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So according to my brother in law, who is an ase master mechanic, if the sensor is good, and the wiring is good, my only other option is the pcm being bad.
He's absolutely correct. But I don't see anything in this thread where you've checked the wiring. I see where you looked at it, but that will only find the most obvious problem. 90% of wiring problems look just fine when you look at the harness. An electrical check will find the root cause of this.
He's absolutely correct. But I don't see anything in this thread where you've checked the wiring. I see where you looked at it, but that will only find the most obvious problem. 90% of wiring problems look just fine when you look at the harness. An electrical check will find the root cause of this.
You're right, I've only been able to look and feel the wiring for faults. I just picked up my volt meter and am awaiting the info from Sean to actually test. It's there a good product I can spray in the connectors to help clem them out?
Thank you. Well it seems I'm not getting voltage to pin 18, so I've got a short in the harness or a bad pcm. I'm thinking of sending voltage down the harness on pin 18 to see if it makes it to the other end, I'll let you know what I find out
For some reason I am not getting any Email that someone has posted.
So if I don't get back to a thread very quickly that is why.
Anyone else having this issue?
For some reason I am not getting any Email that someone has posted.
So if I don't get back to a thread very quickly that is why.
Anyone else having this issue?
I'm not. I just put a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to pin # 26 on the pcm side of the harness. If measured 12.30v and put my voltmeter on pin #18 of the transmission side of the harness and got 12.30v.
I don't like making that call but I think unless someone has a better idea.
I think I would give the people at FICM Repair a call and see what Ed thinks.
BTW this is the first Email alert I have gotten in the last 16Hrs.
I'm not. I just put a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to pin # 26 on the pcm side of the harness. If measured 12.30v and put my voltmeter on pin #18 of the transmission side of the harness and got 12.30v.
Is pcm the only option at this point?
It sounds like you're only testing the external chassis harness.
Like I suggested 20 some posts ago, it's probably a bad harness/connection on the internal harness. Until you drop the pan and test it I would not be replacing a PCM, unless you want to waste money.
It sounds like you're only testing the external chassis harness.
Like I suggested 20 some posts ago, it's probably a bad harness/connection on the internal harness. Until you drop the pan and test it I would not be replacing a PCM, unless you want to waste money.
I agree. All things in this post suggest a harness issue. Disconnect the plugs at the PCM, and clean them up with an electrical contact spray, let them COMPLETELY dry, reconnect. Perform the harness checks that have been discussed above already. See if the issue is gone.
The likelihood of a bad PCM here is low...at best.
Hi Ed, I see you made it.
I called Ed to ask what he was thinking on this. After the chat
I must say that I think the harness some more looking at.
Any time you unplug a connector you can change a non-connecting
status to a connecting status. Like Ed said clean and retest. I would also
remove the covers and have a look at the crimp ends of the pins.
If you happen to find any green looking fuzz that can be an issue. Also
probing a connector from the front side has it's own risks. You want to back
probe a connector so you don't open up the socket with the tool that your
probing with.
Other things to look at when you get the covers off the connector is any broken
wires at the crimp. You will need a magnifying lens to look. A 2.5X~5X should
do the trick.
If the DMM you got has continuity test with tone that is one of the best ways
to do the wiggle test. You can hear it change tone as you wiggle a bad connection.
That way you don't have to have your eyes glued to the display.
P.S. Ed if you read this. Fedex has delivered the Ball Joint to my house.
So guess what I am doing if Sunday happens to be a dry day and my leg
and knee quits hurting.
I agree. All things in this post suggest a harness issue. Disconnect the plugs at the PCM, and clean them up with an electrical contact spray, let them COMPLETELY dry, reconnect. Perform the harness checks that have been discussed above already. See if the issue is gone.
The likelihood of a bad PCM here is low...at best.
Good luck!
Thanks to you both. To be honest, i was trying to avoid opening the pan for a third time initially, and forgot your suggestion about the internal harness in my angst about the thought of having to buy a pcm.
Ficmrepair.com, thank you for the insight. I'll be cleaning out my drain pan in the morning and cleaning/ checking everything.
Hi Ed, I see you made it.
I called Ed to ask what he was thinking on this. After the chat
I must say that I think the harness some more looking at.
Any time you unplug a connector you can change a non-connecting
status to a connecting status. Like Ed said clean and retest. I would also
remove the covers and have a look at the crimp ends of the pins.
If you happen to find any green looking fuzz that can be an issue. Also
probing a connector from the front side has it's own risks. You want to back
probe a connector so you don't open up the socket with the tool that your
probing with.
Other things to look at when you get the covers off the connector is any broken
wires at the crimp. You will need a magnifying lens to look. A 2.5X~5X should
do the trick.
If the DMM you got has continuity test with tone that is one of the best ways
to do the wiggle test. You can hear it change tone as you wiggle a bad connection.
That way you don't have to have your eyes glued to the display.
P.S. Ed if you read this. Fedex has delivered the Ball Joint to my house.
So guess what I am doing if Sunday happens to be a dry day and my leg
and knee quits hurting.
Thank you. Well it seems I'm not getting voltage to pin 18, so I've got a short in the harness or a bad pcm. I'm thinking of sending voltage down the harness on pin 18 to see if it makes it to the other end, I'll let you know what I find out
That's what an ohm test does
Pins 18 and 22 should be unplugged from PCM for this one DVM set to ohm
Don't send 12 volts on a 5 volt circuit keep it short time on
Did you back probe the conector while it was plugged in to PCM @ KOEO for you volts test
these tests are precise tests
Test execution needs to be Exact
That's what an ohm test does
Pins 18 and 22 should be unplugged from PCM for this one
I tried testing for ohms initially, but in retrospect, I think I was getting incorrect readings from a bad ground point.
My method was to attempt to test voltage per the pdf, and when I didn't get a good reading, I moved on per the instructions. As I understand, to test ohms, I need to unhook both ends of the harness, and put a probe at pin 18 and 22 respectively. I did get my longest leads, but they are in no way long enough to reach that far. Should I make them and try again?
Don't send 12 volts on a 5 volt circuit keep it short time on
Roger that
Did you back probe the conector while it was plugged in to PCM @ KOEO for you volts test
I'm not sure what koeo is, I tested the connector at pin 18 at the transmission connector. Please advise if I missed something.
these tests are precise tests
Test execution needs to be Exact
I will retest in the morning. Guys I'm new to all of this, and is a bit overwhelming, so once again thank you for all your input and patience. Sadly I'm feeling way behind the curve here.
Electrical troubleshoot is one of the hardest things for people to grasp think of it like Flowing water flowing from point A to B back to A
I suck at explaining so if your unsure you better off to ask or you will fry Computers/sensors etc.... if hooked up wrong and you send power down a circuit
Do NOT unhook Both ends for ohm test
you will only test Pins 18 and 22 at the Same Connector at pcm driver battery with harness plugged in at the trans were going to flow power thru the Wires and the sensor back to PCM Plug
not from PCM to Trans
Ohm test will send a small amount power thru the circuit and measure return volts from that is will calculate resistence
