Valve piston contact question
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
That's awesome! Il definitely look out for it. A couple more questions.
- should I put the passenger head back on because it has the lift bracket on it?
- what rebuild kit should I use? I've read motorcrafts kit is good.
-As far as heads should I do 910 springs, chromoly push rods and arp studs?
- should I put the passenger head back on because it has the lift bracket on it?
- what rebuild kit should I use? I've read motorcrafts kit is good.
-As far as heads should I do 910 springs, chromoly push rods and arp studs?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,340
Likes: 588
From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
I'll second that. It's more than worth it to have the engine on a stand to pull the pan.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
That's awesome! Il definitely look out for it. A couple more questions.
- should I put the passenger head back on because it has the lift bracket on it?
- what rebuild kit should I use? I've read motorcrafts kit is good.
-As far as heads should I do 910 springs, chromoly push rods and arp studs?
- should I put the passenger head back on because it has the lift bracket on it?
- what rebuild kit should I use? I've read motorcrafts kit is good.
-As far as heads should I do 910 springs, chromoly push rods and arp studs?
The ford kit is the ONLY way to go.
No need for studs, springs and pushrods until you are over 40psi. Basically, you'll need bigger than Stage 1 injectors and an upgraded turbo (+400hp?) before these parts are necessary.
If you plan to do this EVER, then do studs and springs now. That job sucks bad in the truck!!!
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
I've used one of the old head bolts to lift the engine out with head off. Screw lifting that heavy SOB back in there!!!
The ford kit is the ONLY way to go.
No need for studs, springs and pushrods until you are over 40psi. Basically, you'll need bigger than Stage 1 injectors and an upgraded turbo (+400hp?) before these parts are necessary.
If you plan to do this EVER, then do studs and springs now. That job sucks bad in the truck!!!
The ford kit is the ONLY way to go.
No need for studs, springs and pushrods until you are over 40psi. Basically, you'll need bigger than Stage 1 injectors and an upgraded turbo (+400hp?) before these parts are necessary.
If you plan to do this EVER, then do studs and springs now. That job sucks bad in the truck!!!
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Jgilrfr and scottahoe I have been reading both of your threads. They are very informational it's going to help me when I tackle this project. Is there anything I should do while in there that's not included in rebuild kit? I don't have a ton of money but don't want skip on something important while I got the motor out.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 804
Likes: 0
From: Staten Island,hamilton ny
what are your hp/tq goals?are you sticking with 160/100 injectors or going bigger?how is the truck primarily going to be used?
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
I'm looking at your first pic now on the computer (not phone) and I don't see an obvious impact on the piston? Less carbon in the valve area maybe? I guess 5 & 7 looked different from the others??
I've heard these engines make TERRIBLE noises from injector problems. A bent pushrod will make a lot of noise too. There does appear to be a lot of carbon in ringland and at the top of the cylinder. Are they all like that?
Can you clean up the tops of the pistons a little with something like a green scrubbie so we can get a better look at them and snap a couple pics of the head too.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Backing up the bus a bit... you pulled the head... because you heard a knock. Might I suggest you stop pulling heads as the first step - there is rarely a problem in these engines that goes any deeper than a valve cover.
What was the compression before you pulled the head?
I've heard obnoxious knocks from air in fuel, air in oil, damaged injectors, and timing issues. Every time I thought my truck blew up, it turned out to be something I can fix without so much as touching a head bolt.
If you can't find an issue under there, what's the plan?
What was the compression before you pulled the head?
I've heard obnoxious knocks from air in fuel, air in oil, damaged injectors, and timing issues. Every time I thought my truck blew up, it turned out to be something I can fix without so much as touching a head bolt.
If you can't find an issue under there, what's the plan?
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
That is probably getting close to the limits of head bolts and stock valve springs. Many will say anything over 40psi of boost needs an upgrade. I guess if you see more boost than that, it could explain the valve strikes?
I'm looking at your first pic now on the computer (not phone) and I don't see an obvious impact on the piston? Less carbon in the valve area maybe? I guess 5 & 7 looked different from the others??
I've heard these engines make TERRIBLE noises from injector problems. A bent pushrod will make a lot of noise too. There does appear to be a lot of carbon in ringland and at the top of the cylinder. Are they all like that?
Can you clean up the tops of the pistons a little with something like a green scrubbie so we can get a better look at them and snap a couple pics of the head too.
I'm looking at your first pic now on the computer (not phone) and I don't see an obvious impact on the piston? Less carbon in the valve area maybe? I guess 5 & 7 looked different from the others??
I've heard these engines make TERRIBLE noises from injector problems. A bent pushrod will make a lot of noise too. There does appear to be a lot of carbon in ringland and at the top of the cylinder. Are they all like that?
Can you clean up the tops of the pistons a little with something like a green scrubbie so we can get a better look at them and snap a couple pics of the head too.
https://youtu.be/XiZ-XLxDFsM
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
What could I get outta those injectors with 38r? I don't really have a goal lol my injectors and stock turbo went out so I went bigger. Its mainly a weekend truck. I probably tow a few times a month with it. I'm not looking for anything crazy just a reliable truck that I can put my foot into every once in awhile
I tend to question statements like 'the injectors and turbo went out' - since that is a pretty rare failure. Also, it's less than $100 and under 30 mins to rebuild a stock turbo....
This cylinder had low compression. I didn't know any better at the time and pulled the head in the truck.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Backing up the bus a bit... you pulled the head... because you heard a knock. Might I suggest you stop pulling heads as the first step - there is rarely a problem in these engines that goes any deeper than a valve cover.
What was the compression before you pulled the head?
I've heard obnoxious knocks from air in fuel, air in oil, damaged injectors, and timing issues. Every time I thought my truck blew up, it turned out to be something I can fix without so much as touching a head bolt.
If you can't find an issue under there, what's the plan?
What was the compression before you pulled the head?
I've heard obnoxious knocks from air in fuel, air in oil, damaged injectors, and timing issues. Every time I thought my truck blew up, it turned out to be something I can fix without so much as touching a head bolt.
If you can't find an issue under there, what's the plan?
My friend did contribution test it came up as #8 fail but I have grey cps. Buzz test came back fine. I pulled each injector while running, it made no difference. (The injectors are new with 3k miles on them from swamps.) I located the noise to passenger side putting a rod on the exhaust manifold.
The push rods aren't bent.
I then made a thread on here to get some input. The thread got hijacked and I never got any answers.
I didn't know what else to do so I pulled the head to see what was going on. It might not have been the best decision but I didn't know what else to do.
