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Are aftermarket (usually chrome) air cleaners bad? It depends on where you live and how cold it gets in the winter (and where you park it overnight, in a garage or not).
The factory installation has got stuff to make cold starts & wintertime operation better, and I'll just leave it at that because it's a fair amount of stuff that all operates together (it's sometimes removed by people trying to "clean up the engine bay" and "remove all that (smog) crap" and "make it run better"). People who install aftermarket air cleaners generally end up disabling a lot of that stuff and then end up back here in the winter complaining it doesn't run well.
Hey, let's keep it on topic here! I don't judge, though.
Originally Posted by ctubutis
Engine builder friend of mine taught me how to install the supplied end pieces, apparently they like to get squished out when tightening the manifold.
In any event, glue the pieces onto the block with RTV, let it set at least overnight before installing and torquing down the manifold.
+1 on that. I took it one step further on my 351W and cut a piece of plywood to fit between the heads, but long enough to hang over the ends a little. After gluing the end seals in place with RTV, I set the plywood on top. Then I added some weights to hold the end seals down nice and flat while the RTV cured.
If is it actually a 79 Ltd Block then you need to drop the Oil pan and the rear main cap as it has a 2 piece rear main seal. If it has the original block then the tranny needs to be dropped to change it.
+1 on that. I took it one step further on my 351W and cut a piece of plywood to fit between the heads, but long enough to hang over the ends a little. After gluing the end seals in place with RTV, I set the plywood on top. Then I added some weights to hold the end seals down nice and flat while the RTV cured.
I used to set the intake on them with the gaskets, don't tighten.
But I don't use the rubber end seals any more. I prefer RTV. About the only place I do use RTV.
Clean all surfaces good, set the gaskets dry, set the manifold, check the fit, get a good visual measurement (or measured if you prefer) of the gap, pull the intake, pull the gaskets, final clean all sealing surfaces with alcohol, stack a 3/16" wide bead the gap height plus about 1/16" to 1/8", put a couple dabs of gasket cement on the gaskets (head side) to hold them, set the gaskets and carefully set the intake straight down without adjustment after it touches the RTV. Tighten and let set for 24 hours.
If the intake gaskets are not coated, I use a couple thin coats of spray copper coat on them. Most good gaskets don't need it.
That's what works for me and I'm sticking to it!
Oh, and by the way, never use the valley area to lay tools and things ... Unless you have a valley tool tray.
It's a real day spoiler when you show up the next day to finish and realize you left tools under the fresh set intake!
Gasket is coming in Saturday (supposed to be Friday, but Amazon changed date to Tuesday even when I pay for prime two day shipping so I re-ordered and with extra shipping cost I will get it Saturday.) Anyway, what are the square pieces and the o ring for in this kit? The instructions does not mention them.
I don,t know if you ever thought of using a leak detector.I made one and am selling it for do it yourself repairs.You can add auto pro dye to the smoke used to locate small leaks but the smoke is great for large and medium leaks that the eye can't locate and then the use of a ultraviolet light and it will locate any leak any were.
Yes it does pressurize but I installed a regulator that only allows the output pressure to get up to less then a half a pound as to not damage anything in the evap system namely the pressure valve in the gas tank.No matter what your compressor is set at the output cant change it is regulated.And as I said for smaller leaks you can add auto pro dye and use a ultraviolet light to locate all leaks.I have tested this in the exhaust it locates leaks even in the weld,s it can test the cooling system the power steering the transmission and even the rear end and axle seals.It includes a 6' output hose a 6' power connector with battery connectors to connect to the battery of the vehicle your working on and a 8" carabiner hook to hook under the hood on the hood spring while testing.
Don't know enough about this site to know if its possible to carry on a conversation on the site but yes it does pressurize but like I said not enough to damage anything in the automobile even seals less then a half a pound can stop pressure with finger.
Sure, it's possible to derail a thread by changing the topic, but I'd hope we don't do that. I consider it the OP's choice to decide if he wants to pursue your solution or not, since it's him that has the leaking engine. I was just kind of curious how the thing works. Anybody else is free to ask questions, too; if somebody wants to purchase one, I'd ask them to take that conversation to PMs with you.
The idea of using dye that shows up under black light is a good one, I know the local NAPA store sells it.
Mr hharris8 I am a vendor I have paid to advertise on this site and I was told to start conversations were my tool could be of help to the individual talking about leaks of any sort.Just ask Tico Adalberto I believe he is in advertising and also the one who told me to start conversations where my tool would benefit the individual with a problem that my tool would help solve.So this is why I spoke up not to change the subject but because I was told to do so were the problem could possibility be resolved by the use of my tool and if your interested in how it works check out my vendor advertisement under vendors
The Ultimate Automotive Leak Detector
Or to save time I could just tell you it heats mineral oil to the point of smoke It hooks to a compressor but is regulated to 1/2 a pound as to not hurt anything in the automobile and the dye is added to 16 ounces of mineral oil to 8 ounces auto pro dye and yes the particulates are broke down and transfer along in the smoke to the leak location were they stain even a pin hole in a hose a gasket a seal even exhaust welds and coupled together pieces it locates and marks the tiniest of leaks.When you look for them with the ultraviolet light also sold at auto parts And as I said the leak finding possibility,s are it can be used in the cooling system air conditioning power steering complete engine from the intake manifold to the oil pan the rear seal you name it were oil or water can go so can smoke and it can mark those impossible leaks to locate.So please don't think I was imposing were I shouldn't because that is what I was told just today to do by
Tico Adalberto.Also one last thing I was told not to mention price on threads but it is on my vendor site and I use PayPal for purcheses and shipping of the tool for any interested in it.
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