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I found an NOS D1TZ 19B969-B dealer AC engine kit, also sold by Sears as Mapco MT-183-2 Rev3. So off came all the Thunderbird front dress and on went all the Mapco and original Ford truck parts. Technically this kit was designed for the '68 to '71 F-100/F250, but all I needed to make it work on my '66 was a 3 sheave bolt on crank pulley. Thanks to Chad, I have one. The Ford kit works with both the dual sheave alternator pulley and the original power steering. The original dealer engine AC kit was not compatible with power steering without modification, so this was the ideal kit to use.
If you felt the ground shake around 10:45 Eastern, I know the reason why. I started my engine for the first time in almost two years after replacing the timing chain, cam and lifters (twice actually), pushrods, valve springs and keepers, intake manifold, carburetor, and most of the wiring! It idled fine and ran long enough to break in the cam properly without a hitch.
I still have a hundred things to do before it's ready to hit the road, but I signed up for the Hot Rod Power Tour back in January, and now I believe I will make it!
If you look close you can see the discolored paint on the exhaust ports that bear witness to a running engine.
Great looking engine compartment. Where did you find the decals for your oil bath breather? I would like to do the same to mine.
Thanks, I started with a nice truck to begin with which helps a lot, but I've tried to keep everything as stock looking as possible. I really love the little Autolite 4100. It maintains a stock appearance but really adds a punch. I used it on my 351 Windsor in my '69 Mach 1 before I went crazy and built it into a 526 HP 408 stroker. It just sat on a shelf waiting for a new home for the past 10 years.
I got the decals from NPD, but I believe Mac's also carries them.
Things to do before I can drive:
Solve the charging problem (I believe I found the culprit; a poorly crimped connection, still need to test)
Bleed the brakes
Change the oil after initial break in (ordered 6 quarts of Royal Purple break in oil for the next 500 miles)
Install the under dash evaporator
Install the A/C compressor and hoses
Install power steering pump
Install bench seat and carpet
Then I need to have the front end aligned before I head out on the Hot Rod Power Tour.
I made a lot of progress over the weekend. I discovered the reason the battery wasn't charging and the alternator light was blinking was because my NOS alternator was bad. Swapped back in the original and problem solved.
Changed the oil with 5 more quarts of break in oil.
Also installed the A/C compressor and power steering pump. I had to revert back to the original fan because the big 7 blade fan with clutch fouled with the compressor clutch. The spacer is an original 2 3/8 unit from a Mustang.
I discovered the new master cylinder is leaking out the back. Arrrrgh!!
Made a lot of progress on the under dash evaporator installation, but still need to install a new end on the sight glass hose.
Last edited by 66v8baby; May 6, 2019 at 08:52 AM.
Reason: spelling
I had recently bought a NOS Bendix master cylinder, so I was able to get it swapped out today after work. There are a couple of differences between the aftermarket replacement and the NOS original. Can you spot the external difference?
I also found an assembly line cap for it (below). It's easy to tell this form the reproduction: the repro has the font all the way out to the edge and doesn't have the periods between "S.A.E." like the original.
However, the early replacements were almost identical with one exception. Do you know what was different about the assembly line part vs. the over the counter replacement (below)? Hint: I'm not talking about the obvious painted black assembly line part.
The assembly line part wasn't paint black for one thing. Gold cadmium plated.
Chad
The replacement was yellow cad plated as shown, but I have 2 assembly line parts that were actually plated in copper, and I'm pretty sure they were painted black based on photos you have posted. In addition to the '65/66 lid, I have a '63/'64 assembly line lid with the concentric raised center. If you look on the underside of either of these caps you can clearly see the copper plating.
I also wanted to let you know the C7TZ high pressure p/s hose didn't line up with the pump fitting. I had to straighten the metal neck out on the end of the hose, but I was able to make it work.
Wow, you were quick to quote me there. I updated my post before you submitted your next one so you got me a bit out of context. That's why I rarely quote someone - because you can do it a bit quick in a typing context.
But, since you are making assumptions based on photos I posted let me post more to correct that assumption. You can see this concentric one is not black.
Cool picture. Too bad they weren't in color. You're not going to lose any points for stating they weren't painted black and it's typical that each plant seems to have done things slightly different. It appears there may have been at least 2 vendors for the flat top lids with the script in a circle. The NOS over the counter lid has a "P" stamped in the middle and the assembly line lid doesn't.
In case no one spotted the difference in the aftermarket m/c and the original, the aftermarket one has metric threads on the end which requires an adapter for the brake line. The original has the 3/16 flare fitting machined in so the brake line attaches directly. I'm hoping the NOS lasts a lot longer too. The cheap import has zero miles on it and lasted less than a year just sitting in the garage.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
