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The smoker was designed for those type of leaks if its a large or medium the smoke will come out like massively if its a small leak that's were the dye in the mix comes in it will stain the leak location with the dye.Quick to locate.
One more tip: Lay a pair of stout dowels (or similar) from one valve cover to the other. This supports the manifold when you first align it on the studs. This lets you take a breather when installing the manifold, instead of wrestling it all the way into place in one fell swoop. Double check everything one last time, and then remove the dowels and gently lower the manifold.
Good idea. It is hard to get it in there with he thermostat housing on it and the distributor still installed.
I will call Edelbrock about what types of sealant to use. That fuel build up was all in passages for cylinders 2, 3, 6, 7, and 8. It may have been from when I was not getting fuel combustion while timing though.
It doesn't look like the RTV in your 1st picture post #64 was near high enough to seal to the intake.
You need a TALL solid bead at each end.
I think all that sludge in one part of your intake is explanation enough for smokey exhaust (yes, I know it's a dual plane)
Looks very dirty.
Is that transmission fluid, rather than oil? (Maybe a blown modulator?)
It's very hard for me to visualize everything when all I have is a closeup on a phone screen.
I can take some more pics further out than you like. The PCV valve was plugged into the lower center of the front of the carb. It is the same one that has been on there for a long time (at least for 15-20 years) so it easily could have come from there. It could also be a blown modulator. How would I check for that? The #1, 4, 5, and 8 were clean (8 had some of the sludge, but was not as bad as the others).
Brand new carb so I think it should be working properly.
It doesn't look like the RTV in your 1st picture post #64 was near high enough to seal to the intake.
You need a TALL solid bead at each end.
I think all that sludge in one part of your intake is explanation enough for smokey exhaust (yes, I know it's a dual plane)
Looks very dirty.
Is that transmission fluid, rather than oil? (Maybe a blown modulator?)
It's very hard for me to visualize everything when all I have is a closeup on a phone screen.
Yup, I agree, I like to dry set everything and visually measure (or physically if you prefer) the gap, then build my bead.
Ah, Yes, the modulator is another possibility, thanks pedant.
I cleaned both parts with a razor blade. May need a little more cleaning, but the razor blade slid over smoothly. I even used some gasket remover ( I have to repaint anyway. Fuel line sprayed when I disconnected it and the paint bubbled. Not sure why engine enamel paint is not gas resistant.) Here are some pics of it from a little more distance. The pic with the carb in it has a rubber tube where the PCV valve goes onto it. I have to get the shop vac in the valley to get out any gasket or coolant that fell in as well.
I can take some more pics further out than you like. The PCV valve was plugged into the lower center of the front of the carb. It is the same one that has been on there for a long time (at least for 15-20 years) so it easily could have come from there. It could also be a blown modulator. How would I check for that? The #1, 4, 5, and 8 were clean (8 had some of the sludge, but was not as bad as the others).
Brand new carb so I think it should be working properly.
You really don't need the PCV or Transmission Modulator valve hooked up to just run the motor ...
So, maybe it would be a good idea to plug the vacuum ports they plug into and leave them unhooked until the motor is up and running.
Just a thought!
Of course they need to be hooked up to do the final tune up adjustments.
And at least the modulator hooked up for a test drive.
I cleaned both parts with a razor blade. May need a little more cleaning, but the razor blade slid over smoothly. I even used some gasket remover ( I have to repaint anyway. Fuel line sprayed when I disconnected it and the paint bubbled. Not sure why engine enamel paint is not gas resistant.) Here are some pics of it from a little more distance. The pic with the carb in it has a rubber tube where the PCV valve goes onto it. I have to get the shop vac in the valley to get out any gasket or coolant that fell in as well.
Use some steel wool to clean the heads and block, get all that RTV off to shiny metal.
You really should lay tissues (paper towels work) in the valley to catch debris.
Just don't forget to remove them!
Does any of the vacuum lines connected to the carburetor or intake have oil in them?
I will check the lines for oil. I called Edelbrock and just FYI for the Edelbrock 7220 gasket set Gaskacinch is put on the heads, then the gaskets are laid in place and a thin layer of RTV is placed around each water port on the manifold side only, then a 1/4" bead of RTV is placed for the ned seals, and then the manifold is put on and tightened in the proper sequence. The circle gasket is the distributor gasket.
And the little pieces are for the exhaust crossover?
Yes, the Gaskacinch is just there to keep the intake gaskets glued in place while the manifold is tightened down.
Otherwise they can slip.
I forgot to ask about the little pieces. I bet that is what they are for though. Would call back, but their wait time to get from operator to technician is on average 10 minutes.
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