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Interesting related issue - my dealer said that Ford will not allow them to reprogram the tire PSI, or the speedometer for the 2017s. They said they even tried to get around it but couldn't. Anyone have a similar experience?
Highjumper did the dealership say it wasn't in the IDS system to adjust or just couldn't do it?
I'm ordering the software to be able to make the changes with your laptop this afternoon,should know something in a week or so if I can adjust it.
Not sure what those Icon castor bushings are made of but they sure are pricy...
I honestly didn't think to ask. I got the impression that the little iPad wouldn't give them the option to do it, but I may be wrong. They did say I could purchase a programmer once released and do it myself. Please let us know how your software works out.
Thanks Outtacontrol58,hard for me to get a true mpg reading as I do a lot of short trips pulling an idling on the job site. Of course didn't buy it for MPG's anyway but I would guess it to be around 11 in town?
Rut - with the 2" spacers in the front...what are the measurements from top of tire to fender? Is there still a rake from front to rear? I want to don2.5" spring kit but want a little rake front to rear. On my '12 I did the 5" rear blocks and it was 1.25" or so higher in the rear...
Rut - with the 2" spacers in the front...what are the measurements from top of tire to fender? Is there still a rake from front to rear? I want to don2.5" spring kit but want a little rake front to rear. On my '12 I did the 5" rear blocks and it was 1.25" or so higher in the rear...
Is the rear axle in the 17s the same set up so just a taller block can be installed?
I have about a 3" rake front to back. I do have the heavy service front suspension - that may raise the front a touch over those without that or the snow plow package? If I do 2.5" in the front and actually get 2.5" - then it will be pretty much dead level. I measured the rear blocks this am - 3" in the front and 3.25" in the back. So slightly tapered. Icon has a 4" rear block. There even appears to be enough room on the u-bolt threads for the addition of that slightly larger block. I'd get new u-bolts of course - but would at least be factory. I go for the factory type look - so I'm ok w/ a little wheel well. Plan on 295/65/20 Toyo AT's. Here's how my last ride looked... About a 1" rake from front to back but had to do the 5" block on that one.
Highjumper, After reading your reply I thought I should measure again because it didn't seem to add up. When I first installed the kit I measured and wrote down the difference and it did have a 1.5 " rake. Although now after adding my steel toolbox full of tools and pulling a gooseneck trailer a few times I only have a 1/2" difference. Rear being higher.
-Mike-
Last edited by Katymike; Sep 29, 2016 at 02:18 PM.
Reason: 1.5" not 2.5"
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