Help distributor rotor
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 568
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From: Asturias (España)
good, and I made the switch, I installed the new distributor, install it as it came without making any changes, with an initial advance of 11 and ....... works great, it looks like another very happy engine, goes well both low and high rpm
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 568
Likes: 0
From: Asturias (España)
I do not quite understand some expressions yours and why not sometimes they mean. but hey I'm fixing it. You can change the springs without removing the engine distributor?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
It's just a whole lot more graceful to remove the distributor completely, before performing "open distributor surgery". It has to be disassembled fairly completely in order to access the inside. This is tedious and may need to be done more than once. It is worth doing, however.
There are several websites and magazines that discuss "curving" a Ford distributor. I provided a couple links. The important thing would be finding a good translation out of the native English. You do use a translation like Babelfish, no??
Determine the total mechanical advance, and when it stops advancing RPM wise. Y blocks like lots of ignition advance compared to stock. Most V8s perform well with around 36 to 38 degrees of advance, "all in" before 3000 RPM. Once vacuum advance is included on top of that, the engine may be operating around 50 degrees BTDC (or more) cruising down the highway at 100 km per hour. This is best for performance, pollution control and fuel economy.
There are several websites and magazines that discuss "curving" a Ford distributor. I provided a couple links. The important thing would be finding a good translation out of the native English. You do use a translation like Babelfish, no??
Determine the total mechanical advance, and when it stops advancing RPM wise. Y blocks like lots of ignition advance compared to stock. Most V8s perform well with around 36 to 38 degrees of advance, "all in" before 3000 RPM. Once vacuum advance is included on top of that, the engine may be operating around 50 degrees BTDC (or more) cruising down the highway at 100 km per hour. This is best for performance, pollution control and fuel economy.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 568
Likes: 0
From: Asturias (España)
It's just a whole lot more graceful to remove the distributor completely, before performing "open distributor surgery". It has to be disassembled fairly completely in order to access the inside. This is tedious and may need to be done more than once. It is worth doing, however.
There are several websites and magazines that discuss "curving" a Ford distributor. I provided a couple links. The important thing would be finding a good translation out of the native English. You do use a translation like Babelfish, no??
Determine the total mechanical advance, and when it stops advancing RPM wise. Y blocks like lots of ignition advance compared to stock. Most V8s perform well with around 36 to 38 degrees of advance, "all in" before 3000 RPM. Once vacuum advance is included on top of that, the engine may be operating around 50 degrees BTDC (or more) cruising down the highway at 100 km per hour. This is best for performance, pollution control and fuel economy.
There are several websites and magazines that discuss "curving" a Ford distributor. I provided a couple links. The important thing would be finding a good translation out of the native English. You do use a translation like Babelfish, no??
Determine the total mechanical advance, and when it stops advancing RPM wise. Y blocks like lots of ignition advance compared to stock. Most V8s perform well with around 36 to 38 degrees of advance, "all in" before 3000 RPM. Once vacuum advance is included on top of that, the engine may be operating around 50 degrees BTDC (or more) cruising down the highway at 100 km per hour. This is best for performance, pollution control and fuel economy.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,389
Likes: 58
Here is a link to instructions, with lots of pictures, but for a duraspark distributor. The process will be similar.
Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index
And here is another for a Motorcraft points distributor. Again, not the same but similar.
http://www.squarebirds.org/simplycon...istributor.htm
Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index
And here is another for a Motorcraft points distributor. Again, not the same but similar.
http://www.squarebirds.org/simplycon...istributor.htm
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 568
Likes: 0
From: Asturias (España)
Here is a link to instructions, with lots of pictures, but for a duraspark distributor. The process will be similar.
Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index
And here is another for a Motorcraft points distributor. Again, not the same but similar.
FE Distributor Timing
Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index
And here is another for a Motorcraft points distributor. Again, not the same but similar.
FE Distributor Timing
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Using 10L reluctor slot is good. My opinion is, notice there is still yet remaining a heavy spring installed. This one should he removed and one from the 925D kit replace it. Or maybe even replace both from the kit. It requires a bit of experimentation to determine what works best for your particular application.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 568
Likes: 0
From: Asturias (España)
Using 10L reluctor slot is good. My opinion is, notice there is still yet remaining a heavy spring installed. This one should he removed and one from the 925D kit replace it. Or maybe even replace both from the kit. It requires a bit of experimentation to determine what works best for your particular application.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
OK. This means a 10L slot selected, (since distributor degrees are only half of crankshaft degrees) you will have 20 degrees mechanical timing. Plus, whatever initial timing you add in. This gives plenty of "room" to play with.
Disconnect and plug vacuum advance. Being very careful to stay out of the plane of the radiator fan, run the engine in neutral up through various RPM - and observe with a timing light on the damper balancer. Adjust distributor to say, 34 or 36 degrees at "all in", when there are no more advancement to be given by the springs. Wherever the initial timing falls is OK, maybe 12, maybe 14. Typically.
Then test drive and test for acceleration and pinging. Should be very close to optimum. When satisfied, then and only then reconnect vacuum advance and adjust this for best cruise with no ping. Hope this helps.
Disconnect and plug vacuum advance. Being very careful to stay out of the plane of the radiator fan, run the engine in neutral up through various RPM - and observe with a timing light on the damper balancer. Adjust distributor to say, 34 or 36 degrees at "all in", when there are no more advancement to be given by the springs. Wherever the initial timing falls is OK, maybe 12, maybe 14. Typically.
Then test drive and test for acceleration and pinging. Should be very close to optimum. When satisfied, then and only then reconnect vacuum advance and adjust this for best cruise with no ping. Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 568
Likes: 0
From: Asturias (España)
OK. This means a 10L slot selected, (since distributor degrees are only half of crankshaft degrees) you will have 20 degrees mechanical timing. Plus, whatever initial timing you add in. This gives plenty of "room" to play with.
Disconnect and plug vacuum advance. Being very careful to stay out of the plane of the radiator fan, run the engine in neutral up through various RPM - and observe with a timing light on the damper balancer. Adjust distributor to say, 34 or 36 degrees at "all in", when there are no more advancement to be given by the springs. Wherever the initial timing falls is OK, maybe 12, maybe 14. Typically.
Then test drive and test for acceleration and pinging. Should be very close to optimum. When satisfied, then and only then reconnect vacuum advance and adjust this for best cruise with no ping. Hope this helps.
Disconnect and plug vacuum advance. Being very careful to stay out of the plane of the radiator fan, run the engine in neutral up through various RPM - and observe with a timing light on the damper balancer. Adjust distributor to say, 34 or 36 degrees at "all in", when there are no more advancement to be given by the springs. Wherever the initial timing falls is OK, maybe 12, maybe 14. Typically.
Then test drive and test for acceleration and pinging. Should be very close to optimum. When satisfied, then and only then reconnect vacuum advance and adjust this for best cruise with no ping. Hope this helps.
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