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I replaced my old leaking master cylinder with a new one, but I'm having a catastrophic issue. There is air leaking into my system somewhere and it's making my brakes non existent. I've went through an entire bottle of brake fluid constantly bleeding all 4 drums and the pedal still sinks to the floor. For the most part I had no air bubbles come out the bleeder in all 4 cylinders but yet I have NO brakes. The piston inside the M/C is definitely working and it's pumping fluid through the hoses.
Keep in mind my wheel cylinders are about 2 weeks old so them leaking isn't a problem
Does your truck have a brake booster and what all brake components have been replaced?
Did you bench bleed the MC before installing it?
Are all 4 drum brake shoes adjusted out?
Is the brake warning light on the dash hooked up and is it lit up with the key on or, does the warning light remain off?
Never assume because something is new out of the box that it can't be defective --most all replacements parts these days come from China ...'nuff said. Verify by visual observation that none of the wheel cylinders, MC, flexible brake hose connections or hard line connections have any leaks.
Manual brakes, got the new push rod and gasket and I bench bled it. And the brake light is on too. I'm believe that there's just a **** ton of air in the M/C as I've gotten quite a bit more braking power but no where near what it was yet
It was on before. Never had any braking issue before or after the light came on though.
The fact that the brake warning light came on is an indication that you did have a brake problem --a drop in pressure in one of the brake circuits --either the front circuit or the rear circuit.
The warning light (at least initially) came on as a result of an imbalance in brake pressures. One side was higher in pressure than the other. The spool shifted to the lower pressure side and turned the warning light on to tell you there's a problem.
Internal workings of the brake pressure differential valve and how it turns on the brake warning light.
If the MC is leaking internally it won't build sufficient pressure to work properly. If you've bled it enough to get all the air out but the pressure still isn't adequate suspect the MC.
Many young guys don't really know how to bleed the brake system.
So hopefully your doing it correctly, and with that being said. Also hopefully you bought all the brake cylinders at your loco parts store for ez return. And not online where you'll have to wait weeks for a slow replacement parts.
Pushing to hard on the pedal with a cylinder open will cause the warning light to trip an come on. A very slow self gravitate flow can be done with out tripping the switch but takes time, but when your working alone this can be done. Or buy a hand vacuum bleeder tool.
Thiers a little tool to keep the warning light from being actuated that keep that keeps the piston from moving in the P/Valve while bleeding. You can buy one or make one.
I got off the phone with my father's friend who owned one of these and he said, and I'm sure you guys agree, that brand new MCs (my bleeder caps didn't have a nozzle) hold a ton of air. So I bought some more brake fluid and I'll work on it more in a jiffy
Nope. The brakes with engine off (manual brakes) stay stiff and won't really go past 4 inches off the ground but as soon as I get moving the pedal dumps to the ground
Nope. The brakes with engine off (manual brakes) stay stiff and won't really go past 4 inches off the ground but as soon as I get moving the pedal dumps to the ground
Wow are you loosing any B fluid from the M/C???
If not I replace the Mc
Wow are you loosing any B fluid from the M/C???
If not I replace the Mc
Orich
Put my old MC back on just to check and same ordeal, it's going to the floor! So I'm at a loss at what's going on. And since this thread is active. PO on my truck had the truck about 30° advanced
May be you better pull the drums off and recheck everything is the way it's suppose to be
So what ever it is it's below your m/c Did you clean out the P/Valve if not get it re set.
You may have to pull the wheel cylinders a part and check everything is correct in them
Orich
May be you better pull the drums off and recheck everything is the way it's suppose to be
So what ever it is it's below your m/c Did you clean out the P/Valve if not get it re set.
You may have to pull the wheel cylinders a part and check everything is correct in them
Orich
How does one clean out that valve? And my wheel cylinders are about 3 weeks on at the front so they're good. There's also no leaking anywhere so my issue is that there's air somewhere and it just won't stop!
How does one clean out that valve? And my wheel cylinders are about 3 weeks on at the front so they're good. There's also no leaking anywhere so my issue is that there's air somewhere and it just won't stop!
New don't mean their good or assembled right, a piston could be in backwards.
Look at all brake hardware to insure it's all together correctly.
EZ for something to slip out of place and not see it.
I've worked in a brake shop back in the 60's and its ez to not notice at times.
Remove the P/valve only one end coms apart, I used the brake system to force out the piston, there's is a site to get a few new parts for those you'll have to get that from Steve as he has that info.
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