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This post has been awesome to follow. I get my F250 on Nov 2nd, and I plan on providing the level kit to them so the labor will roll in to the price. I want my wife to see it done so she doesn't keep on asking me .......how much was that.
Anyway, do you guys (that have leveled your trucks) mind providing a summary of what you did and if you wish you had done anything extra? These 200+ comments are getting overwhelming to read through and remember diferent parts of conversations.
For example.....Rut used RC 2" level spacers with new castor bushings I think. Highjumper may have used the Icon. I'm sure others of you have totally used other kits. Anyway, I'd love a small recap. I am really considering the RC 2" with 37 RTs on stock, but also like the idea of maybe softening the ride with Icon coil over 2.5" level with new shocks (no extensions) and trac bar drop bracket or new bar. Just don't know if the difference in price for these two approaches are worth it or if they achieve the same outcome. Would love your opinions now that you guys have done it.
This post has been awesome to follow. I get my F250 on Nov 2nd, and I plan on providing the level kit to them so the labor will roll in to the price. I want my wife to see it done so she doesn't keep on asking me .......how much was that.
Anyway, do you guys (that have leveled your trucks) mind providing a summary of what you did and if you wish you had done anything extra? These 200+ comments are getting overwhelming to read through and remember diferent parts of conversations.
For example.....Rut used RC 2" level spacers with new castor bushings I think. Highjumper may have used the Icon. I'm sure others of you have totally used other kits. Anyway, I'd love a small recap. I am really considering the RC 2" with 37 RTs on stock, but also like the idea of maybe softening the ride with Icon coil over 2.5" level with new shocks (no extensions) and trac bar drop bracket or new bar. Just don't know if the difference in price for these two approaches are worth it or if they achieve the same outcome. Would love your opinions now that you guys have done it.
What is the roof height of the truck with the leveling kit and 37" tires.
Yes and she still fits in the local automatic carwash..
That's huge. I'd hate to have to wash this beast out in the driveway every time. Someone just built a tunnel near me that allows 86 inches. I'm going to wait until another tall truck goes through first though.
Interesting related issue - my dealer said that Ford will not allow them to reprogram the tire PSI, or the speedometer for the 2017s. They said they even tried to get around it but couldn't. Anyone have a similar experience?
I called my dealer to get my speedo re-calibrated since I replaced the dinky 17" tires. Dealer told me they couldn't. So I called the next closest dealer with a known to be better service dept. They said they can re-cal for about 5 tire sizes. I have an appt Friday. I will update if they can't get it done.
I called my dealer to get my speedo re-calibrated since I replaced the dinky 17" tires. Dealer told me they couldn't. So I called the next closest dealer with a known to be better service dept. They said they can re-cal for about 5 tire sizes. I have an appt Friday. I will update if they can't get it done.
Maybe ask about the fuel tank recalibration as well? The 6-8 gallon reserve some are reporting seems crazy.
I am thinking about getting the 2" level and 35" or 37" tires but I am considered about bed rail height as the stock trucks are already taller than previous years and I have to be able to pull a fifth wheel.
Can you measure your bed rail height from the ground?
Then if someone else has a older 350 will someone measure their bed rail height from the ground so I can know the difference.
I would hate to go ahead and purchase my 5th wheel, then the bed rail height with the leveling kit and tires is to high.
I am thinking about getting the 2" level and 35" or 37" tires but I am considered about bed rail height as the stock trucks are already taller than previous years and I have to be able to pull a fifth wheel.
Can you measure your bed rail height from the ground?
Then if someone else has a older 350 will someone measure their bed rail height from the ground so I can know the difference.
I would hate to go ahead and purchase my 5th wheel, then the bed rail height with the leveling kit and tires is to high.
Thanks guys I think the 37's fill the wheel wheels up perfect,I do however get a small amount of rub at full max lock but nothing i'm going to worry about.
The tire shop had gotten the Moog Adjustable Caster bushings but once we got it in there we couldn't get it to adjust hardly at all.. He ordered another "Fixed" caster bushing and will be here Wed and going to try it again,hopefully 3rd time is the charm..
Does anyone have a tire chart so I could check to see how much my speedometer is off by chance?
Rutcutter, Do you think 1/4" wheel spacers would take care of that rub?
I would think so,the rub isn't a "hard rub" at all just at full max lock or I would have done something different.. Have you found some spacers that will work?
I would think so,the rub isn't a "hard rub" at all just at full max lock or I would have done something different.. Have you found some spacers that will work?
I want to level and throw 37s on there, but would love to avoid rubbing. Just don't know if the 1/4" would cause more harm than good. I know the larger spacers tend to loosen up, but i'd think a 1/4" would tighten down well.
LEDman there isn't a binding rub at all,only rubs at full max lock like my 2011 did with the 35's.. Like I was saying earlier,I wouldn't keep them if there was that much rub.
I think the trade off from the 35's no rub and the look of a small tire to the 37's with the extra GC plus the 1.5" more height with a little rub is worth it to me.
I want to level and throw 37s on there, but would love to avoid rubbing. Just don't know if the 1/4" would cause more harm than good. I know the larger spacers tend to loosen up, but i'd think a 1/4" would tighten down well.
I think that's a fine idea. The question of whether they work or not depends upon how much stud thread is left and if it's sufficient to properly torque the lug nuts. Whoever sells the spacers should have that information.
Assuming there are enough threads, the only other thing that changes is the wheel center in relationship to the wheel bearings. By moving the center outward there is some amount of additional torque on the bearings. Over time this will increase wear. But what is the difference? .0001%? An engineer could calculate that but it has to be negligible.
I want to level and throw 37s on there, but would love to avoid rubbing. Just don't know if the 1/4" would cause more harm than good. I know the larger spacers tend to loosen up, but i'd think a 1/4" would tighten down well.
Spacers like this work for lug centric wheels, which are aftermarket. The factory wheels are hub centric and rely on the hub to center the wheel, hence the flat washer type factory lugnuts. Long ago, on an early SD, I was able to use 1/8" spacers like this that still allowed the factory wheel to catch enough hub to center itself. I'm fairly certain, pushing the factory wheel a 1/4" away from the hub will prevent it from having enough "meat" to center and support the wheel.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.