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Can someone post a screen shot of their FIPW PID in the editor so I can compare to what I have? Even with the updated thread I'm getting invalid equation with ((A*256)+B)*.008.
ok, progress! I found the FIPW PID, for some reason it's listed as InjPW in the ford PIDs. I think I have everything setup on a dashboard that you are asking to see. Do you want WOT runs to 60mph from a dig? What kind of pulls are you looking for logging on?
The sweet spot is a little idle and a roll into WOT up a steep grade until you reach highway speeds. You usually won't hit 4th gear until you sneak up on 80 MPH - but that's not needed.
Just updating, I'm waiting to fix the pedestal o-rings and do some work under the valve covers before doing any testing. I don't want those o-rings to fail and cause me more problems. I'll post back once the weather permits me to complete this work and do some data logging.
ok, time to get this thread rolling again. I've just completed R&R on engine including pedestal O-Rings, injector O-Rings, Injector cups, glow plugs, VC gaskets, 50 cent mod, UVCH, and a good general cleaning.
I logged with TP on my way to work today, but the output files don't look right to me. I can only open the .csv format in excel so I can't actually see whats in the .kml output.
I took a few screen shots too. First one is KOEO, second is cold idle, and third is warm idle.
I noticed oil temp isn't reading...should it be or do I need an aftermarket sensor for that?
Anything else I should add to the dashboard?
I noticed half way to work I was still on my hot tune, so should I redo this logging on the stock tune?
Warm idle
Cold idle
KOEO
It won't let me attach the log files, how are people sharing log info?
ok, looks like the .csv attached. I was able to open the other format in Google Earth, but it just shows my path and speed, not sure how that is helpful at all. I'm guessing there is some major user error going on here...
Unfortunately, you have to go into your settings to "program" what you log. I would first tell it to not log anything with GPS - it's just clutter. There are some things you can't prevent logging, but nosing around in the log settings will be pretty intuitive, so you shouldn't need a lot of instruction on it.
ok, tried logging again with the monitored items added and GPS info removed. Interesting the log shows engine oil temp but the gauge in TP doesn't. Some stuff still looks off too, like the MAP reading never showing any boost, though the gauge in TP and my pillar gauge both show the same within ~2 psi.
The engine oil temp settings and log are attached.
The MAP reads more like BARO with a few small hills. The ICP is absolutely dismal. FIPW looks right for a stock tune (assuming the formula is correct), IPR looks right, and the TCLU looks right, but your HPOP is either near dead, or you are losing oil internally. If there are no external oil leaks - you are a prime candidate for a Cody test before considering logging on to Riffraff Diesel for a T500.
This truck is anemic - you should get 2800 PSI max at 40% IPR at those RPMs.
well, the oil pan is leaking pretty bad, would that cause the low reading on the HPOP? It's being replaced in a couple weeks after my vacation. This is the original HPOP with 277k on it, so I wouldn't be shocked if it was getting tired. The injector o_rings are new, as are the cups and GPs. Truck starts like new now, WTS light goes off almost immediately and it fires right over, no extended cranking or smoking.
oh, and this log was on the 100HP tune on this Bully Dog tuner. I'll do a log on stock tune, keep forgetting to tun it down before logging.
This truck is anemic - you should get 2800 PSI max at 40% IPR at those RPMs.
With a late 17* HPOP, sure, but he's got an early 15*. It's gonna be anemic in comparison.
Originally Posted by akorcovelos
well, the oil pan is leaking pretty bad, would that cause the low reading on the HPOP? It's being replaced in a couple weeks after my vacation.
Nope. Oil in pan is regular lube oil, not the high pressure oil firing the injectors. Same oil, different flow path.
Oil pan replacement typically requires removing the engine. The flange for the dip stick is a common leak point. Do _not_ torque on it to try and stop a leak. Here's another place where more diagnostics and research are in order before deciding on a plan of action.
