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I have a late 99 7.3 that developed a knocking noise. I pulled the passenger head and cylinder 5&7 have a spot where it looks like it came in contact with the valve. I'm not some master mechanic but am learning. What would be my next step to find why it hit the valve and to fix the problem? Thanks
I'm new to the diesel world, but in the 2 stroke motorcycle arena we call this 'stretching the rod' or 'the rod got longer'; meaning the rod bearing went bad. More bad things happen if allowed to continue.
I hope more diesel literate folks will chime in...
Sorry but with the oil/carbon on the crown of the piston it is hard to tell. If you wipe off the stuff it will be very visible. A physical contact of any sort will be seen on the valve and in the piston weather you clean them or not. A kiss/mashing will be present. Wipe and look, if you then cant find post a pic.
If I was in your shoes thats what I would do. And pull that hole to verify. Never know you could honestly do a refresh without pulling the block in truck. By pulling pistons up through the top if you have the heads off already. You have the hard part done already.
And I know this is going to blow peoples minds but I was always if in your position. Bore the block in truck LOL. I have a
as you can see I can machine from the surface of the head. Not all places can do that. As long as I plug the oil galleys and pressure wash when done. It is a dream I will do some day
If the picture of the piston is showing the top of the piston, it does not line up with the valves. Look at your head, the valves are on the sides (front and rear) of the piston.
No way would I muck around with the engine in one of these trucks. I've pulled one in under 2hrs and what you can do with it out is sooooooo much better AND easier it is not even worth considering leaving it in the cab... I've seen that video and frankly, that dude is crazy. You have to jack the cab up like he does to get a 7.3 back in a truck with 6spd. It's a PITA and getting the cab bolts out the first time SUCKS!!
As for valve to piston contact, the most likely culprit is coking on the valves or valve stems. We see this on engines that have seen lots of idle time. These engines often eat pushrods and that is what leads to teardown.
Besides, with engine out you can do this:
And this:
This wasn't my first engine pull, but you can see that it's no big deal. I usually go over the radiator support and leave the bumper, header panel and grill - but I had this truck nosed in the garage and didn't have the height to do that because I was under the open garage door...
I would like to clean and paint it. That looks really good! I'm just a little nervous never pulled an engine before. Plus it's got an 8" lift on 37s I think even if I kneel it down it's going to be a PITA.
You are in luck! Scott is doing a killer write-up with great pics and descriptions of everything you need to do and then some. Look for the 'Grinch' thread.
As far as lift and big tires go, unbolt everything then remove tires and set it down as low as possible while letting the engine hoist slide under axle.
You've already worked harder than the engine R&R will be.
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I've seen that video and frankly, that dude is crazy. 
You have to jack the cab up like he does to get a 7.3 back in a truck with 6spd. It's a PITA and getting the cab bolts out the first time SUCKS!!
