Or a leak-down test - pressurize each cylinder one at a time with air and look for bubbles coming up at the radiator fill neck.

 

Your rite Festus didn't mean to be a pushy salesman Like I said was told from the advertising dept to get more involved in the threads that had something to do with my tool or something my tool could help with so I will try to help out where I can with the tool I built and patented and leave it at that no pushy.

 

I wanted to say "he did it, he did it!", but it was me. I used the tightening sequence and tightened to the recommended torque. I made some of those studs and will use them this time.

I will check the spark plugs and oil cap. How can I check the gasket Yes the coolant passages are in the front and back.

 

Why does the lower barrel of this manifold have this sludge? Is this real bad or can it be corrected? I also included a pic of where it was leaking in the back.

 

How can I pressurize each cylinder?

 

And for you ctubutis yes there is many different things you can do to find leaks but with my leak detector you add dye to the oil that turns into smoke and it will dye a pin hole in a radiator or a radiator hose power steering hoses the hard to locate leaks high pressure lines when in the radiator neck you hold a towel or rag over the neck to allow the smoke to enter but it has to leave another way and it will stain all the leak locations the hoses the radiator the water pump the thermostat housing and so on.

 

I've seen/heard of this concept of using smoke elsewhere on FTE over the years, this is a good idea. The dye is reminiscent of the stuff you can add to air conditioning system oil, bright, yellow spots will appear near any leaks.

hharris is an 18 yo college kid just learning this stuff and I doubt he has an air compressor, but that can always change.

 

What I do:

- Remove all spark plugs

- Bring piston associated with cylinder to be tested to TDC on compression stroke (or someplace thereabouts, just so the valves seal - true TDC isn't necessary)

- I use a hose from a compression-testing gauge; remove the gauge itself (mine has the typical 1/4" NPT quick-connect air fitting) and attach the hose to the air compressor's output. I typically use 50 psi or so; if you use a lot, it's gonna want to push the piston back down into the bore - unless 1) the piston is at exact TDC, or 2) the target engine has a stick shift, in which case you can put the shifter in one of the gears... being connected to the drivetrain will keep the engine from turning over (unless the clutch is shot, in which case you've got additional problems).

- Listen & look in the various places for leaks - in this case, look for bubbles coming up in the radiator. Might also listen in the carburetor, in the exhaust, in the oil filler hole in the valve cover.

But since you've already disassembled it, it's too late for this test.

~~

Only explanation for the sludge in half the manifold that I can see offhand is fuel dripping into that half from the carburetor; I would wash that stuff out with brake or carb cleaner before reassembly and verify the carburetor's correct operation.

~~

I see what looks to be a LOT of gasket material remaining at a water crossover port at the back... is this evidence of a typical male approach of "more is better?"

 

One more tip: Lay a pair of stout dowels (or similar) from one valve cover to the other. This supports the manifold when you first align it on the studs. This lets you take a breather when installing the manifold, instead of wrestling it all the way into place in one fell swoop. Double check everything one last time, and then remove the dowels and gently lower the manifold.

 

I did put a small bead of RTV around the water ports and Gaskacinch both pf which I put on both sides of the gasket. I cleaned the engine of any gasket material and now have to do the intake cleaning. The one time I did not want the gasket to stick it stuck good. I have been cleaning it and it does not want to come up.

When the gaskets come in tomorrow should I use gaskacinch on both sides of the gaskets and engine and manifold like last time? Also does my end seal RTV bead look high enough. Not sure why it was leaking so badly.

 

The only gotcha here is this test only finds leaks between the combustion chamber and the cooling system. It's very good at finding that type.

But if the leak is between the cooling system and the intake manifold passages (such as a gasket not sealing between the intake manifold head and a cylinder head), that test won't find it. The only way I know to check for that is a pressure test of the cooling system.

Then again, there is stuff the cooling system pressure test won't find, so just be aware of the limitations of each. Neither one is 100% conclusive, so don't get fooled by that. You may find you need to run both, I don't know.

 

I have access to an air compressor if I need to use one for anything.

 

I would follow their instructions; not all gaskets are constructed the same and some don't want any additional sealant and rely on clean surfaces for the built-in, supplied sealant to do its job.

When I use RTV, I smooth the stuff out on the surfaces and create a really, really thin layer.

 

I see exactly where your leak in the rear intake seal is, it is clear you didn't get an even bead of RTV and left a notch at about 10 or 11 o-clock of that plugged access hole.
If you've ever looked at good welds, they look like stacked dimes, that is what you are after when applying the bead, same look.

If you used Gasgacinch on the head side and the gaskets came off the heads easy, they were not clean!

This is also evident in the fact that they are not coming off the new manifold as easy.
If you use gasket remover it's going to mess up your paint job.

Be careful not to scratch or nick the surfaces.

Use only a sharp smooth blade for a scraper, no nicks in the blade and keep it flat, work slowly and carefully.

I agree with the over use of RTV on the water ports ... It is of my opinion they should have none! But I am only going by the pictures of the 7220 gaskets, they look to me like they come pre coated with sealant.

Personally, if it was me, I would call Edelbrock and tell them I am using the 7220 gaskets, they look like they have factory applied sealant (if they actually do), do I still use Gasgacinch around the intake ports and RTV around the water ports.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

A freaking man!

Just think like a gap, that is all that's needed!
Anymore just squishes out and goes places you may not want it ...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~