it. There's a good picture of this in the album. I have the two piece driveshaft. I had the front one shortened, Dodge slip yoke fitted, and then balanced the two together. Another recommendation, if you're planning to add headers and dual exhaust, do the transmission first. I did it the other way around and found my H-pipe had to be redone as it was right in the way. You'll also find that the transmission shifter comes into the cab further aft from the 435, so you'll have some sheet metal work to do on the cab access panel. The part number for the Advance Adapter is 712551. They don't always have them in stock and I had to wait for more orders to come in before they made another batch of them - just something to keep in mind. Hope this helps!

 

In post 7 u asked about the lifter valley pan. I bought an intake from Weiend for a 460 i have. And in capital letters they state "Do not use lifter valley pan". Capital letters. I had bought a valley pan so now I can't use it. Not sure about Edelbrock u might want to check. To me it makes sense to use one. Maybe a sealing issue? not sure

 

OK, I thought the discussion was relevant to anyone doing a 5 speed swap, but I appreciate the response here.

It does have an o-ring. I'll keep an eye on it for leaks, maybe even put some of the heavy duty grey RTV sealant on it.

Doing the math on calculating the speedometer gear I used the following equation:
drive teeth x axle gear ratio x tire rev per mile/ 1001 = driven teeth

The NV4500 has 13 drive teeth, a 235/75/15 tire has a diameter of 28.9, which works out to 698 revs per mile. However, the tire rack website says this tire has 722 revs per mile. Probably because once installed with weight on it the effective diameter is reduced.

Using the uninstalled tire diameter the equation becomes:
13 x 3.5 x 698 / 1001 = 31.72 or rounding up, 32
Using the effective installed height tire diameter:
13 x 3.5 x 722 / 1001 = 32.8 or rounding up, 33

So I will use your real world results (and the Tire Rack provided revs per mile) since I also plan to install 3.5 rear gears and get a long 33 tooth driven gear.

For anyone planning this conversion, add one tooth to my recommendation in the previous post to the 5 speed thread. If it's not too late to edit it I'll try to correct it there and annotate it has been edited.

Although I don't plan to add headers, I am installing dual exhaust, so I'll hold off on the crossover pipe until the trans swap is done.

You have been tremendously helpful! A million thanks. I'm planning to order the remaining pieces for this swap next weekend, but I'm not in a hurry. The billet steel flywheel arrived yesterday, and I also ordered a Centerforce 12 x 1 1/4" x 10 spline hub disc.

 

Having to remove the intake again just almost made me sick to my stomach, but I also lost one of the valve stem keepers when I was replacing the valve springs, so it will give me a chance to see if it fell down into the lifter valley. The splash tray keeps hot oil off the intake, but Ford stopped using them on the Windsor engines, so I think I will also... it's just not worth risking re-doing the intake another time.

 

As I write this post I'm sitting in a hotel room in Las Vegas. I went to Pleasant Grove UT to "take delivery" of the f250 but ended up only pulling the pieces I needed.

The VIN on the door confirmed it was in fact a real F250, and when I pulled the F250 badges off the fenders I saw from the backside it was in fact a Camper Special.

The owner of the storage lot helped me pull the parts I wanted. The body panels and bed were too rusted to bother with. Trying to transport them to Maryland just wasn't worth it.

Since it wasn't worth coming back for the carcass I gave it to the storage lot owner. The Dana 60 alone is worth $200, so he should be able to make some money off of what's left.

It cost $349 to ship everything back to Maryland. Even if I wanted more parts I couldn't spend much more for shipping on this trip.

The only piece missing I was hoping to get was the bolt on 3 sheave crankshaft pulley part number C4AZ-6A312-B.

I pulled the 10A655 harness assembly for the auxiliary gauges (along with the entire gauge assembly) and noticed one wire was cut. I believe it was green with a red stripe. When I get back home and the parts arrive, I'll post some pics and ask for help with the wiring. I have the page NumberDummy posted and while it's helpful, it isn't clear where all the wires go.

 

I believe the green wire with the red stripe is for the dash lights. The round speedo uses three lights, one for each gauge, and the sweep speedo uses two. At least that is what I saw on mine. Hopefully my rememberer is working alright since it is past my bedtime. If I'm wrong, somebody smarter than me will set me straight. Bob

 

The dash light wire is blue with red stripe, but thanks for trying. Also, it's cut in the engine compartment side. The wiring diagram shows it should go to the voltage regulator, but I can't figure out how it would plug in to the existing alternator to voltage regulator harness.

 

Look in your factory shop manual, page 13-2, Figure 2, and it shows the green with red stripe wire going between the ignition terminal on the ignition switch and the voltage regulator S terminal.

 

Thanks SS, I don't have the shop manual yet, but it is now at the top of my priority list before I start trying to incorporate the auxiliary gauges. My real question was how does it tie into the voltage regulator wire harness? Is there a disconnect somewhere in that harness?

If page 13-2 illustrates where it ties in, I will be able to recreate the connection. Right now the wire is cut just a few inches after it passes through the firewall on the engine bay side.

Thanks again for your help.

 

Probably not quite what you are after, but I have a 3-sheeve bolt on crankshaft pulley for the FE engine. PM me if you have any interest. I won't be needing this one for my project.





Chad

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I need the one with the 2 inside sheaves the same diameter, and the outer sheave slightly smaller, but thanks anyway.

Edit: actually that might work... the inner most sheave would have to be the same as the one built n to the harmonic ballancer. I will PM you.