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I hate to keep leaning on you all out there, but I don't see much of an alternative at this point. I pulled the HPOP, replaced the non-serviceable plug, new o rings on the IPR which i took out to work on the plug, and new (no check valve) outlet hose fittings cause i couldn't get the internal o rings out. All back together, but it won't start after about 3 minutes of cranking (not all at one time). I checked and rechecked that little check ball behind the non serviceable plug, looking through the IPR opening. I did break the IPR "catch", when taking it off and it doesn't "lock" in place now but it's firmly seated. I was very careful in seating that gear that drive the HPOP and torqued it to 95 ft lbs as required. There were no leaks anywhere to be seen. I filled up the HPOP reservoir and then double checked it after cranking for several minutes. Right up to the top. I checked the fuel bowl and it's full.
Is it possible that non check valve outlet hose fittings is causing a problem? Is there any other things I should look for? Thanks.
The check valves won't hurt anything if they're missing. Might cause a slightly longer crank time ( a full second or so), but no bid deal. I've been without those for a few hundred thousand miles.
The check ball behind the non serviceable plug will cause a no start every time if it comes out.
Did you do anything else other than the HPOP change? Did you get the gears lined back up and the bolt tightened down? Did you get all the wiring connections plugged back in?
For the IPR catch, you can order a new pigtail and just replace the catch, or steal the catch off the EBV plug. It's the same plug so the catch will work on either one. But the IPR is more important if you don't want to walk.
Thanks Chris. Yeah, I was really careful with that check ball. Dropped it in the IPR opening facing up, with my thumb over the service plug opening, looked at it sitting there thru the IPR opening, kept the pump in a vice with the IPR opening facing up and put the non serviceable plug in, again checking through the IPR opening. I'm sure I could see the ball behind the "rod" on the end of the plug.
As far as gears lined up, couldn't see it, but put the 2 bolts in the pump but loose, then giggled the pump with my right hand, holding the gear through the front opening with my left hand until it felt like the gear kind of locked into place over the HPOP shaft. Then i tightened (not torqued the 2 pump bolts, checking the feel of the gear again and again. Then I put the 95 ft lb bolt in the front opening, torqued it, and then the 2 HPOP bolts from behind. Again, I couldn't never see the gear, it just felt like it mated over the HPOP shaft. The connections are all plugged in, the IPR, the one to the back of the fuel bowl, and the two in front of the reservoir and the one on top of the reservoir. They were the only ones I unplugged.
I'll try a few more times to start it tomorrow, then I guess remove the HPOP again. thanks for your help.
Recently there was an FTE member that had similar problems and after a lot of troubleshooting the problem turned out to be the HPOP being about 1/4" out/back from where it needed to be. He only saw this because when he removed the fuel bowl and the very small gap happened to catch his eye.
I will see if I can find the picture.
EDIT: Below is the picture and the link to the thread.
Recently there was an FTE member that had similar problems and after a lot of troubleshooting the problem turned out to be the HPOP being about 1/4" out/back from where it needed to be. He only saw this because when he removed the fuel bowl and the very small gap happened to catch his eye.
I will see if I can find the picture.
EDIT: Below is the picture and the link to the thread.
Wow, that is really a gap, almost like the two bolts holding the HPOP weren't tightened up!. No, I've got mine all torqued down and tight against the gasket. But many thanks for the info.
Silly me, i can see i got the IPR sensor in back of the "spacer", and not in front! Seemed logical at the time I guess and I just wasn't paying attention. Does anybody know the size of that "lock nut" on the back of the IPR? Also, what tool(s) to get it off and back on without having to pull the HPOP output lines and drain the oil again.
You referring to the "tin nut" on the rear of the IPR? As I understand it the truck will not run without the tin nut.
Yeah, the "tin nut". I'm sure it's made that way so as to flex and act like a lock nut. Anyway, it's 3/4", i got it off with a 3/8" drive swivel handle ratchet and socket, put it back on the same way, but i couldn't get my 1/4" torque wrench in to torque it to 53 inch lbs. So I guessed. Thanks everybody, it's purring like a kitten right now. Of course I don't have my hearing aids in and without them, everything is mellow
It is the simple things that we get hung up on. Glad you got it going and did not have to remove the HPOP again like others have.
Yeah, you know all those weird positions you have to get yourself into to work on the truck. I think I was standing on my head when I was assembling the IPR and so naturally I reversed 2 parts. That's the best excuse I could come up with on short notice.
12-16-2016, 08:23 PM
