When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Headed out for another quick drive today to see what would break... Turns out we made it back in one piece!
The steering doesn't seem to center correctly, and it seems the rear of the valve cover is not sealing well - but other than that - we're in good shape!
Good for you! I hope your nieghbors in the Radnor and King of Prussia area appreciate your cool 55. I see you bed (or cab) sits crooked like mine did. Since I got it painted with a new bed and new rear cab mounts I think I fixed it or at least improved it. Here is a pic from a few years ago.
Also, remember some of that stuff is general Maintenance stuff you'd be buying formyojr daily driver....
ditto this. Unless you buy new and sell three years later without replacing tires or doing an oil change you will be spending this kind of money no matter what you drive .Really enjoying your build thread. Keep it up.
Made some tailgate chains from stainless linked chain and 3/16" mild steel
Stiched up some chain covers from some old canvas
Replaced all the bulbs in the instrument cluster
Cleaned-up the cluster including paint on the needles
Got the speedometer working!
A couple snags I ran into:
First, I couldn't get some of the instrument bulbs working a first. I finally figured out they weren't getting good connectivity to the ground, and then FINALLY figured out they get their ground from the cluster housing itself. (So you can't test them w/o the cluster in place!) Duh...
Second, I spent quite a bit of time troubleshooting the speedometer. The cable seemed to be rotating nicely, and once I got the cluster apart, I could manually spin the back of the speedo to get it to respond. I put it all back together, and again it didn't work. Turns out the speedo needle itself was hanging up on the bezel of the oil gauge. I pushed the needle ever so slightly back toward the gauge to bend it away from the edge of the oil bezel, and finally, we're back in action.
Still not getting a clear response from the gas gauge, even after cleaning up the ground on the frame back at the sender. (And before I installed the sender, I tested the ohms, and it seemed to be reading properly.)
It's pegged most of the time once the key is on, occasionally jumping down toward half a tank. That's a problem for another day...
Your tailgate chains look great. but they are on backwards. The surface you see facing you should face towards the tail gate. See that little hole a small rubber grommet goes int here and pushes against the tail gate. If everything is correct the chain closure really pulls the bed sides in tight when you clamp it.
Your tailgate chains look great. but they are on backwards. The surface you see facing you should face towards the tail gate. See that little hole a small rubber grommet goes int here and pushes against the tail gate. If everything is correct the chain closure really pulls the bed sides in tight when you clamp it.
Haha. You're kidding. You know how many times I trimmed and adjusted that metal ring before welding it closed! Serves me right for not finding a reference picture for comparison. Oh well - back on the to-do list.
Your tailgate chains look great. but they are on backwards.
Nice eye Abe! You say "small things" Bill but for us beginners it is all big It's all looking good. Just curious if your wife was following you "just in case". I always make sure my wife has her cell phone on when I go out for an adventure Keep up the good work. Dave
Haha. You're kidding. You know how many times I trimmed and adjusted that metal ring before welding it closed! Serves me right for not finding a reference picture for comparison. Oh well - back on the to-do list.
Thanks Abe
No need to cutnand reweld. Just undo the nut on the bolt and put it back in upside down, if you know what I mean. When I put mine on after the repaint this spring I had to think about it several times before I got it right.
No need to cutnand reweld. Just undo the nut on the bolt and put it back in upside down, if you know what I mean. When I put mine on after the repaint this spring I had to think about it several times before I got it right.
Those look to be welded on by the PO. I'll either go about cutting that nut off, or I'll just cut the chain, flip it, and re-weld. A 15 min fix, just a head-smacker for me.
Originally Posted by df85732
Nice eye Abe! You say "small things" Bill but for us beginners it is all big It's all looking good. Just curious if your wife was following you "just in case". I always make sure my wife has her cell phone on when I go out for an adventure Keep up the good work. Dave
Oh yea, that's exactly what's happening. Wife in the chase vehicle with the cell phone ready!!
I foolishly messed up the wheel studs on the driver's front, so I replaced the studs and added new lug nuts all around. Also, my steering still felt sloppy, so I went after that this weekend:
New wheel studs on driver's front
New lug nuts all around
New tie rod ends
Rebuilt drag link
Once the new tie rods ends were in place and the drag link was rebuilt, I finally adjust the screw on the steering box 1.5 more turns than how I rec'd it from CPP. That seemed to clear it up. Finally my steering doesn't feel dangerous!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
It's all looking good. Just curious if your wife was following you "just in case". I always make sure my wife has her cell phone on when I go out for an adventure
Keep up the good work. Dave
