Here is a pick of my old lines the smaller one went to the passenger side front of head. The other went back around the fuel bowl to the driver side front of the head.
Both ports in the back were plugged...


I ordered stock steel ones from RR.

Thanks hotrod!

 

Rubber fuel lines on the engine are temporary and failure is eminent.

The FRx is designed for factory fuel system and requires the feed from stock filter to go to pass rear head and front of drivers-side head. The FRx lines go to pass-side front and drivers rear.

Get rid of the rubber hoses. If you don't have factory steel fuel lines - you don't need the CVD fittings either. Have ptfe lined SS braided hoses with JIC swivel ends made to go from filter to factory locations on heads. Then use JIC to 1/8" NPT adapters on heads and filter.

This is from one of my veggie conversions. I feed diesel to the front of the heads and WVO to the rear of the heads.



Here is how I do the rears:







I get these parts from Veggie Garage.

 

I probably have a few sets of factory steel lines here. I'll be happy to give you a set if you want them. PM me an address and I'll send a set out tomorow.

 

Well damn. I wish you woulda chimed in earlier lol I got some from RR should be here Friday.

What damage or problems would it cause having it the way he had it going to both front of the heads?

 

None. That is how I plumb all of my vegetable oil conversions. The engine/injectors don't care. (Btw, all of that #8 starvation stuff is silly nonsense)

 

I'm hoping to have the motor in the truck next weekend. I have been reading mixed reviews on break in periods. There's mixed reviews on oil change time and babying it vs using it normal.

I trust you guys.
What are your guys' suggestions?

 

run it and get the air out for 50 miles or so,check for leaks and ensure everything is running right,if all is good take it out and run it dont baby it if you can tow something with hook it up and drive it hard,as for the oil change, Brian from Bts told me change it at 2500 and then every 5000-6000 using a good synthetic,my 2 cents

 

Thanks! As far as initial start up I know to fill hpop reservoir. What else? I'm assuming it's not going to want to start for a little bit. Just keep turning it over in intervals?

 

Fill the reservoir if you want. It will fill pretty quickly on its own. The extra cranking time won't hurt anything and insures oil has made it everywhere before it fires. If you can watch ICP, you'll see it sit near 0 psi at first - then it will rapidly build and when it hits 500psi the engine will fire. Make sure the batteries have a FULL charge, you'll likely need it! If it's cold there, it won't hurt to plug the block heater in for awhile first. (make sure its full of coolant first!)

Expect it to run rough and miss a little until the air gets worked out of HPO system. I will pull trucks out of the shop shortly after they crank and let them idle up to operating temp before driving. Check fluids again, grab the phone and start making increasingly longer test drives - stopping often to look for leaks.

Driving easy for at least 1000 miles or so is a good policy. Change the oil and filter after about 2500 miles and then LET IT RIP!

If you decide to run full synthetic oil after break-in, I recommend doing used oil analysis after 5-6000 miles and see what they recommend for OCI. You can likely run at least 7500 miles on good oil with normal driving. Additional UOA's will help you dial that in for the best economy. Through UOA's, I've found that 5k miles is a good interval for 'regular' oil (Delo 400/Rotella T). It's a common misconception that synthetic oil is somehow better... It's not, but it does provide a longer OCI.

 

make sure all fluids are at the appropriate levels,oil, power steering,coolant, brake fluid,transmission fluid,and fuel,make sure you turn the key forward without cranking a few times to get the fuel bowl full,you will be able to hear the fuel pump going and then stop,turn the key back and cycle again,if you have a hard time starting when you do turn it over DO NOT use ether,once it starts let it chug and sputter on its own and it will smooth out,keep checking for leaks on top and underneath,monitor your gauges,when it smooths out step on the brakes make sure they are pressurized,cycle the trans,and then take a short ride pull over and recheck for leaks everywhere use a flashlight on the difficult to see places,go a few miles and re check fluid levels if all is good put the 50 miles or more on to purge the air at least

 

Good call! I tried to rep ya, but I gotta spread some love around first...

The pump will run for about 30secs if the engine doesn't start.

 

Thanks guys!! I'm hoping for everything goes smoothly.

 

I went to hook up my stock fuel lines and apparently the previous owner changed the fittings in the fuel bowl.
The fittings are too small to fit the stock lines.
Does anyone happen to know the size of the stock fittings? It's the 2 that feed the head on the fuel bowl.

 

Those fittings are 1/8" NPT to vibra-loc adapters. You also either need them or the CVD fittings for the heads.

I have a pile of each and will gladly drop a pair in the mail if you want them.

That is something I should have seen coming...

 

I was hoping to get them at the local auto store. I don't know if they will have them.I am wanting to get the engine in this weekend it's supposed to be 60 . I have the cvd fittings to the heads.

I will definitely take you up on that if they don't have them!! I appreciate it!