More brake issues
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 445
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From: Bismarck, ND
Well gonna revive this, new MC came in and installed it, with no improvement. A few things I noted, when the Ebrake is on the pedal will not go to the floor (it has resistance) take off Ebrake and it goes to the floor.
NOW that means 1. Not adjusted shoes in the rear(but also note that 3 weeks ago I had spun both rear drums and there was resistance and front has too). 2 with the P-Valve being shifted to (I believe the rears), it gets just enough fluid to actually touch the drums and offer a small amount of braking power (it probably has same brake distance as a fully loaded 18 wheeler
NOW that means 1. Not adjusted shoes in the rear(but also note that 3 weeks ago I had spun both rear drums and there was resistance and front has too). 2 with the P-Valve being shifted to (I believe the rears), it gets just enough fluid to actually touch the drums and offer a small amount of braking power (it probably has same brake distance as a fully loaded 18 wheeler
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Have you cleaned the crap out of the P-Valve and reset the piston to center?
If you've had all the drums turned adjust the shoes up too the drums till they won't turn then back off the adjuster 4-5 clicks om all 4 wheels. Then check pedal if everything is assembled the way it's suppose to be then you should have a half pedal with out engine running.
Orich
If you've had all the drums turned adjust the shoes up too the drums till they won't turn then back off the adjuster 4-5 clicks om all 4 wheels. Then check pedal if everything is assembled the way it's suppose to be then you should have a half pedal with out engine running.
Orich
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2015
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From: Bismarck, ND
Have you cleaned the crap out of the P-Valve and reset the piston to center?
If you've had all the drums turned adjust the shoes up too the drums till they won't turn then back off the adjuster 4-5 clicks om all 4 wheels. Then check pedal if everything is assembled the way it's suppose to be then you should have a half pedal with out engine running.
Orich
If you've had all the drums turned adjust the shoes up too the drums till they won't turn then back off the adjuster 4-5 clicks om all 4 wheels. Then check pedal if everything is assembled the way it's suppose to be then you should have a half pedal with out engine running.
Orich
The issue is I have no clue which way the P-Valve is switched to, it happened while driving and I noticed the rear reservoir was lower(from the leaky rear seal of the MC of course) so that means my front was tripped? I drove the truck for about two weeks after this happened with nothing bad.
How does one clean out the P-Valve?
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Nope haven't even taken off the P-valve yet, I'm running into town to get some speed bleeders to replace my stripped screws and getting the proper MC bleeding kit, I'm not letting this truck sit any long.
The issue is I have no clue which way the P-Valve is switched to, it happened while driving and I noticed the rear reservoir was lower(from the leaky rear seal of the MC of course) so that means my front was tripped? I drove the truck for about two weeks after this happened with nothing bad.
How does one clean out the P-Valve?
The issue is I have no clue which way the P-Valve is switched to, it happened while driving and I noticed the rear reservoir was lower(from the leaky rear seal of the MC of course) so that means my front was tripped? I drove the truck for about two weeks after this happened with nothing bad.
How does one clean out the P-Valve?
Then made the little centering tool put it all back together with no leaks from the flat face O-rings the are on each end of the piston rod.
Some guys have it easier to pull a part, I replaced all the hard lines at that time and figured it was time to figure out how to re-set it..
Orich
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2015
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From: Bismarck, ND
Well mine was off set for more then25+ yrs and never any problem bleeding the system gravity bleeding. The only way I got the piston out of mine was plugging out the open ports and using the master to push it out. But damn it took both feet pushing on the B-pedal hard and holding on to the steering wheel before the piston move out enough to pull it out long noise vise gripes plus being careful not to mess it up. Brake cleaner and a sofa born brush. I soaked it cleaned it soak it over & over cleaning and got it clean after a few days.
Then made the little centering tool put it all back together with no leaks from the flat face O-rings the are on each end of the piston rod.
Some guys have it easier to pull a part, I replaced all the hard lines at that time and figured it was time to figure out how to re-set it..
Orich
Then made the little centering tool put it all back together with no leaks from the flat face O-rings the are on each end of the piston rod.
Some guys have it easier to pull a part, I replaced all the hard lines at that time and figured it was time to figure out how to re-set it..
Orich
I'm just mad I never got the fittings with nozzles and a hose to bleed the MC, I got the blue tops that you have to sit there and press on the piston till it's firm. Which never worked right.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
I never have a vise handy to bench bleed a M/C ,I just mount it and put the lines on a couple threads and fill the master put on the cap and very slowly work the pedal short strokes until I see no more bubbles of air coming out the threaded line nuts an done if the lines are full just doing the M/C.
If your doing a full bleed out slowly work the pedal to built up some pedal make sure brakes shoes are adjusted up.
Well you know the rest so, I won't go back into it..
Orich
If your doing a full bleed out slowly work the pedal to built up some pedal make sure brakes shoes are adjusted up.
Well you know the rest so, I won't go back into it..
Orich
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 445
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From: Bismarck, ND
I never have a vise handy to bench bleed a M/C ,I just mount it and put the lines on a couple threads and fill the master put on the cap and very slowly work the pedal short strokes until I see no more bubbles of air coming out the threaded line nuts an done if the lines are full just doing the M/C.
If your doing a full bleed out slowly work the pedal to built up some pedal make sure brakes shoes are adjusted up.
Well you know the rest so, I won't go back into it..
Orich
If your doing a full bleed out slowly work the pedal to built up some pedal make sure brakes shoes are adjusted up.
Well you know the rest so, I won't go back into it..
Orich
I adjusted the front two drums a bit and while they're still not probably as far as they should be, the brake pedal improved a bit but the rear right drum seemed to be adjusted out all the way and had little resistance while the left had plenty.
But my question is when I engage the E-Brake the pedal significantly gets harder and moves up higher when pedal is pushed, so could low rear brake pads really be my issue? It doesn't make sense as the rears only do about 20%
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
Jack the truck up (observing sensible safety precautions) and run the brake shoes up until you can no longer turn the wheel/tire by hand. Back the adjuster off 10 clicks. When you've done all four wheels (if you have drums all the way around), check your brake pedal again and see how it reacts.
Don't have the parking brake on when you're doing this.
Don't have the parking brake on when you're doing this.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2015
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From: Bismarck, ND
Jack the truck up (observing sensible safety precautions) and run the brake shoes up until you can no longer turn the wheel/tire by hand. Back the adjuster off 10 clicks. When you've done all four wheels (if you have drums all the way around), check your brake pedal again and see how it reacts.
Don't have the parking brake on when you're doing this.
Don't have the parking brake on when you're doing this.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
That's is what I had done with all 4, like I said, the RR I kept turning and turning and resistance didn't go up at all. And after I put all wheels back onto the truck and when ebrake is on, and I press the pedal, it's significantly higher when brakes engage then when it's off. So that leads to an adjustment issue, and since my RR is giving me trouble, I'm looking at my rear drums being my entire issue?
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2015
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From: Bismarck, ND
If the resistance of the right rear brakes didn't increase when you were running the adjuster (star) wheel up, either the star wheel is installed backwards, popped out of place or something else has come loose inside the drum. Time to pull the drum and put an eye on the situation to see what's going on in there.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
As long as the drums will not adjust out properly, you'll never get a firm, high pedal.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2015
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From: Bismarck, ND
As weird as it sounds, that's reassuring to hear. I just want an end to all this bull honkey
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Don't over think your brake problems.
Rears & front shoes need to be adjusted the same amount, not where you've got three adjusted one that's goofed up.
These rears shoe assembly can easily get put together wrong by over looking one little things.
And many guys who don't buy a truck manual fall into this group of screwing up more so then a guy who has a truck manual.
Like, I said if not careful and double check looking over the whole assembled brake shoes before placing the drums on..
Plus the need to repacking the wheel bearing before lube the seals lips so ya don't burn them causing them to seal and soak the shoes with oil.
Orick
Rears & front shoes need to be adjusted the same amount, not where you've got three adjusted one that's goofed up.
These rears shoe assembly can easily get put together wrong by over looking one little things.
And many guys who don't buy a truck manual fall into this group of screwing up more so then a guy who has a truck manual.
Like, I said if not careful and double check looking over the whole assembled brake shoes before placing the drums on..
Plus the need to repacking the wheel bearing before lube the seals lips so ya don't burn them causing them to seal and soak the shoes with oil.
Orick
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2015
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From: Bismarck, ND
What manual works with my '70 since they don't seem to have a "official" one for this year? And man, pulling the entire axle shaft to take off the drum is just... wow. Gotta wait for payday tomorrow to purchase new rear drums/hardware