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I have been quite busy lately but not on the truck. Finally got all the cab mounts in and started chasing the oil leak as mentioned. The guy who sold it will pay to fix the issue. I just got to find it. Needed to order an adaptor for the compression tester then to pull the head for a rebuild or new rings. I'm leaning towards valve stem seals my self. I decided where to locate the fuel filter. It will go on the frame beside the trans. Now just to make a bracket for it. I may grab pics tomorrow.
Well I got rust and gunk. Pulled the valve cover n all injectors. Any input on how to make it right will be welcome. I'm thinking head gasket maybe. Do these have liner issues?
Rust on the lines. One is clean Crud from lack of oil changes Water in valve train Injector Carbonized oil on other injectors
Ick....that's pretty bad. From the looks of it, that engine hasn't been run for years...and the water has been in there the whole time. I'm coming to this conclusion by the look of the rusted and dry rockers, as well as the rusty water that has penetrated the sludge.
Water under valve cover: oil cooler or head gasket. Pressurize the cooling system and/or remove oil cooler to check. Might want to just replace the head gasket anyway, that thing obviously has some age. Good time to port head.
Injectors: replace, they're trash. Good time to upgrade to some larger injectors.
Injection lines: if they're corroded on the inside, or the flares, replace. Looks to me like there was water in the fuel system. Junkyard replacements are fine, as long as they too don't have water in them.
Ya I was thinking water in the fuel at some point too. I tried turning it over and could not by hand will hook up the same setup for the starter to turn it over tomorrow.
What injectors are good? I heard dt466 injectors are the way to go. I'm gonna look into having it ported. Or do it myself. Will a turned up stock pump work? If that ain't all rusted too. Gotta look into that a bit.
Called industrial injection. They want 1500-3000 to rebuild the pump depending what is needed but a p pump is 1300 or up. Just need to find that p pump adaptor someone makes.
The dt466 inIectors are certainly the "best cheapest" option, because they are abundant and provide a solid increase in fueling. I'm not sure how much more they offer, but it's not as much as some reputable aftermarket "100+hp" Injectors. So, choose which you get depending on what you ultimately want and how much you want to spend.
It's not uncommon to see the sludge buildup you described...the crank case is turbulent and pressurized, so sludge doesn't have a chance to settle to anything and the constantly moving oil mist (and piston jets) cleans parts. The top end, not so much....it's where everything finds a resting place.
I'd at least pull the plungers out of the pump, any corrosion or bore wear should be addressed. There are some cheap go fast mods you can do to your pump, but it won't be a p pump unless....well....you get a p pump.
Well things still seem locked up. I can turn it about 10 teeth of the flywheel before I hit a wall and it's really hard. I'm wondering if some of this water could have got down and seized a lifter. I pulled the rocket shafts to get more movement. That's when I had 10 teeth of movement on the flywheel.
Start by looking down the tops of the valve stems to see if one was stuck open. With the look of the tickets, I wouldn't be surprised if one or more valves were stuck in the guide.
All the springs are up but that's a good idea. Or just pull the head and try to turn again. I know the bottom end is good but the can I have not seen yet.
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