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Limit the mechanical advance to 20 degrees or so using the 10L slot, initial timing 12 or 14 degrees or whatever is necessary. Install the lightweight springs in your distributor.
Goal is 34 to 36 degrees total timing before 3000 RPM. This will be MUCH better behaved and is optimal for both performance and economy. Then, reconnect vacuum advance hose and test drive, apply as much vacuum advance as the engine will stand at steady highway speeds without ping or predetonation. Modern distributors have adjustable vacuum advance cans using 3/32nds or 2.5mm Allen wrench.
Limit the mechanical advance to 20 degrees or so using the 10L slot, initial timing 12 or 14 degrees or whatever is necessary. Install the lightweight springs in your distributor.
Goal is 34 to 36 degrees total timing before 3000 RPM. This will be MUCH better behaved and is optimal for both performance and economy. Then, reconnect vacuum advance hose and test drive, apply as much vacuum advance as the engine will stand at steady highway speeds without ping or predetonation. Modern distributors have adjustable vacuum advance cans using 3/32nds or 2.5mm Allen wrench.
Thanks for the feedback. I understand that these tips are for the new distributor. do not ? where you can get light springs comments? I live in Spain and all that is needed I have to buy in your country. I am now running with the distributor of 1956 can not connect the vacuum advance, because if I do work very badly, but without either seriously wrong when he pressed the accelerator
DO NOT worry about spring change now. Just buy the correct distributor and get it running.
True, but it's easier to work on a distributor before installation. He will want some familiarity with the components beforehand for best results and to save aggravation.
Cardone 30-2808 is the distributor. But, inside, it might have several different possibilities with respect to the reluctor 10L or 13L or 18L that is installed. A 10L would probably be preferable, and ditch the heavy springs?
True, but it's easier to work on a distributor before installation. He will want some familiarity with the components beforehand for best results and to save aggravation.
Cardone 30-2808 is the distributor. But, inside, it might have several different possibilities with respect to the reluctor 10L or 13L or 18L that is installed. A 10L would probably be preferable, and ditch the heavy springs?
Mr. Gasket 925D spring kit. About $10
Right now he just needs to get it up and running. Sorry but what is good for your Y may not be good for his, there are too many variables. Until he has a base line to start with there is no reason to start changing things.
thank you both for your opinions, I still have not bought the dealer, but I'm looking at the best option, I do not really understand the functioning of these engines, but I'll do what you creean it's best if I have to change the springs I'll do if I can get
Keep in mind replacement condensers today are almost all defective, or it seems that way anyway. Be sure to use a known good condenser before trying to start engine. Just because it is new is no guarantee and in fact may be the opposite.
You can buy an electronic conversion for that one, too.
You can get it running with the points. Sometimes wiring is changed in order to install an electronic ignition so if you plan leave the points installed, you must have it wired correctly for the points before you take it out to drive.
Thanks to all for the comments, I have the capacitor that had the old distributor and it was working.
I have an electronic ignition installed on the old distributor, with very little use, the question is put on the back or leave the moment like this and if at any time change does not work.
I will read the links to learn from them:-beber
I don't think the electronic conversion will fit the new distributor. It looks like a Pertronix unit and they have one part number for 1954-1956 and another part number for 1957 - 1974
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