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I get what your saying, but my decision is being driven by budget, and the fact that beyond the HPOP I won't be modding the engine anymore for a long time, if ever. I can get Jody to burn new tunes onto my BD tuner for $250, Hydra is going to be much more to get the same switch ability as what I have now.
Is the MB Diesel HPOP better than the T500? They're the same price, what makes one better than the other?
hate to say this but $250 more you can have the hydra, and all the free tunes plus (iirc) free reburns for life…just a thought and I believe it has that switch on the fly thing too
There is no IPR data, but I don't need it to know it skyrocketed on the hot tune. The ICP was looking for a crawl space to see if it could go any lower at WOT, the exhaust back pressure maxed out, but the boost never made it across the 12 PSI mark. Your FIPW in the hot tune absolutely murdered your ICP... 1200 PSI isn't fit to climb a casual grade when empty - let alone wow the seat of your pants at WOT. I can easily exceed 1200 PSI ICP with cruise control set to 65 MPH on the flat against the wind. I saw a feeble "Stinky Spike" at time stamp 07:18:29 on the 100 HP log, but that is about as high as the pressure you get at sustained WOT in stock tune. I strongly suspect injector O-rings, or a typo in the PID programming.
The HP numbers make no difference at idle - a selected tune is just not as dialed-in when the idle is rough.
hmm...I need to look at the PIDs. I watched my analog boost and EGT gauges and they do not align with what is shown in that table. I saw max boost his 28psi and EGT never went above 1200. I'll add IPR to the log, not sure how I missed that one.
hate to say this but $250 more you can have the hydra, and all the free tunes plus (iirc) free reburns for life…just a thought and I believe it has that switch on the fly thing too
From what I saw it's $250 more for the base package Hydra, and an additional couple hundred to get the switch on the fly capability. It's still an option at this point, but I need to confirm all my non-tuning issues are resolved first.
Several, including Boost had the wrong formulas. I've updated all listed PIDs to reflect what is in that thread, and added IPR to the datalog.
I'll be logging stock and hot tunes again this week and post up the updated CSV files. I'm hoping that is where the issue lies. I'm also doing the Cody test this afternoon, so that will eliminate HPO leaks. I'm pretty confident that isn't an issue since all the injector orings and cups are new, and the truck has no starting issues.
I did the GPR LED mod yesterday which showed me my GPR is bad. It clicks, but doesn't send 12v to the plugs (or the LED) confirmed with a DMM. If I cycle the key a bunch occasionally it will work, must be something internal in the relay. It's a lifetime warranty from Autozone so I'll replace it when I do the Cody test, but this will be the third one in three years so I'll probably look into the Stancer GPR upgrade once I get these other issues resolved.
Thanks to everyone for all the help so far, I wish I could spread more reps but currently I'm maxed on everyone in this thread, lol.
I updated all the PID formulas to match the thread I linked above but I'm still not getting accurate boost readings, which is odd because before I had to format my phone it was working fine. When logging I'm seeing boost max out at around 15-18psi on the analog gauge. I've attached screen shots of the PIDs, maybe someone can see what I'm obviously missing...
I also performed the Cody HPO leakdown yesterday and it passed without a hiccup. Held 150psi for 5 min each side no problem.
So I'm starting to think my HPOP is getting weak, if I understand what these readings are telling us?
Here is a log of the 100HP tune on my drive in to work today. Still haven't figured out why the boost formula isn't working, but analog gauge showed max boost hitting 28 psi like normal.
ICP maxes out at 2500 briefly, but looks to average less than 1000 through most of the log, and I obviously have other PID issues because speed is on Km/hr and varies wildly, and mass fuel drops to 0 in numerous cells....
I'm lost at this point, hoping someone can chime in and make some sense of whats going on here. I think this still is either a tuning or HPOP issue, just not sure which one.
Here is a log of the 100HP tune on my drive in to work today. Still haven't figured out why the boost formula isn't working, but analog gauge showed max boost hitting 28 psi like normal.
ICP maxes out at 2500 briefly, but looks to average less than 1000 through most of the log, and I obviously have other PID issues because speed is on Km/hr and varies wildly, and mass fuel drops to 0 in numerous cells....
I'm lost at this point, hoping someone can chime in and make some sense of whats going on here. I think this still is either a tuning or HPOP issue, just not sure which one.
have you done a stock log test with out the chip installed?
Hot tune, long FIPW, old news. There is 60-65 HP in reserve from a stock tune unless you change the injectors. 80 HP is hot. 100 HP is hot. 140 HP is hot.
Torque Converter Slip isn't on that list - max 1000.
Hi Rich, not sure what your saying here? These are the parameters you want to see in my logs, and I should use the min/max values shown instead of what is listed in the PID thread?
TP has reference to Barometer as "BARO()". Tugly has it right. Edit as follows to fix:
Long name:Barometer
Short name: BARO
PID: 221442
Max/Min: 15.0/10.0
Unit: PSI
Equation: ((A*256)+B)*0.03625
Header: C410F1
The Min/Max values above are for realistic altitudes, but those who traverse the Rockies may see lees than 10 PSI (over 10,000 feet). If you do, you can change the Max/Min to 15.0/9.0.
Boost
(AKA Manifold Gauge Pressure)
Short Name: Boost
PID: 221440
Units: PSI
Max/Min: 30.0/0.0 (stock) 40.0/0.0 (performance)
Equation: (((A*256)+B)*0.03625)-[221442]
"-[221442]" subtracts the Barometric sensor (located on the PCM on some trucks, external on others) reading from the MAP reading - and this gives you just the boost pressure above atmospheric pressure.
As always -
Critical Note: Please read this first!
Never ever add a gauge while connected with the engine running... no matter how the PID came to you. The data can have an error or a typo in it, so it's best to set up your gauge off-line, then connect to the truck KOEO after everything is set correctly (to the best of your knowledge), then click "test" in the custom PID configuration menu. No data or the truck freaks out? Well... don't put that on your gauge page for sure - until you get a successful test.
One of the most common problems is the omission of the above step, so it's not one of those mattress tag warning labels. Probably the most common cause for vehicles to freak out when adding a gauge is typos. The PID address has to match the PID long name. Change one from the other, misspell the PID long name, or alter the spaces in the name - and the vehicle dash freaks out... signalling you an S.O.S. with the warning lights.
For some reason I had to create the BARO PID from scratch, I think it's working correctly. So far these are the best results I've gotten. I need to try the other trans temp PIDs to see if any of them work, but at least I'm getting realistic values on the rest of the gauges. I noticed the TP Boost gauge and my analog gauge are within 1-2psi so that's good.
