More brake issues
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
At least now you know what's causing the problems.
New User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
I noticed that you have the ebrake on in that picture. I suppose the shoes would be pretty mangled if that side isn't releasing the ebrake for some reason, but if you just have them on then nvm what I said hehe.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 445
Likes: 0
From: Bismarck, ND
All right guys one more question, I made the mistake of not noting which side my adjusters go on so they keep going out of adjustment, anyone know of the appropriate line up for the adjuster for front and rear shoe? 12x2.5 drums
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 4,093
Likes: 14
From: Lind, WA- Eastern WA
" To prevent incorrect installation, the socket end of each adjuster is stamped with an R or L to indicate their installation on the right or left-side of the vehicle. The adjusting pivot nuts can be distinguished by the number of lines machined around the body of the nut. Two lines indicate a right handed nut; one line indicates a left-handed nut." From the 69 Chilton manual.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Well that'll do it...
Once you start removing and installing the brake components, you'll start to understand the star adjusters. If you are facing the brakes, like in the picture, the star wheel must turn "down" to expand the shoes out into the drum. If you're accessing from the backing plate side, the star wheel always has to be turned "up". Always.
To tighten the shoes only a single tool is needed. Loosening the star adjusters, the lever needs to be pushed out of the way simultaneous to backing off the wheel. The idea of course, is that the brakes will not loosen up on their own. Note too, the self-adjusting feature needs a fairly close initial, manual adjustment of the shoes into the drums. If this is not done initially, no amount of backing up will adjust the brakes. Ever. This is a common error, if the shoes are not adjusted correctly into the drum "light drag"; the pedal will be low and mushy. Old, oversize drums will not adjust correctly. A good brake job "back in the day" involved arcing the shoes on a machine to fit the drums perfectly. This is no longer done, consequently braking action and pedal "feel" won't be what it should be right away. More adjustments will be needed to reach a good pedal height. A proper brake job will put your passenger through the windshield.
Once you start removing and installing the brake components, you'll start to understand the star adjusters. If you are facing the brakes, like in the picture, the star wheel must turn "down" to expand the shoes out into the drum. If you're accessing from the backing plate side, the star wheel always has to be turned "up". Always.
To tighten the shoes only a single tool is needed. Loosening the star adjusters, the lever needs to be pushed out of the way simultaneous to backing off the wheel. The idea of course, is that the brakes will not loosen up on their own. Note too, the self-adjusting feature needs a fairly close initial, manual adjustment of the shoes into the drums. If this is not done initially, no amount of backing up will adjust the brakes. Ever. This is a common error, if the shoes are not adjusted correctly into the drum "light drag"; the pedal will be low and mushy. Old, oversize drums will not adjust correctly. A good brake job "back in the day" involved arcing the shoes on a machine to fit the drums perfectly. This is no longer done, consequently braking action and pedal "feel" won't be what it should be right away. More adjustments will be needed to reach a good pedal height. A proper brake job will put your passenger through the windshield.
How messed up my truck would be without you guys.
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