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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 10:21 AM
  #76  
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Just pulled up the spreadsheet I used to price a 2015 I almost purchased.


In 2015, the difference between invoice and MSRP was right around 17% on options. The difference between the two in 2017 is far less.


Up fitters switches were 107/125 in 2015 and today it is 115/125. (invoice/MSRP)
Clearance lights were 48/55 in 2015 and today it is 51/55.


The MSRP hasn't changed, but the spread between MSRP and invoice has certainly narrowed.


Adam
 
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 01:41 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by Adam R
Just pulled up the spreadsheet I used to price a 2015 I almost purchased.


In 2015, the difference between invoice and MSRP was right around 17% on options. The difference between the two in 2017 is far less.


Up fitters switches were 107/125 in 2015 and today it is 115/125. (invoice/MSRP)
Clearance lights were 48/55 in 2015 and today it is 51/55.


The MSRP hasn't changed, but the spread between MSRP and invoice has certainly narrowed.


Adam

Where are you getting those numbers for today, meaning 2017? MSRP comes up on the build site, but not invoice.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 03:01 PM
  #78  
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Post #64 above. Screen shot of his build that has MSRP and invoice pricing side by side.


Adam
 
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 05:56 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by Adam R
Post #64 above. Screen shot of his build that has MSRP and invoice pricing side by side.


Adam
Big duh on may part, that was my post in #64.
Thanks.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 07:31 AM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by Spamfritter
Except that it isn't. Financial institutions do not loan money for free. 0% interest does not mean that the loan costs you nothing. Banks are all about risk vs. reward. If you qualify for 0% financing, you represent a minimal risk in terms of the bank getting its money back. That said, its still a risk and thus they won't loan out their money and put it at risk without benefiting from it in some way. If you look at the fine print you'll see there is a charge $xx.xx per $1,000 financed. I've seen this up front in the form of a one time financing charge or something added to the monthly payment. Sometimes the price of the vehicle is discounted enough to mask it. You dig deep enough into the paperwork and you'll see that there is no such thing as a free loan.
On a vehicle, the drawback of 0% interest is that you lose the rebates. If you read the fine print like you say, that charge of $xx.xx per $1,000 financed is the payment amount. So, if it is 60 months at 0%, that value will be $16.67. It's not a finance charge, but a payment amount.

There is none of this 'miss a payment and you pay interest to day 1' on typical 0% car loans. Ford is essentially paying the interest for you in lieu of you getting rebates. Typically, you are better taking the rebates and getting a low interest rate.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 08:07 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by fordmantpw
There is none of this 'miss a payment and you pay interest to day 1' on typical 0% car loans. Ford is essentially paying the interest for you in lieu of you getting rebates. Typically, you are better taking the rebates and getting a low interest rate.
Thanks for clarifying that point. As far as getting cheaper rates one of the best tools is double payments. Rather than run the load out full term doubling up on the payments can drastically change the amount of interest paid, especially if paying down the loan right from the start. Reduce the principle and reduce the total interest paid. But with vehicle prices approaching the stratosphere this option gets harder and harder for many.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 08:12 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by Rasalas
Thanks for clarifying that point. As far as getting cheaper rates one of the best tools is double payments. Rather than run the load out full term doubling up on the payments can drastically change the amount of interest paid, especially if paying down the loan right from the start.
This is a great point. I take the Ford rebates, usually there is a $750 or $1000 rebate for financing w/ Ford. I do it, because I'll pay double or even triple payments which really reduces interest like crazy. If there's a month when I need cash for other things, fine, I make the minimum payment and don't worry about it.

If you know up front you'll never be able to make extra payments, then go for the lowest interest rates.

On a side note, the build and price was showing a $500 rebate for financing with Ford (at 4.9%...choke...) but that rebate seems to have disappeared? It said it was good until October something.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 08:15 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by fordmantpw
On a vehicle, the drawback of 0% interest is that you lose the rebates. If you read the fine print like you say, that charge of $xx.xx per $1,000 financed is the payment amount. So, if it is 60 months at 0%, that value will be $16.67. It's not a finance charge, but a payment amount.

There is none of this 'miss a payment and you pay interest to day 1' on typical 0% car loans. Ford is essentially paying the interest for you in lieu of you getting rebates. Typically, you are better taking the rebates and getting a low interest rate.
The $xx.xx per $1,000 financed is how Ford Motor Credit makes its money off your loan. It certainly is a finance charge even if they don't call it that. You are correct in that a large amount of discounts and rebates could very well be worth taking a loan that has a low interest rate. The 2016 Super Duty and F-150's are good examples of this. Dealers are offering up to around $16,000 off Super Duty trucks and $13,000 off F-150 in my area. Depending on how the deal is structured, 0% might not be a good deal.

I have never heard of the "miss a payment and you pay interest to day 1" on a car loan.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 08:17 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by Rasalas
Thanks for clarifying that point. As far as getting cheaper rates one of the best tools is double payments. Rather than run the load out full term doubling up on the payments can drastically change the amount of interest paid, especially if paying down the loan right from the start. Reduce the principle and reduce the total interest paid. But with vehicle prices approaching the stratosphere this option gets harder and harder for many.
Agreed. It doesn't have to be double payments, though, just a few extra bucks per month helps. We 'rounded up' our house payment, paying an extra $21/month, and it doesn't seem like much, but in the end, it will shave 6 payments off the end of the loan. Any small amount you can contribute directly to the principle helps drastically.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 08:23 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by troverman

On a side note, the build and price was showing a $500 rebate for financing with Ford (at 4.9%...choke...) but that rebate seems to have disappeared? It said it was good until October something.
The caveat to many of the financing and rebates is the fine print. "On certain vehicles" "For qualified customers" "For Students" "First time buyer" "Military service". "In stock dealer vehicles" "2016 Vehicles"
The headlines seem to disappear when sitting with the finance guru but they can often find outside financing at less of a rate. We bought our Lincoln this spring and wound up with a 1.7% APR through a local credit union which the dealer found for us. We are happy with that. Investments stay invested when the APR can stay that low.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 08:50 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by troverman
This is a great point. I take the Ford rebates, usually there is a $750 or $1000 rebate for financing w/ Ford. I do it, because I'll pay double or even triple payments which really reduces interest like crazy. If there's a month when I need cash for other things, fine, I make the minimum payment and don't worry about it.

If you know up front you'll never be able to make extra payments, then go for the lowest interest rates.

On a side note, the build and price was showing a $500 rebate for financing with Ford (at 4.9%...choke...) but that rebate seems to have disappeared? It said it was good until October something.
I financed a few $K on my 2009 F150 to get the rebates and paid it off with the first payment. Kind of silly that you need to do that to get all of the rebates.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2016 | 05:53 PM
  #87  
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You guys are killing me..... You spend multiple years drilling down the the things you like and don't like about the different Ford models and then spend the equal amount of time "gaming" the couple thousand dollars the dealer makes and on the sale of a brand new awesome model?

Do you have any idea what it costs to run a business? Or a dealership for that matter.

I know I will get jumped on for this, but those of you that see my point, I hope you defend me
 
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Old Aug 20, 2016 | 05:58 PM
  #88  
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It's like they say.....The guy in Ferrari complaining that gas went up a dime. He got the Ferrari by being that way.....lol. A dime's a dime.....
 
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Old Aug 20, 2016 | 06:54 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by 1965F100(3onthetree)
You guys are killing me..... You spend multiple years drilling down the the things you like and don't like about the different Ford models and then spend the equal amount of time "gaming" the couple thousand dollars the dealer makes and on the sale of a brand new awesome model?

Do you have any idea what it costs to run a business? Or a dealership for that matter.

I know I will get jumped on for this, but those of you that see my point, I hope you defend me
I see your point but the fact is that dealers are out to screw you for as much money as they can. If they had a flat markup on invoice of each vehicle with no haggling and no bull****, with financing left up to your credit rating and down payment alone, we'd all be a lot better off. The dealerships and the whole, corrupt dealership system has created this adversarial process. I have nothing but respect for people who can manage to wear down a dealer enough to actually get a good deal on a vehicle.

When I bought my Super Duty, the ******* had the nerve to present a price that equalled a payment of nearly $1,500 a month! So I had to get up and thank him for his time and walk out before a more reasonable offer was presented. This **** went back and fourth for a couple of days until an equitable offer was reached. It's a bull**** process.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2016 | 08:28 PM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by 1965F100(3onthetree)

Do you have any idea what it costs to run a business? Or a dealership for that matter.
To me, it seems like dealers make their money on service and parts. Selling new vehicles is tough, but that's why the factory ensures that dealers still make money because of holdback. If dealers weren't so cut throat, then consumers wouldn't have to worry about what the product costs.

The window sticker should show the invoice price, not the msrp. Dealers want to sell for as much as they can get. Many dealers will sell at or slightly below invoice, why, it's a sale and they still get holdback. If they weren't making money, they wouldn't do that.

When I bought my current truck, the dealer told me he likes sales like mine. I come in, we build the truck, it arrives, I pick it up, and they make 3% (holdback). For what, a few hours of work at most.
 
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