So, get few things accomplish and now this happens.. Anybody been through this rodeo that can throw a few pointers? Got the plug/gasket on the way

 

Be careful and don't overtighten the plug. I know I did it with the HPOP removed and IIRC I had to set it so the threaded hole was pointing up so that the check ball didn't fall out. I can't remember the instructions I used but I bought the plug at my local IH dealer. I thought I used Clay's instructions but I don't see any on Riffraff's website.

 

Remove HPOP and keep the hole pointed up so you don't lose the check valve is correct. Bob has instructions on his site. High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP) Replacement "non-serviceable" plug on the 7.3 Ford Diesel Oil Pump Find the link and click to download the pdf.

And be sure you get the threads absolutely clean of any and all oil or contaminants before putting it back together. The loctite on clean threads is important. Use brake clean and some Q tips.

 

Well I did mine last year and this is what I remember:
1. I had to remove the fule bowl and lines to get to the pump. I have seen others say you don't have to but even removed, a lot of work to take out the pump was blind.
2. When I got the pump out not only was the "plug" leaking but one of the oil lines. I got new seals for the fittings for the life of me, I couldn't get them in so I bought new fittings (the cheaper one without backflow valves - no problems with them. (RifRaff recommended as I remember)
3 the "plug" had worked its way loose, and in doing so stripped a lot of threads so putting the new (extended thread) one back in I really had to be careful. I bought an inch pounds ratchet.
4. Having removed the fuel bowl I disconnect all of the fuel line fittings, I think 4 of them. Yep, in every one the seal was trash and had to replace.
5, Taking off the inspection plate in front of the pump so I could properly "feel" if the gears were engaged when I put the pump back in, I broke the sensor in front of and to the left of the plate. I think it's the exhaust back pressure sensor. Had to order a new one.
6 Believe it or not, I put the IPR sensor back on the pump backwards. Of course it wouldn't start but I got luck and found the issue very quickly.

A real mechanic probably had most of those problems, but the last time i was really into tearing down an engine was 1965. Kind of intimidates me now. Hope my experience with it helps.

 

Oh yean, I took apart the pump in a cardboard box so I wouldnt lose the little pea sized valve? below the "plug" but it bounced out and it took me a half hour to find it. Use a high sided cardboard box.

 

Awesome, gentlemen... Thank you! Didn't want to be diving back into that valley, so soon. I hit up bobs sight and got the procedure👍. As for the parker sleeves, they're brand new with 2hrs of heat soaking. Should I consider replacing v or they should be good? Hate to be put onhold for those damn things... I'll probably go the fuel bowl remove route, ebp sensor removed with tube along with tube and bracket. I no me and when **** hits the fan, wrenches start growing wings.... Will keep updating with pics throughout this ordeal.

 

2 hr old parker sleeves should be fine.

 

You could use the Vibra Lok Sleeves over if there not chewed up from tightening,You might find them sleeve's at a John Deere dealer in a pinch Our JD 6-619 engines have several sizes of sleeves on the fuel return lines.

 

I like the cardboard idea...i got a few empty plastic tubs that I can cut up, if need be.

. In a pinch, I've used 1/4 and 5/16 fuel line with awesome results.👍
ain't lying here but this job definitely seems to be raising the pucker factor, lol. Going to rip the front end off to install the 6oh cooler and then dump trans pan. Do the flush, then finish topside with fuel bowl and line removal

 

Morning y'all...found a great were up on hop removal on deadhead diesel site..(was looking up something that can fall if not careful when removing, which ended being the washer on the bolt)..anyway, should I get an oring kit for the IPR, since I need to remove it?

 

Link below is to what I believe Tim is referencing.

https://deadheaddiesel.com/7.3-powerstroke-problems/

 

I didn't when I did mine but it seems pretty cheap insurance while you're in there. I have never been comfortable working blind and IMO is worth it to have that peace of mind with the HPOP already out.

 

Your right Brian..as much as I try to "deny" its needed, the back of my eyeballs are telling me in Buttheads voice...you *******. So, I ordered it👍 if it wasn't for f350 posting bobs site, I wouldn't have known about the case gasket either... Thanks man.

 

When you have the IPR out, do this cleaning "rebuild" in the video from Trey:


When my IPR quit a few years ago, it was after an extended oil change. I think I could have gotten away with cleaning it and new orings, but bought a new one to install along the road where I left it sit.

I hope to do this sometime soon to have a spare.

Definitely clean it, you'll have it out

 

So, I'm at the ger bolt now. Everything else is removed/unplugged...2 questions

1)..the gear bolt cover has grey goop on it. Go get more to reseal it or what is on there makes a good seal again

2)..the heater core return spout atop the pump I smack inmiddle of gear bolt. Should I drain coolant and remove to make life easier or just go at it?