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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Leaking Oil

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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 06:36 PM
  #16  
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There's no oil passages in the manifold faces, and that's a lot of oil.

Is the pcv hooked up correctly?
 
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 06:54 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
I usually use two bolts with the heads cut off, in opposite corners so it drops straight down.
The studs would be at an angle, how can it slide straight down ... opposite corners will cause it to rotate down.

Am I missing something?

Originally Posted by hharris8
How can you tell and what is the difficulty of changing?
I believe ArdWrknTrk is referring to the Intake rear seal. The one created with RTV.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 06:59 PM
  #18  
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I have some vertical bolts on my 460.

Maybe the op doesn't?

If his intake gaskets are slathered (both sides) in gaskacinch there is no hope of not destroying them.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 07:06 PM
  #19  
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I have 12 vertical bolts. It is the Edelbrock 2121 manifold. I would upload a pic, but the pic uploader keeps giving me an error. It is this one: Edelbrock 2121 | Buy Edelbrock Performer Manifolds for Ford at JEGS.


I will pull the manifold and try again Friday (maybe tomorrow if I can find time between classes).
 
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 07:28 PM
  #20  
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I learned something ... Ford has vertical intake bolts!

Ok, Cool that's the trick then!

Thanks ArdWrknTrk for setting me straight!

I always say I don't know Ford gassers, because I don't know these kind of details!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 07:52 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by hharris8
I would upload a pic, but the pic uploader keeps giving me an error.
What's the error? Test pic uploaded here... I merely clicked the mountain & sun icon, chose some random image on the computer, and inserted it into this post... did this from a laptop running 'doze 10 & Firefox.





As for the front & rear intake manifold gaskets and not using the supplied end pieces (replacing them with RTV) I've done it both ways. Engine builder friend of mine taught me how to install the supplied end pieces, apparently they like to get squished out when tightening the manifold.

In any event, glue the pieces onto the block with RTV, let it set at least overnight before installing and torquing down the manifold. I did it this way on my brother's 351W last summer and it worked fine.

Jim (Ard) is right in that there aren't any oil passages in the intake manifold.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 08:10 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Festus Hagen
I learned something ... Ford has vertical intake bolts!

Ok, Cool that's the trick then!
Yeah... what I do is insert 4 studs in the 4 threads (two on each side) near the carburetor, these help greatly with alignment during installation and can be removed afterwards. I use the same studs technique when installing manual transmissions.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 08:16 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
What's the error? Test pic uploaded here... I merely clicked the mountain & sun icon, chose some random image on the computer, and inserted it into this post... did this from a laptop running 'doze 10 & Firefox.





As for the front & rear intake manifold gaskets and not using the supplied end pieces (replacing them with RTV) I've done it both ways. Engine builder friend of mine taught me how to install the supplied end pieces, apparently they like to get squished out when tightening the manifold.

In any event, glue the pieces onto the block with RTV, let it set at least overnight before installing and torquing down the manifold. I did it this way on my brother's 351W last summer and it worked fine.

Jim (Ard) is right in that there aren't any oil passages in the intake manifold.
The error is cleared up now. It said there was an error and if I clicked OK it would delete the "entire album".

The Edelbrock gaskets do not even come with end pieces. Since I put RTV around the water ports will I need to buy new gaskets or just clean up the ones I have? If there are no oil passages then how am I leaking oil? Is it not the manifold?
 
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 08:19 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
There's no oil passages in the manifold faces, and that's a lot of oil.

Is the pcv hooked up correctly?
The PCV goes from the valve cover to the front of my carb. I do not think the is what is causing it.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 08:31 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by hharris8
The error is cleared up now. It said there was an error and if I clicked OK it would delete the "entire album".
OK, thanks, I turned in this info to the powers that be who run the site.

I wouldn't feel comfortable re-using the gaskets.

The oil comes from the front & rear end seals (mostly the rear), oil that falls into the valley from the heads gets splashed up along the back side of the engine as the vehicle is moving forward.

Think of driving down the highway and you throw an apple core out the window; it quickly loses its forward momentum as it falls down to the ground. In your engine's case, the rear of the engine block is still moving forward as the oil rains down into the valley.

That is what comes to *my* mind based on your pictures & description, but that would apply only to that little area in the back of the engine. Your pan missing attaching bolts doesn't help the situation at all.

Given how grody everything is, I would wash it with a wand-type of car wash thing and then watch it - and look at your PCV system as Jim suggested.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 08:36 PM
  #26  
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What would I need to look for in the PCV valve?

The dripping stopped when I put towels behind the manifold so that is the only place I have a leak (or at least a bad leak.) I will probably change the pan gasket soon anyway though and will get a bolt set.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 08:36 PM
  #27  
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I cleaned everything a whole lot more since I took those pics (at that is how I was able to find where the leak was coming from).
 
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 09:04 PM
  #28  
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Do you have the PCV system hooked up? One valve cover contains the PCV valve connected to a tube typically connected to the base (usually rear, not always) of the carburetor. Do you have that? With the engine running, remove it from the valve cover and cover it up with your thumb; is there vacuum there?

The other valve cover contains some sort of mechanism to allow fresh air into the engine to displace the volume that is removed from the valve on the other side; do you have that?

Sometimes people (kids) get all caught up in the chrome air cleaner thing and making the engine look cool to their friends without having the slightest idea of what they're doing. <-- Not saying this is you, it's just a rhetorical statement describing a class of people we oftentimes see here
 
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 09:10 PM
  #29  
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I do have the PCV valve on the passenger side and the tube runs to the front of the carb. I will check for vacuum. The driver side has a breather cap.

Not sure if the air cleaner is chrome or not, its to rusty (the cleaner part is new though). Just for my info why is a chrome breather cap bad?
 
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 09:21 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by hharris8
Just for my info why is a chrome breather cap bad?
I'm sorry, I think I confused you, I never said anything referring to chrome breather caps.

I made an assumption - since your truck has a sedan engine in it - that you wouldn't have kept the factory air cleaner configuration. The factory system allows filtered air into one side of the engine, the filter is in the air cleaner housing.

A breather cap allows for effectively the same thing. But if you don't have one installed, that would be a problem.

Regardless, the main point of "check out your PCV system" is to ensure it's connected and operational, its job is to collect all the blowby fumes - which can contain oil - and ingest them back into the combustion chambers. If you don't have this system all that stuff needs to go someplace, and that's typically the surrounding environment.
 
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