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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Leaking Oil

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Old Aug 20, 2016 | 06:36 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by hharris8
Went back and torqued to 15lbs. 20 is recommended so I will torque it to 20 after 24 hours.
This is a good idea.

if only hand tight and the coolant ports are not completely seated as the rtv sets up you will end up with leaks when the aluminum gets hot and expands and there is pressure in the system.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2016 | 07:08 PM
  #122  
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Ultimate Automotive Leak Detector
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The Ultimate auto Leak Detector

Once you put the manifold and the carb or plenum back together the smoker ex sells at this kind of leak.The smoke will roll out massively if your seal isn't good enough you can put the output hose in the exhaust pipe with a rag.To force it forward and it will travel up through the exhaust into the exhaust manifolds and from there it will travel in through the exhaust valves and from there into the manifold and again it won't quit until it marks every leak there is in the Manifold the front and rear seal the water jackets the water pump the thermostat housing and both the intake and exhaust ports.And again am sorry for getting into your conversations ever since I signed into the thread oil leak every thing you guys post alerts me by email because it has to do with leaks but for now I am out I will leave it up to the pro,s and just erase each post that comes to me because of leaks.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2016 | 07:19 PM
  #123  
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Hi UALD,

I appreciate you coming to this thread.
You paid to be a vendor in this forum, and are following the IB representatives suggestion of engaging forum members where your product would be helpful in diagnosis.

That said, if you don't wish to receive thread notifications you can scroll up to just above the first post and look for "thread tools" towards the right.
Click there and then in the drop down "unsubscribe this thread"
A window will appear that confirms "your subscription to this thread has been removed"

HTH
 
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Old Aug 20, 2016 | 07:22 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by Ultimate Automotive Leak Detector
ex sells
Thanks for your help.


I am sorry, but I just cannot afford it at this time.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2016 | 12:44 PM
  #125  
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hharris8

Sorry I get carried away sometime,s and don't pay attention to spelling was it Plenum you were talking about because spell check shows this to be the correct way to spell it.And I don't know for sure all I know is the plenum is a fuel injected way of getting the fuel into the manifold.In place of a carburetor.You know its a shame you don't own one of these smokers because it would answer all of your questions.Is it sealed between the water jackets and the intake and exhaust ports Is the sealer thick enough and sealed on the front and rear valleys.You can put saran wrap over the plenum and if there is a leak in the rear from the gasket by that dark spot you will see the smoke rolling out rite there.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2016 | 01:04 PM
  #126  
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Plenum is also the open area beneath a carburetor, before it splits into individual runners going to each cylinder.

In this case (dual plane) you have a plenum for each side of your carburetor.
The idea being that reduced volume keeps velocity high even with the engine at low rpm's.

It's only one side that is coated, so I don't think it is all coming from the PCV.
I thought (maybe) that the modulator was blown, or something else unique to that side was leaking.

I guess we'll see when he fires it up.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2016 | 08:21 PM
  #127  
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Everything is now installed properly and I started a few minutes ago. I still have to do a little work (terminal on ignition coil wire broke of so I have to replace that and the idle is way high). Tomorrow I should have it running well if I have time and will be able to tell if it is leaking. I could not imagine it is. It did rain last night and some water got on the rear of the intake manifold and the RTV, but that was hours after installation and it was hot so I think the RTV was already set pretty well. I am leaving the PCV unhooked currently.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2016 | 08:33 PM
  #128  
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Moisture is what cures the silicone, so don't worry about it.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2016 | 07:47 AM
  #129  
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Got everything timed today. Only problems wreathe carb keeps sticking at a higher idle and I have to tap the arm with a screwdriver to unstick, and the driver side exhaust still has smoke. I cannot tell if it is white or gray. It is coming out to lightly to tell, but after a while it creates a haze. The other side is clean. I have the PCV unhooked and the port capped on the carb. The PCV hose on the valve cover side has no air pulling in or blowing out. The breather cap on the other side (drivers) had smoke coming out and was heavier when I removed the breather. That may have been caused by the truck's idle being stuck at 1900 when I started. If it is not the PCV how can I check the transmission modulator?
 
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Old Aug 22, 2016 | 09:19 AM
  #130  
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Are you sure there isn't residual moisture in the muffler that's evaporating?
 
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Old Aug 22, 2016 | 09:26 AM
  #131  
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Only smoke creates a haze, steam will dissipate.

You should expect some pressure and oil mist from the breather if the pcv is not connected and doing its job.

Try hosing down the fast idle cam with carb cleaner. It doesn't take much dirt for them to get sticky.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2016 | 09:30 AM
  #132  
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That smoke from the drivers side could well be oil that is still burning off from before.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2016 | 09:32 AM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
Only smoke creates a haze, steam will dissipate.

You should expect some pressure and oil mist from the breather if the pcv is not connected and doing its job.

Try hosing down the fast idle cam with carb cleaner. It doesn't take much dirt for them to get sticky.
I will spray some carb cleaner on it, but it is a brand new carb so I could not imagine it being sticky already. I got the tie rod out using a puller and fork (AutoZone figured out how to use cash!! A gold star for them) and so I can take it for a drive soon (to go get aligned and balanced) and see what happens to the smoke.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2016 | 09:40 AM
  #134  
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I agree, oil leaves a haze, not moisture ... I would run it for some hours before worrying about it ... It's been setting a long time, so things can be a little sticky and or residual oils left behind.

It's a brand new carburetor it should not need any hosing down ...

The high idle sticking is new since this last install, I suspect either the electric choke is on, thus fast idle, or the cable is not allowing it to return ... Check everything is working smoothly.

The modulator valve has a vacuum line coming from the transmission that plugs into the vacuum system some place. But I suspect if it was a modulator you would have a much larger steam of smoke.
It won't hurt to unplug it and plug the vacuum port it came off, just don't drive it with it off.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Aug 22, 2016 | 09:52 AM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by Festus Hagen
The high idle sticking is new since this last install
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
I noticed it before removal, but did not worry about it because I was having to remove it again anyway. The cable and kick down bar do not get caught back, just the assembly connected to it. It may have something to do with the Edelbrock throttle cable adapter that had to be installed for Ford. I will check that. I will also try removing the other vacuum lines (besides brake) and see what happens.
 
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