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I had another question about the intake. When the truck was running it had a good bit of white smoke coming out of the driver exhaust (dual exhaust). It could have been some SeaFoam I put in this spring or something burning off from installing new parts, but I wanted to make sure, since going in this deep, that I do not need to replace anything else.
It is hard to fill the tank up because overtime I insert the nozzle it puts about a gallon in and then it got in about 3 oz at the time like something is stopping it. I don't think it is full though (gauge does not work).
Maybe if I run this tank out and start a new tank it will stop.
No, doesn't work that way; voodoo chemicals like that added to the gas tank will come out both sides of the exhaust. If you have one side making a different color exhaust than the other side, then there is a mechanical issue someplace - my guess is a leaking intake manifold gasket, hope it's something easy like that and not a cracked block or head.
And whoever explained about the valley not being involved is also correct; the air/fuel mixture is piped to each cylinder via individual channels. And there are coolant crossover channels that need to be kept isolated, that stuff can enter the combustion chambers (and the oil pan via the valley) when leaks occur.
In short - looking also at your oil leaks in the back and barring any cracked engine components - it looks like whoever installed the intake manifold did a particularly poor job and it needs to be reinstalled properly.
They say third times the charm so after this next time does not work I will get it right.
So, it was you who did this? Hmmm... OK, this is how you learn.
Look up & follow the bolt installation & tightening sequence. The last Wheezer engine I did, I think I used a grey RTV-type of sealant that's resistant to oil & chemicals. You need only a THIN layer at the manifold water (coolant) flanges, and some gaskets say to not use any at all as they have sealant already installed in the gaskets themselves that gets released upon torquing down. I install 4 studs into the holes nearest the carburetor/intake area, this allows the manifold itself to be dropped straight down and, again, the correct tightening sequence is critical - your goal is to apply pressure evenly across all surfaces.
It occurs to me, you have some pretty big fluid leaks from what I remember of your pictures; it is possible some of that is water (coolant) that's washing off/mixing with the surrounding already-accumulated oily gunk.
hharris states he is using the Edelbrock 7220 gaskets, when I looked them up I see sealant on them, yet reading the Edelbrock intake GENERAL installation instructions it says to use Gasgacinch on the gaskets and RTV for the front and rear seals.
One doesn't typically use anything on coated gaskets. So I would check with Edelbrock to ensure.
The intake has coolant channels in it so I think it could leak into valley and burn.
As Festus said, a coolant leak into the valley would mix with the oil. Check the dipstick and underside of the oil cap for a milky appearance.
A more likely scenario is a leak at the gasket between the intake manifold and one of the heads. The manifold vacuum would draw in coolant, which would get drawn into the closest cylinder and burned.
The coolant passages are at the front and back, right? Look at the spark plugs from the adjacent cylinders and see if they look different from the others.
You could also run a pressure test on the cooling system.
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