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Great job, man.
It took me almost five years to accomplish what you've done.
Thanks a lot!
My father in-law is visiting from IL this week, and he can't wait to see the truck and help with something. Maybe we'll re-wire the dome light and hook up the new tail lights...
After more research, I decided the best option was a new steering box from CPP. Got that installed this weekend as well as started going after the driver's door.
The steering still has more play than I'd expect with a brand new box, so I want to take a closer look at the pitman arm, etc.
What did the new steering box cost you if I can ask?
I am sure you know the play in your steering can be adjusted with the screw on the side of the gear box. But I would check all your steering components also.
What did the new steering box cost you if I can ask?
I am sure you know the play in your steering can be adjusted with the screw on the side of the gear box. But I would check all your steering components also.
Hi Abe -
The rebuilt boxes are $450, but you get $100 back for sending in your core. Rebuild KITS were like $260 if I remember correctly. When I read their instructions for the rebuild, the ~$90 difference (after sending in the old core) seemed more than fair, so I just went with the rebuilt box.
One thing I noticed, they pack their boxes with grease before sending (as opposed to 90 weight oil specified in the manual). I'm sure it's fine, but was a surprise for me.
The swap was pretty straightforward - especially after I figured out the right position for the shift linkages.
I'm reluctant the adjust the box further. I assume CPP adjusted before they sent it out, and I think that adjustment nut on the side just aligns the sector shaft gear; I don't think it helps eliminate "slack" in the steering.
After I replaced my a long time ago it still has slack while sitting, but not near as much and also the slack was not as noticeable if it was moving just a little bit and tires inflated correctly. Also not near as much jerking if you hit a hole in the road.
How loose is loose? How far can you move the wheel before you feel contact? Keep in mind your using a huge steering wheel so movement will be more than with your 13" car steering wheel.
Not meaning to aggravate you but did you check the other parts of the steering .i.e draglink ends & tierod ends? Those all can compound looseness. Also IF Memory Serves Me Right when replacing the box I believe they recommend a heavy duty tie rod and ends. The old ones should me pretty weak by now and often the were bent and straightened several times.
If you still have excessive looseness I think a call to the manufacturer is warranted.
How loose is loose? How far can you move the wheel before you feel contact? Keep in mind your using a huge steering wheel so movement will be more than with your 13" car steering wheel.
Not meaning to aggravate you but did you check the other parts of the steering .i.e draglink ends & tierod ends? Those all can compound looseness. Also IF Memory Serves Me Right when replacing the box I believe they recommend a heavy duty tie rod and ends. The old ones should me pretty weak by now and often the were bent and straightened several times.
If you still have excessive looseness I think a call to the manufacturer is warranted.
Hey BJ - thanks for the reply; hope all is well with you.
You're certainly never aggravating me, I'm happy for all the help.
To be honest, I didn't get to spend much time looking at it before running out of weekend time. I am going to take a closer look this coming weekend, but the reason I didn't initially suspect the tie rod ends or draglink, is that for the few inches of play I'm feeling in the wheel, I'm not getting any movement in the pitman arm. Potentially some attention to the box's adjustment screw is warranted... I really need to take a closer look before saying anything definitive... Will keep you all posted!
I got the driver's door totally rebuilt including new glass, rollers, etc. in addition to the patch panels.
With that, I told the wife I needed to take it for a drive to see what else was broken. Sure enough, 1 mile later, the clutch seemed to fail.
I got it into the driveway stuck in first gear and killed the engine once in the driveway.
It seems like the clutch pedal return spring is still in place, and the adjustment on the threaded rod didn't seem to move. But the clutch now goes to the floor with almost no pressure and it's definitely not engaging.
After removing the inspection cover and the dust cover to look into my clutch issue, I found a very compact and very full mouse nest in my bell housing. (So that's where my old seat cushion went!) I cleaned that all out, and was pulling my hair out trying to figure out what happened to my clutch - and then it finally hit me. I lost the bolt that goes into the end of the clutch pedal (the one that creates a firm attachment to the shaft it's on and therefore the rest of the linkage). When the bolt came out, the clutch pedal rotated on the shaft, and the clutch fell to the floor - but the release bearing was still 1/2" away from the fingers. What a dumb fix.
I took the opportunity of having everything apart to paint the transmission floor cover as well as the dust cover.
I also added in new heater hoses and the little side mirrors I picked up from LMC.
The hood lip patch panel I ordered is still on backorder, so the holes in the hood remain!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
